Fr. Buick

Try the local chapters of the Buick Club...

The unit is a '56, which is a single-motor unit, 6-way, and with aluminum seat skirts. If the mounting plates are 58.5 inches across, from outer edge to outer edge, it came out of a 50-70 series car. From what I can tell, it can be adapted to the 54 and 55 cars.

You will do fine with any "standard" 40 or 60 series suspension parts. There should be no welding on those parts... If you order from Kanter, check quickly and make sure they are correct. Some years ago, I got miss-matched parts...

Thanks, all!

Please explain anaerobic sealer?

Did you remove the springs? These should go in last. It will give you a lot more play to get things lined up.

I have my '54 Super apart, and for the sake of being thorough would like to balance the drive-shaft. The shops I have asked at say they can't balance it without a modern universal joint. (The factory joint relies on the brass sleeve in the torque-ball to keep things in line.) Does anyone have a trick they can share, or a shop in the area of Southern California who can do this for me? Grateful for any help,

Check the run-out on your flex plate. If it has a bad wobble in it, it will put stress and wear on those parts.

It also allowed for the use of coil springs on the rear and thus a smoother ride.

No, the dowel just helps stabilize everything, so that the brass bushing and torque-ball find their way onto the U-joint. Just line everything in order onto the dowel, and it works. New bushings can be had from Bob's Automobilia, IIRC.

I was just farting with the same thing on my '54. Buy a length of round wood or piping that will fit into the hollow end on the rear of your U-joint, as large dia as will fit. 1 inch worked perfectly for me. Regardless, you need one of these to be able to adjust the tightness of the ball according to your shop manual. Apply the necessary gaskets to the inner retainer. Line up your torque-pall and outer retainer onto the wooden dowel, insert down into the U-joint, and everything will slide together nicely. By the way, using two screw-in studs on the top two bolt holes makes assembly MUCH easier as well.

Since the windshield posts and radiator shell look to be painted and not nickel plated, I say it's a 4-cylinder.

Congratulations for your daughter!!!

Hurray!! I've been driving nailheads since high school, love 'em! It would be hard to do this for the 264, but come April we can celebrate the 425...

I saw a '55 Special with what looked like a very good radiator at Hidden Velley Salvage in Casa Grande, AZ.

I may have something, but I will not ship. If you can come to SoCal, give me a PM and a part number from the top tank. Sorry to hear or trouble, I have gotten a strange feeling from said person.

I just knew I would get a wise answer! The thing is in beautiful shape, the seller had no idea what it is for, and I snagged it for 80 bucks... It's always to your advantage at a swap when the seller asks YOU for information on his parts. Play stupid, and bid low! Visibly, I see no differences, and extra umph is always welcome on a big old Buick. I'll check hight differences - I never thought of that possibility, but it explains why my '55 aircleaner is a good bit high off the front mount on the thermostat housing. Lamar, you the man!

The small cylinder behind the glove box latch is for a small light bulb. The owners manual will tell you what size. Be sure it is adjusted so the light goes out as the door is closed!!

I was at the Trulock swap meet, and stumbled on a very nice rebuilt '55 Carter WCFB, and grabed it for a song. The number tag reads 2197S. It looks identical to the one on my '54, a 2082S, and I want to keep it as a spare. Does anybody know the differences? Thanks for any help!

I have done business with them a bunch, and they have always been helpful with great products.

Agreed!!! One little project at a time, especially on your first old car...

My prayers, Pete!

You might take a lenght of wood to wedge between the frame and the underside of the compressor, as a precaution. Yes, the '55 is heavy, and the '53-54 even more so! I would be cautious of JB Weld. A local body shop - or a friend in the hobby with a mig welder - could zap it into place much more securely. Anybody nearby with a welder to help a guy out?

Two that come to mind that I use frequently... If you see something of an unusual size, you say loudly, "Wow, look at that. It's big as a Buick!" Of in response to something bright and new, "Wow, it shines like a '58 Buick!"

Painted is not correct. Silver cad is how it should be. Or to be cheep and quick, blast it clean and semi-gloss clear coat it.