Fr. Buick

Note also that there is a slight difference at the mouth of the 4-brl aircleaners. On the '54, the panel around the mouth bulges out. On 55 and later, it curves in below the mouth, as if to avoid the upper radiator hose, I suppose. I discovered this only recently - never noticed before! And yes, they seem to invite dents.

Getting the pin out is always the worst part for me. Whatever is up, you are close to doing it. Try applying some heat and penetrating oil to the driveshaft...

My advice is to take it to a shop with good reputation. Ring and pinion gears are hard to find and expensive. If on-the-car adjustment, or new pinion bearings are needed, do it now before the gears are beyond use.

Fuel filter? Also check cap and rotor, points gap and timing.

And he wants over 500 for the job and would not sell any one-off pieces. So I kept looking for spare parts until I got one complete one to work... Others may no thave that option.

Specials did get factory AC in 1954, with the exception of wagons and convertables for obvious reasons, and the 2-dr sedans (model 48D) for marketing reasons.

Look in your service manual to be sure, but on my '54 there is an in-line fuse that powers the motor. It runs from the fuse block to the antenna switch. Since your failure was sudden and total, it makes me wonder about the fuse...

I found that on my '54 I also had to drop out the exhaust cross-pipe, which was a major job. But with the pan off, I found much the same junk on the pottom as you did, and I was glad I pulled it! This was on a well-running engine with 67K miles. It would not have lasted much longer with the junk it had in the oil pan! Happy wrenching!

Steering gear is mounted to the frame by 4 big bolts accessed around behind the front wheel. Loosen these first. There is a caged square-nut on the back end of each, so not necessary to fart with a wrench on the other side of each bolt. Here at least, Buick thought ahead. Under the dash, the steering column is mounted to the bash by a collar (Goes all the way around the column with a rubber ring inside to cushon the grip) and that in turn is bolted to the dash. Two bolts hold the collar to the steering column - leave those alone. Go for the two that actually bolt the collar to the dash. Loosen these and you should then be able to slide the column up and down. Tighten here, then back at the steering gear. You also may need to loosen the black hard-rubber seal where the column meets the firewall in the inside. A few screws at top and bottom might need to be redrilled due to the movement. Happy wrenching!

Were they ever made, factory experimental or aftermarket? I have heard and seen "D-port" heads from the Buick engineers, but that's it. Never aluminum...

The trick is to measure from side to side, in the middle. A comparatively lower temp in one spot or another would indicate a clogged tube. Comparing temps from top to bottom, perhaps at the tanks, would indicate how well the radiator is cooling over all. Top would be hotter, bottom cooler, so long as some of the tubes are flowing. A more modern cross-flow design would measure the opposite, mutatis mutandis as they say.

As said before, drive it! But bring some tools and a supply of fluids, and the following spare parts in the trunk for a road trip: --Radiator hoses ( I keep my old ones in the trunk as a back-up.); --Fan Belt (Same); --Good fuel pump or at least a rebuild kit; --Carb rebuild kit; --Regulator. Have the following with your neighbor, boxed and ready to ship at a moment's notice, if not in the trunk with the other stuff: --Water pump; --Generator. This is all stuff you WILL need eventually, so why not have it on hand now? Keep a AAA card current with the extra towing option, and perhaps the most recent BCA roster. If you get stuck, you can look up the locals who might be able to loan you a driveway and an extra hand, or recommend a mechanic. You can always find a mechanic quickly, you can not always find parts as fast, so bring along what you can. Take the US highways and enjoy the drive!

LTI is a great engine, I have one in a 96 Impala. Just be sure to keep an eye on the weep-hole at the bottom of the water pump. It drains right down onto the distributer and ruins it in a hurry. Otherwsie a great drive-train, engine especially.

I recently picked up a nice set of used wire wheels from Wheel Vintiques. One had a questionable silicone seal on it, so I took it to a local wire wheel shop - mostly motorcycle stuff - and had a new big, fat seal of silicone put in. Two weeks later, no leaks.

I just saw a part car for sale - a 50 Super 4-dr sedan, the one with the shorter wheelbase. Body looks straight. Anaheim, California, and the shop is anxious to have it gone... Call JT Barker at 909-991-5864 Sorry for your heart-ache, and hope this helps...

Not correct, all Roadmasters had the 4-brl. Never seen otherwise, and I have looked under a lot of '54 hoods.

I believe everything should be in a semi-flat black, aside from the radiator, which has a bit more gloss. Semi-flat: upper generator support, draft tube, rear power steering pump brace, air cleaner, radiator fan and shroud, inner fenders, battery tie-downs. You live in SoCal? Look up Larry Minery in the OC chapter of the BCA, he just finished a nice resto on a '55 Roadmaster. Happy wrenching!

From what I can tell, they are metalic wire.

I picked up a set on EBay a few years ago, and had a fight to get them... The box reads "Delco Packard," and the part number of "448-RB." According to the chart on the back of the box, this applies to Buicks '53-56, excluding the '53 40 series. The wires themselves, however, read "Packard 440-USA" Go figure. I have yet to try an install to confirm lengths...

If I recall correctly, there is an itty-bitty screw in the center of the time-setting nob. You will need a jeweler's screw-driver to get it out and remove the nob and the glass under it. Or try an eye-glasses repair screw driver.

Whose bright idea was it to dress a mechanic in white? Every time I wrench on a car, I get dirty. So I wear dark clothes, never white. Cool item, but just wondering...

There are four little "spider gears" in the center of the ring carrier. The top and bottom ones are to be removed along with the spacer between them. This exposes two "c" shaped washers that hold the axles in place. Remove these and the axles slide out. This is a lot of work just to pretty up brake plates. Which by the way, should be cad-plated silver. I would clean them up in place and do a better job down the road when it is time to play with axle bearings or other more serious rear-end work.

Thanks for sharing, that was great! I can remember those old film-strips and LPs when I was a kid in school. Thanks for posting!

Much thanks for looking that up, now I know I have what I need. Thank you!

Can someone double-check. I have an angle on a part, and want to be sure before I buy-- 1110861 - I am hoping it is correct for a '56. Very grateful for any help!