Fr. Buick

Looking for 4 usable pins/bolts to hang the front springs on a '26 Standard. Size is 3.5 long, 9/16 dia and 18 thread. Interchanges with the following: --1924 4-cylinder --1925-26 Standard --1927 series 115 --1928 series 115 and 1929 series 116, upper only. Group number 7.428, part number 44459. Does anyone have experience in a source for the corresponding bronze bushings in the springs and frame? Grateful for any help! Doug seven one four - 488 - one six six four.

A lot of originality to that car...

That's what it is, Lamar! Good eye! a '24 4-cylinder model.

I find these carbs go dry quickly from heat and time. If I put it away hot and let it sit for over a week, it will take a while to get fuel to the engine and fire up. And if the fuel pump is a little iffy, it would compound the problem.

Role down a window and climb out...

I agree with the advice of driving and getting the car sorted out and the driver confident. Your BCA roster is also good to take with you, just in case you need a friendly hand or some local expertise...

All cars are different, but on both my '54 and a more modern Impala - If you cant reach from above the fender, look through the wheel well and there may be enough room and visibility between frame and inner fender to get at it. Failing that, go from underneath. For lifting the engine, use a floor jack with a piece of two-by-four and lift at the flat spot on the oil pan. TO reinstall, use a tapered punch to line up the bolt holes as the engine comes down off the jack.

350 sounds way too low. Was that the idle needed to set the timing? You know, super low so as to not get any advance from the weights? Relying on memory, my '54 book calls for 450 rpm and the engine seems very happy there, even with the AC on. Are you sure valvetrain is all working? Pull the valve covers and be sure everything is getting some oil and moving properly.

Try the Impala SS forum...

Looks very fun, and a lot of hard work in preparation. Thanks Brian, Mr. Bulgari and all. Hope to hell I can come!

Has the thrust pad, trans and engine mounts been replaced?

"How high's the rising, Momma?" "Three feet high and rising." Johnny Cash covers all occasions. Keep it high and dry! Glad all is OK...

My understanding is that pumps tend to push better then they pull. So, the closer to the tank, the better. A good second would be along the frame rail, where siphon helps feed the pump. Up near the engine is a bad idea. Also be sure that the pressure is not too high for your carb. Look in your service manual to see what the mechanical pump would produce - that is what you need from a modern unit, plus maybe a smidge higher for distance traveled.

Stick with bias-ply, and call Lukas Tire in Long Beach, CA. Get General brand if you can.

Wow, a lot of impressive work. But that lower mount for the compressor makes me nervous. Can you bend the bar closer to the block so there is less stress on where the support screws into the side of the block?

Ah, yes, power steering!! Makes a big difference on a heavy car, especially one with AC!!

Could you give us some general dimensions when that tool comes in? It looks simple enough, and I would love to fabricate a set. Thanks in advance...

Your service manual should tell you how much fluid to add after a rebuild. Then start her up, let the front pump fill the converter, and add more from there.

And the BCA Roster in case you need some local help.

Way to go!! Get it driving and have fun. Do not dig to far. With such an original car, the less the better.

I believe the aluminum drums were identical up to '65. I did this job on a '54 Super recently, with Roadmaster front plates and shoes, so some advice... Other parts needed are: --Longer front wheel bolts ('57 and later), because the aluminum drum center is thicker. Your '55 bolts are NOT long enough. You see these on Ebay now and then. Be sure they are off the front, not the rear. --4 button-headed bolts, 2 longer threaded guide pins (I had a few extras machined and available...) and flange-nuts. These replace the guide pins and rivets holding the original drum to the original hub. Clearance is important here or it could foul up how the wheel mounts. Work involved is as follows: --Remove all four drums from their respective hubs by grinding down the rivet heads and guide pins, and pounding out these or any lug studs. Be sure to support the hub when pounding, or you may crack the drum. --Widen the 5 lug holes on each aluminum drum to better fit the wider wheel bolts. --Attach your '55 hub to the new drum using wheel bolts to properly index the parts, then install the guide pins and button head bolts in their proper holes and tighten well. Grind down excess thread length inside the drum, and strike the nuts with a punch. --Take both drum and hub assemblies to a brake shop for a light turning, just to be sure all is good and round. --Reassemble brakes, then drive it like you stole it. --Keep the shoes well-adjusted, per FSM, often and frequently.

I did the carb swap on my '54 Super, and noticed the difference. A Carter 2brl to a Carter 4brl. Now it also got some engine work and a tune-up, so this is not a scientific comparison. Off the line, I tend to go slow and easy just to be nice to the Dynaflow, so I won't guess how it is off the line. But going up a grade or accelerating onto the freeway, or making a pass, I feel a stronger pull. I just love the feel of the secondaries opening up!

Forget about disks, and think about adapting '58 and later aluminum drums onto your original assemblies. No need to mess with brake lines or master cylinder. It is a simple mod, and I had guide pins machined to make it work. PM me if interested.

Amen on the PS. I rebuilt a PS unit from Lamar's Buick Gardens and installed it on me Super. Wow, what a difference on a heavy Super!!

Here, here! Great car, and two great guys. Thanks Lamar, and thank you Bob!!!