Fr. Buick

Sorry, a correction... You have to remove the hose starting at where it bolts up to the hard line, then at the fuel pump.

Those rubber fuel lines are on EBay now and then. Are you sure it needs to be replaced? Looks fine in the piture... If so, disconnect by unscrewing at both ends, fule pump end first. As a temprary fix, you can carefully remove the old rubber from the brass fittings and use a length of regular fuel hosing from any parts store. Two small radiator-style clamps will hold it together fine. This line does not have to hold any pressure, so a simple fix like this will hold together fine until you get a proper replacement. One the fuel-level sending unit, you might be able to replace the brown backing material with a trip to a ood eletornics store. It is just that funky circuitboard stuff, which you can buy and cut to size. Perhaps the unit can be taken apart enough to replace the board. I have never tried it, but you might be surprised at how servicable the old electrical parts are on these cars - switches and relays and such. If there is a replacement for it, Bob's Automobilia woud likely have it. And there is always EBay, which has been indispensable in my work on a '54. Cool car! Happy wrenching Doug Cook

As far as I know, the only adjustment that can be made is to swing the assembly up or down slightly at the mount under the dash. A couple of bolts are there with some room to move up and down a bit. You have to loosen the gearbok at the frame as well. Crawl around under the dash, and you will see what I mean. TO shorten the column, or even lenghten it would be a massive undertaking... Better off playing with the seat position. Doug Cook

I don't have my roster at hand, but others may hvae his number - Fred Rawling in the Los Angeles area might have your part. Doug Cook

To give an idea of possibilities, look up Russ Martin on the internet. He has a websight for his repair shop, some neat nailhead info, and a feature on his "23 Buick roadster rod. I got to look it over carefully, and he did an outstanding job. He was also featured with his cars in the current issue of The Rodders Journal. If you rod it, PLEASE use a Buick motor!!! A Chevy 350/350 in a Buick would be such a waste of an opportunity to do something different. I vote for a nailhead, personally. Either way you go, framing the body will be a lot of work - wood or steel, but I think steel square tubing would be the easier. There should also be some cast iron brackets at critical points in the old woodwork. Missing those would be a major pain. Another issue that would push your decision would be the interior: Is there enough to recreate the stock look? Either way, have fun with it and keep it on the road, or at least part it out to guys who can use the stuff. Happy wrenching, Doug Cook

I was working on a '50 Super for a friend, and had the hardest time with the exhaust manifold leaking. I even tried the trick of using two gaskets, but these started leaking also in short order. The only fix was to find a machinist with a mill big enough to resurface that long manifold from end to end. Once that was done, it has held tight. Considering the age and length of these things, it is no wonder there is some distortion over time and so many heat-cycles. These things are hard to fuss with going on and off the car a bunch of times - just take it off and get it resurfaced. Happy wrenching, Doug Cook

The short and long answer is NONE. Nailheads have a unique bolt-pattern which limits your options. Remember too that there are two nailhead bolt-patters - the smaller one for the 264 and 322, and the larger one for 364, 401 and 425. And some issues on starter mount variations as well. An adapter is available, but that is for the 700R4, I believe. You can Google search and find it, I am sure. Doug Cook

The dist cap on the old 4-cyls are very hard to come by. You are best to attempt a repair, because a replacement is a once in a few years find. Doug Cook '54 Special '24 4-cyl roadster

1. What is your current daily driven car? Year 1996 Make Chevrolet Model Impala 2. How many miles do you commute per year? 25,000+ 3. What MPG do you currently get in your daily driver? 18-20 4. Have you ever owned a hybrid vehicle? No 5. If you answered NO for question 4, do you plan on purchasing a hybrid in the future? No. 6. If you answered NO for questions 4 and 5, please state the reason. I like horsepower. I can't work on a hybrid myself. And there is no long-term reliability like a big, fat V8. 7. If you answered NO for questions 4 and 5, would you be willing to purchase a diesel with equivalent gas mileage rather than a hybrid? No. You won't get a very "average" sampling of opinions here, but happy to oblige... Doug Cook

No, 'fraid not!! A Buick is not your run-of-the-mill Chevy, after all, with a ton of aftermarket reproduction parts. Best bet is the salvage yards in the dry western states, or repair what you have. I just pulled a good one out of an itty-bitty salvage yard near Casper, WY last summer for my '54 Special. It had 2 more '54s in it, Century wagons if I remember correctly, but you would have to get there and pull the tank yourself. Keep in mind also that the tank is different for the Super/Roadmonster versus the Century/Special models. Let me know if you want the info. I would have to go digging for it. Happy wrenching Doug Cook

OOPS, my bad. I thought the comp-controled went back that early... I bow to wiser heads. Doug Cook

Get on to the ImpalaSSForum.com and post your problem. Your trans is a 4L60E, the same as all other B-Bodies, including the Impala. Lots of info there. Doug Cook '96 Impala SS '54 Special under restoration '24 Buick roadster rod project (425 nailhead)

I don't remember the name of the guy, but he was a spry fellow in his 80's, and lived near my sister in Pineville-Matthews area, if that helps. A very big garage full of Packards, a Chrysler, a mid-50's Hudson and an original 40 or 41 Limited. Very nice guy. Lamar, that weekend is Palm Sunday. It might be tough getting away, but I will try, and certainly will let you konw. It would be fun to meet up. Thanks, guys!! Doug Cook

