old-tank

Put a mailing label over the light with bold letters: "DO NOT EXCEED 6000 RPM"

Ahem, that's DRIVEN Gold/Senior Award...

Longview TX 85* and 90% humidity...never thought I would call that cool, but compared to the oven we left it is a welcome relief. No issues other than feeding the beast. Tomorrow 5 hours to home. Willie

The only self adjuster is "I adjusted it myself".

X2...one class act!

James You worry too much . The Texas Road Warriors rolled through Birmingham Alabama this afternoon (104*). My 55 with factory air on high was running 210* (I have a gauge with real numbers since the factory gauge is pegged hot at only 200*...with proper pressure cap you can run 230*+ without boil over) I finally got tired of driving with white knuckles watching a pegged gauge, Willie

It is finally a little cooler in Tuscaloosa AL after a brief rain (470 miles). Found some 2.86 gas in South Carolina...dang that was some sorry stuff; vapor lock even with the electric fuel pump at 65 mph. Fresh fuel after 120 miles solved the problem. (I need that iphone app... and an iphone and...) Willie

Change the oil every 2 years or 3000 to 5000 miles and drive it at least 10 miles if you start it and you will never see the inside of that pan again. Also use a 180* thermostat. If you only start and let it idle or have a short drive then change oil twice a year and clean the pan every 5 years. Willie

Well done buddy!

It certainly does include Bob. It was a pleasure to meet both of you and again congrats on the DRIVEN Gold Senior! Time to head west where it is cooler. Willie

471413 National Seal should be the one for the pitman shaft. Look up the specs on that seal and compare to your shaft and housing. Willie

For an auto water pump to work the whole system has to be full of coolant. They will not work as a bilge pump to pump out of a pan or pump the block dry. Change the water pump --- it does not look that hard from your pictures.

Joe If no one else responds, I can have that info in about 5 days...just keep bumping to the top, Willie

Paul I have never had any problem with corrosion or foreign material in the system. The filter drier you will install in the liquid line should catch anything that gets loose. There is also a screen in the compressor on the return side. A leak would be the only reason to remove it. My discussions with Classic left me with the impression they did not understand the system and were all about modifying it...for a price. I can give you guidance to fix it yourself. Willie

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/low-tech-tips-mid-50s-buicks-301055.html Also on my website. Willie

5 pounds. I just fill just to the point that the sight glass shows liquid only; one of my references says to add 1/2 pound after that point; it seems to blow more oil out the front seal when I did that. If you have not serviced the compressor by replacing the seal and O-rings, I advise that you consider it. Those old rubber parts are crumbly and will soon leak. Willie

Missed a turn and ended up in Fayetteville, NC...actually detoured to see friends. Tranny was a little low again; added some STP this time. Will pull my torque tube plug to see if that is where it is going. Looking at late morning for arrival. I talked to Lamar and he should be bringing a generator. Willie

I can't help with A or B but the line coming from the front of the transmission is the out line and the line at the rear is the return line. If you don't have dual exhaust you can mount a small fan powered tranny cooler in between the left side frame and the X brace of the frame. Mine was brand name Derale, but specifics will have to wait a week since I am now playing in the streets... Willie

Paul You need to remove the rear compressor bracket to get the spark cover off...no other way. The stud should be 5/16-24 (I think) with a domed 5/8 nut. Pictures later if needed. Just be glad you have the spark covers...we'll find the nuts. Willie

Le'see here if I got this right: Spam for breakfast, 'shine for lunch...I don't think my liver can stand it...and for dinner? Willie

Another 450 miles to Lagrange, GA and cool 80*, but still a lot of hot driving. The only issue was this morning when the transmission was chattering on acceleration. Checked the fluid and it was marginally low, but not low enough to cause problems; added a little and let it idle until warm and so far has been behaving. You didn't think I was going to turn around did you? Gas mileage is down after losing my tail wind and the added hills. Nothing like sitting behind that big ol' steering wheel and letting stroke on down the road. Willie

Only 450 miles to the east side of Baton Rouge. 102*...just as hot as home or northern LA. ]Surprisingly the AC is handling it well (insulation does wonders),-. At the first pit stop the generator was not charging until I revved it up, so I thought it fixed itself (yeah right...); anyhow it was completely dead at the lunch stop. Why do I always change the voltage regulator first?...it NEVER solves a problem. Changing to my grubby old backup generator solved the problem. The generator that I just had rebuilt lasted exactly 200 miles. Time to send a nasty-gram! Driving east we had a northwest wind so the 17mpg was welcome. Somewhere in GA tomorrow. Willie

Leaving soon today. East on I-10 to avoid some of the heat, but might get to meet Debby... we'll see. Later, Willie

Now that you are back showing off the car, are you going to tell us where the leak was?

(call a local tractor dealer...or truck...or heavy equipment... to see where they get radiators repaired)