Fr. Buick

Yes, but the torque converter will be a bit different, I think, to optimize the performance of a smaller or larger engine. It would "bolt in" though. If it is a runner, bolt it in and run it, and use the time to rebuild your original...

Took my '54 Super to Sand Diego area to visit a Navy friend in town from Okinawa - him and his Buicks! It was almost hot enough to need the Frigidaire AC!

That continental adaption on the 55 is cool!!

I agree, it is a good trans for cruising. Climbing grades or pulling a trailer will create heat, so changing the oil and cleaning the pan regularly is a good idea. Problems with reverse will often be solved by a new thrust pad and engine/trans mounts. I've driven them over 80k miles over 30 years. Don't abuse it, and enjoy the uniqueness and smooth, quiet surge.

80 degrees today, and I took the '54 Super for some running around. Baby and I like the warmer weather....

I've seen and heard the car in person, and it is impressive.

Keep in mind that the steering pump pulley for an AC car is unique. It is dished out to sit farther forward than a non-AC car. It runs off the forward-most of the three fan belts. The pump is identical, but the pulley is unique - and hard to find...

Congratulations!!

I found this Defroster Motor at a swapmeet thinking it might work for my '54, but it's the wrong size motor. Motor runs smooth and quiet. Motor stands 4 and 3/4 height, 3 and 1/4 wide. Some very light rust on motor and cage, but factory paint markings can still be seen. Available in So Cal, or I can ship. $50 please. If you want pictures, send me a PM with your phone number.

I agree. Borrow or rent a truck, and get it yourself. If you are wise, make a deal on some extra parts off the car to take home as well while you are at it. Nothing like doing it yourself.

I’m loosing storage and need to simplify my car projects, so here goes… Parting out a 1954 Buick Special 2-Dr Sedan, model 48D. Southern CA car all its life. Engine and Dynaflow ran when removed, but tired. Good rear gears. Chrome is well-preserved. In particular: --super nice banjo-style wheel with black plastic and no cracks; --NOS and also good used rear bumper guards; --very nice hood ornament. Can you trade me for a 50/70? Big and heavy stuff will not be shipped, but I might consider making a delivery within 300 miles of Orange, CA. PM me for requests, and give me a phone number where I can send pics. Thanks! Doug

Agreed, a puller is the way to go. You will use bolts inside the three slotted holes on the center of the wheel. To get the head of the bolt in, I had to grind down a few of the hex corners. Also to protect the horn wire, if it is still there, cover it with an old socket that will fit over the steering shaft, and onto the steering wheel nut which you back off a quarter inch from the wheel center. This way, the center shaft of the puller will be pressing on the nut, and not on the center of the steering shaft.

I believe a little bit of play between the pin and the bushing is normal. Once it is threaded in to both sides of the A-arm, it is tight for what it needs to do. Be Very Sure the big bushing is torqued in per factory specs. I have seen a bushing that got loose and wondered around and ruined the knuckle support...

The metal-backed lamps for my '54 have been fun. One piece at a time, as Johnny Cash used to sing...

Doesn't everybody pray under the hood?

Scared the hell out of me the first time I discovered that fact... A generous dose of sealer, and in it goes.

I'm all for basket cases being kept on the road by whatever means, but that had to have been such a restorable car...

For the diff oil, use an old-fashioned dinosaur oil with the viscosity recommended in your shop manual. Pull off the cover, clean the bottom of the housing out well, and seal it up using sealant on the bolt threads. One trick to do before you drain it: pull the fill plug, and if fluid comes out, you have an issue of trans fluid finding its way in, and this can cause expensive problems for your diff. Or if you see any red color in the diff oil, same problem. The seal at the front of the torque-tube is bad, and allows ATF into the tube, and down into the diff, diluting the thicker oil and ruining a good ring and pinion. Not good. Yes, use zinc in your engine oil. It keeps the cam happy. Forget about lead in the gas. It does not bother Buick engines for several reasons: smaller valves, low spring pressure, slower revs, better metal in the block and heads. If you ever rebuild, do not let anyone tell you that you need hardened valve seats. For motor mounts, but a jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood to distribute the weight across the width of the pan. Pull the generator and front tires for easier access to the mounts. Undo the bolts and nuts on the mounts, and jack the engine up enough to swap in new mounts. Use a screw driver or large drift/punch to align the holes as the engine comes down, so as to make sure everything lines up again. DO NOT forget to replace trans mount and thrust pad as well. It makes a big difference in how the car behaves. If the engine mounts are bad, so are the thrust pad and trans mount. Have fun!!

Be sure you join the Orange County Chapter of the Buick Club. We have a few guys with early Rivieras. Christmas party at my place in Orange on Dec. 6th. PM me if you would like to come... Congratulations!

'53 was the first year for AC on a Buick. I have only seen one - at a swap meet in Turlock, central California, and the owner was nowhere to be seen. The piece looks to be older than that, just my guess. Very nice piece!!

SEMA is a fun time, and that's all I'm saying...

If somebody needs a go-look-see, let me know... I'm in the area.

I vote for replacing the coil. My '54 acted like it was starving for fuel a couple times, each instance getting worse until it finally went caput. Nice car, BTW!!

I'm in need of a frame and any chassis parts for a '23 six-cylinder, 40 or 50 series. Even a parts car. Anything out West, I'll come and get. Thank you!

Are they getting good contact? The wires seem a little flimsy. You might try a jumper wire. I have never take one apart. You might try to see what is inside. It may just be a matter of cleaning things up...