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Fr. Buick

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Everything posted by Fr. Buick

  1. My Pop picked up an early Nailhead the other day... Block # reads V7801345. It has been modified for hot-rodding - Ford frame mounts, aluminum flywheel and what I think is a big-series Buick clutch, a WCFB four-barrel with the Buick starter switch, and a cast pully on the front with no harmonic balancer. Any clue on what we have here? Grateful for any help, and happy wrenching! Doug Cook
  2. Thanks to all, I appreciate the help. I don't have my FSM with me, so had to rely on failing memory and friendly help... Wish me luck, and happy wrenching, Doug Cook
  3. I am looking over a '54 to buy, and the owner's mechanic informs me that the brake drums measure as follow: Front 12.153 Rear 12.163 Is that not a little high? Without my FSM in front of me, I seem to recall 12.120 as a max for turning the drums - or am I confusing iron drums with the later aluminum ones? The car is supposed to be a 30-40K original mile wonder. Drums don't lie, so what should the numbers tell me? Additional info: Compression on the engine is 85-90 psi. As well, the front bearings are after-market "Timken" brand and not the factor "New Departure." Comments appreciated, Doug Cook
  4. No, Lamar, I don't think I have seen the one in Reno. Reference, please? I am trying to keep an open mind, but would really prefer a Century. All the parts I have been squirling away for my Special will be of much better use that way. We will see this summer... Hard to say what car is going to finally talk to me and tell me she loves me... Doug Cook
  5. The are a very good car, you will be happy with the LT1 engine. In case you do not know, you should try asking on www.impallassforum.com as well. They are also helpful for parts and maintenance issues. Doug Cook
  6. Thanks much, guys. I found who I was looking for. If I pick up this car, I will report on what I found. I appreciate the help. I never would have thought to keep those old rosters!! Doug Cook
  7. I will be in Colorade Springs for the show and looking to buy a nice 66R or 76R. Does not have to be perfect, and the more original the better. I would love to hear from you ahead to time, if you have something to bring. It will go to a good home. Thanks! Doug Cook
  8. That's the one, Lamar, thank you. That info given by Barrett-Jackson is what I have to go on. The fellow who won the car in 07 is looking in his records for me as well... Any help appreciated, Doug Cook
  9. Does anyone have an old club roster to look up the following? Or do the Members in AZ know of this car? I am trying to research a light-blue '54 Century 66R (2dr hardtop)that was restored in Arizona in about 1989 and was kept in AZ until the owner passed. His kids sold the car at the Scottsdale Barrett-Jackson in 2007. Supposedly it spent it's first years in Texas. I am trying to get a better idea of the car's history before entering into "negotiations" and would love any help. Any info is much appreciated. Happy wrenching and thanks, Doug Cook
  10. Did all riviera-bodied cars come with the fancy chrome bows in the headliner for 1954? I am looking at a nice '54 Century rivi that has none, and that seems odd to me. The parts-numbers books are not clear. Any advice appreciated. Happy wrenching, and see you at the Nats, Doug Cook
  11. Thanks to all. This is very helpful. Any sources for replacement parts or rebuilding, especially the pump? Doug Cook
  12. Gentlemen: I am in the midst of pulling a complete factory air unit for eventual use on a '54 Buick. Does anyone out there have experience with these in the Cadillacs of that year? I assume the compressor and a few other pieces of the system are identical. Two questions, please: --Any recommendations on what to watch out for as I pull the unit out of the parts car? --Any recommendations on servicing the system: replacement parts sources and a rebuilder for the compressor? Grateful for any help, and happy wrenching, Doug Cook
  13. I know this is a little crazy, but I have deal set up to pull the air unit out of a '54 in Arizona. I have always been tempted to try this on my old Buick. And I love the scoops out back Two questions, please: --Any tips on pulling the unit? I will get to do the work myself, so I plan on taking my sweet time and getting every little piece and scrap of wire. --Any tips on refurbishing, such as rebuilding the compressor? I will be checking with the Caddy guys, assuming they use similar components. Anyone out there in Buick Land have experience with this stuff? Thanks in advance, and happy wrenching! Doug Cook
  14. I picked up a rebuild kit for my '54 from a Caddy parts house, but that was years ago and I don't have the catelogue in front of me to remind me of who it was. But start looking among the Caddy parts houses, and it should be easy to find. I doubt it works all that well even rebuilt, but I thought it would be fun to try - once the car is farther along. Happy wrenching, Doug Cook
  15. Good to know, Dave, thank you. I found it to be useful in locating a stock radiator for my '24 4-cyl, but will be careful with it in the future. Doug Cook
  16. I found this on EBay, auction #310120685446. Very useful info up to 1932. I have one already, so have at it!! Doug Cook
  17. I found reference to a '53 Roadmaster sedan with factory air at the following: 518-643-8839 or use postal mailing address: Rustic Auto Parts, 85 Conners Rd., Peru, NY 12972. I know nothing about the car, but noticed a referene to it in Old Cars Weekly. Hope that helps somebody, Doug Cook
  18. The wheel is fit quite tightly onto the steering shaft. You will need a steering wheel puller or a gear puller to do that without damaging anything. Something like this... http://www.toolsource.com/steering-wheel-puller-p-54814.html?osCsid=v8i4i9u2m7ir0be4ccopic3qq4 Good luck Doug Cook
  19. Modern gass should not be a problem for casual driving. The older engines have a lower compression, so octane is not a big deal, and for casual driving, the lack of lead for the valves is not a problem either. You should not need to ad anything to the fuel. I used the company below to rewire a '1950 Super sedan, and was happy with their product. www.riwire.com Good luck, Doug Cook
  20. I believe I saw it for sale out in California the first part of this year. I think it as at San Diego. It looked like it would be a great project!! Happy Wrenching, Doug Cook
  21. Sorry to hear of your troubles, Fred. Walzing in and taking things is shocking. Have the neighbors been agitating? A car nut lawwyer I know is Fred Chamberlen. He deals more with family law, but might be of help. He has had his own fights with neighbors and the city about cars and parts in the yard... His office number is 562-493-0054. Hope that gets you some help, Doug Cook
  22. Fluid would go both ways, I think, in the event of a leak. Oil woud get into the water when the car is running due to higher pressure in the trans. Water would get in the trans oil when the car is not running, since the radiator keeps some pressure as it cools down and the trans is not turning. All of which is not to scare you from using the stock one. At least having looked over my '54 and used the stock one for years and years, it seems like a very sturdy unit. And I have never heard of one fail. You can always have it tested at a radiator shop to be sure. Maybe the stock one is not so effective, though. My plans are to run the fluid through a long aluminum cooler first - the kind constructed from a single tube with inner and outer fins to take away excessive heat, and mounted inside and down the length of the left frame rail, which sould get enough air circulation while the car is under way. Then through the stock cooler to give it some temperature stability. The engine coolant may even warm it back up again in cooler conditions, but gives it some stability. As far as I understand it, you can be too cool, or too hot. The trans and the oil both like a constant temp in the middle, somewhere in the low 200's. Since the torq coverter does so much work on a Dynaflow, I think added cooling is a good idea, especially on long grades and bad traffic. Hopefully my plan will work... Happy wrenching, Doug Cook
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