I forgot to mention that the mast seems to be the same on Cadilacs and Packards of the same erra (which is perhaps why Mr Klaus seems to expect such good money), though I imagine that the motor and housing assembly would likely be different. Those are fairly sturdy units, so I do not imagine you will have any problem there. Just clean it up, give some fresh lube, and test it. It is the mast and/or cord that fails first. Shoot me a private line if you want to talk '54, and happy wrenching. Doug Cook

While visiting my sister in Charlotte, NC, I bumped into a car guy with some old Packards. He mentioned a good-sized Spring swap meet that is held annually in that area, and I would like to see it on my next trip out. He gave me a few details, but I forgot it all, and can not find any references to it. Can someone clue me in? Much thanks, Doug Cook '96 Impala SS '54 Special under restoration '24 Buick roadster rod project (425 nailhead)

The masts are different between power and manual. The powered mast is thicker to make room for the nylon cord, and quite a bit taller for unknown reason. You could take the cord out of the power unit to make it a manual, but could not rig a manual onto a power unit. The only thing that interchanges is the black blastic fitting and chrome fastener that sit atop the fender at the base of the mast. There is a guy in Florida named Klaus Woyjak (or something similar) who has the mast and cord reproduced and advertises in Hemmings as a rebuilding service for these units. Brace yourself, he is very expensive. I hit a lot of salvage yards before getting good pieces to finally put a working unit together and avoided his prices. But that took a few years. Happy wrenching Doug Cook '96 Impala SS '54 Special under restoration '24 Buick roadster rod project (425 nailhead)

I believe it will work. The only difference that I am aware of between the 64 and the 65-66 trans is in the valve body, front pump assembly and torque converter. The flex plate should not be a problem. Try the buick nailhead group on Yahoo to confirm. Doug Cook

For some reason, the '64 turbo 400 in Buicks did not get the switch-pitch. It came a year later in '65. There is a great book that gives all the details on this - "How to Work with and Modify the Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 Transmission" by Ron Sessions. Call Classic Motorbooks at 800-826-6600. Happy wrenching, Doug Cook

In the days of less than great brakes, Buick was known for having some of the worst, and things did not improve until '58 when they lept ahead to aluminum brums. And steering in those days was more like directing a bunch fo sheep down a road. A simple option would be to find a '55 Roadmaster and swap it's brake assemblies onto yours, including backing plates, drums, shoes, etc. The heavier cars had bigger brakes both front and rear, and would be an improvement on your Special. Others have even gone farther and adapted the later finned aluminum drums (1958 and later) onto stock hubs, and that is my plan for a '54 Special I am working on. I first saw it done on a '53 Super Woodie in the Los Angeles area some years ago, and thought it a brilliant idea. Have you gotten down to adjust yours yet? That makes a big difference. As to steering, the suspension is quite solid and not too prone to wear. Rod ends and idler arm, and an adjustment of the gear box would be a very good place to start. The center link - if similar to '54, as I recall - has a series of springs in it that might need adjusting or replacing. Try that and see if you can live with the results. Keep in mind that you have to drive these older cars differently than we are used to now, but that is part of the fun. Happy wrenching, Doug Cook

I had the chance to see the SEMA gathering in Las Vegas, and just got back home last night. An amazing event. Ford had a big and very catchy display - edgy if not a little obnoxious, and nothing I would buy. So then I go looking for GM. Big but ho-hum, and absolutely nothing, NOTHING from Buick. Just a sign, and not a car to be seen. Is there any hope for Buick's future? Was there not even an old Wildcat or a tricked-out 455 Skylark to put out there? How come early Rivis are all over the car shows lately, and nothing here? How about a lowered and blown Roadmaster wagon from 1995 or so? Maybe a new Lacross with a custom interior? Anything at all? Maybe this is the wrong venue for Buick, but I find that assumption troubling and an easy out. Please excuse my French, but what the h*//? A sign of things to come, I can only guess. It's like Buick's funeral is being planned years ahead. Doug Cook

Russ Martin is in Fremont, CA, and really knows his nailheads. He has not done any work for me, but has been great to deal with for parts I got from him, and really suports the nailheaders out there with help and advice. You can reach him at his shop, Centerville Auto at 510-794-7055. Beware of a chevy builder touching a nailhead... Doug Cook

Try Pearsons Auto Salvage in Pearsonville, CA, on Hwy 395 north of Ridgecrest. Good luck, Doug Cook

You might try motorcycle chain oil in a spray can. It goes on thin to penitrate, and gets thick and tacky very quickly so as not to fly around. Not on the felt above the rockers, mind you, but on the rockers themselves. A friend uses it on exposed valve-train on a '12 Reo with good results. Happy wrenching, Doug Cook 1996 Impala SS 1954 Special under restoration 1924 Buick 4-cyl roadster rod project (425 nailhead)

FAX will be sent, happy to help. Doug Cook '96 Impala SS DGGM '54 Special under restoration '24 Buick 4-cyl roadster rod project (425 nailhead0

First rule is to avoid the Interstates, if time allows. You will find a lot more interesting yards on the older US Highways. Second rule is a handy book called "Ray's Wreckingyard [sic] Roster" by Ray and Ruth Harvey, and published by Impact Information Services in Cheyenne, WY. It has a state-by-state listing with a brief description of each yard. Somewhat outdated, as some yards have closed altogether or crushed the old stuff. But still a very good start, and I never take a road trip without it. That and asking the locals - body shops, towing services, mechanics, and the older folks at the lunch counter. If time short, I can get the appropriate states to you by FAX. PM me at fr.dcook@rcbo.org before Friday 2:00, or reply here and I will check in over the weekend. Happy trails, Doug Cook