old-tank

yes, the smallest wire/terminal. The one to the starter with the strap will spin the starter only.

Jerry the solenoid wire/terminal is the smallest on the back of the solenoid. If you inadvertently jumped 6v to the terminal closest to the starter if will spin the starter only. If actually jumping to the small solenoid terminal only spins the starter then the solenoid or starter is defective. Willie

Let the older people sit and ride just so they can reminisce. Let the kids touch, sit and ride because they are the ones that will buy that car when you cannot drive. I have never sat or ridden in a model-T although I have asked at many car show and tours (just wanted to see how the pedals worked). One old grouch finally sold his car, not to a collector, but to a rodder who used the shell for a 'project'. Willie

If only that cable gets hot, the cable is undersized or defective from internal corrosion. Heavily painted brackets mounted to heavily painted engines are not a good ground source. Ground to a starter mounting bolt as a test.

John It doesn't matter where you drill the hole. That patch of solder on the side is covering a hole the factory used for the same purpose. I was thinking you could drill another hole at that location and just re-flow the solder to seal. Test for leaks by submerging the repaired float ( or any other questionable float ) in warm (not hot) water and look for bubbles. Keep in mind that the float will ride higher in our ethanol laced fuels and the level may need to be lowered if symptoms of fuel starvation are encountered. ( the tank float behaves the same way: all of my 55's now have a 'lying' gas gauge --- there is less gas than indicated:eek: ). Willie

John Looking at 2 spare floats they appear to be identical, and are yours for the asking. If you do decide to repair the leaking one drill a small hole into the patch on the side, repair the defect with your method of choice, then close the hole quickly with a soldering iron. If you repair the defect without drilling a hole, it will be a prune when it cools.:eek: Willie

To rotate a non-stuck engine remove the lower flywheel cover and use a large screwdriver between the block and ring gear to rotate. This will also give the most leverage to unstick an engine...much better than using the bolt at the harmonic balancer. In order for a dynaflow to turn the engine you need a functioning dynaflow and need to tow or push at least 15 mph in L. Willie

Sheesh! It is amazing how many people think that Jay Leno's CUSTOM CAR is the standard for all 55 Buicks. Like the guy that had his very nice Century convertible painted like the Leno car and complained because there was a mandatory deduction for non-authentic color of paint when judged. Willie

Be sure all connections and grounds are good. Check that any terminals/connections are not getting hot indicating resistance (careful!). I have never checked the voltages on my 55 (12v) but the top moves much better with the engine running at fast idle.

Joe The bushings are split on the side and it appears that on the originals the split was installed toward the back. If the bushings are made by Steele Rubber, they will be the correct hardness. Those sent to me by those obnoxious New Jersey boys were way too soft. Willie

All I need is a porch big enough for my rocking chair and a view to watch everyone work. "Work fascinates me...I can sit around and watch it all day". Willie

I pride myself on being an equal opportunity corn fuser...can't wait for Jerry's next post to see how misguided he is now:D. Jumping the solenoid establishes that the starter and solenoid works or not. Then we move on to other parts in the system that could be defective: starter vacuum switch, starter relay, voltage regulator, generator... Willie

OK, this is good detail on the carb switch, however the starter relay could still be bad. To jump the solenoid look at it and you will see 2 connections: one is large with a battery cable attached, the other is smaller and is the signal for everything to work....that is where you jump 6v. This will activate the starter whether the key is on or not. (another jumper to the coil and you have just "hot wired" your first car.) This technique bypasses your neutral safety switch, so be sure it is in N or P or you will be chasing a car.:eek: Willie

2 1/2" whitewall is correct.

1955 Buick 50-70 series is a direct fit. 40-60 series trannys are shorter but internal components that you need are the same. 1956 trannys are all the same length as 1955 50-70, but there may be differences in the rear mount, stator control, and for sure you will need a 55 universal joint since the spines of the driveshafts are different. Willie

Mud Mike is traveling today, so he asked me to upload the 2 pictures of his original piston; also I uploaded a picture of one of the low compression pistons EGGE sent to me. I saw the pistons yesterday and they look like yours except for the name. I am certain that yours are original to your engine. I have seen some replacement pistons in 322's and none had 'Buick' or a part/casting number. Willie

That vulcanized outer torque ball retainer was designed to not use shims. Looking in a 58 Buick book it shows and describes only a gasket where the shims on the previous metal-metal outer torque ball retainer are used. I install mine that way, leave loose until the torque tube is installed then tighten. The rubber on the outer torque ball retainer will take a 'set' after being compressed and will function as designed. When I trailer one of mine I tie down at the lower control arms and the rear axle --- that serves to pull the torque ball back into the outer torque ball retainer and I will have a brief leak until the rubber 'recovers'. Willie

Jerry will it start if you jump 6v to the solenoid or that terminal at the starter relay? An answer to that question will help narrow it down. Willie

When I had my newly restored convertible appraised for insurance I had the Director of our local BCA chapter supply a signed statement the he had personally inspected the car, determined that it was in number one condition, and according to _____ price value guide it should be worth $xx,xxxx.xx. I also modified a form like THIS, which I filled out myself and had him sign. It was good enough for JCTaylor and did not cost anything. Willie

Ben is right, lube it first, if not with graphite, use Lubriplate grease. The wiper control can be removed by pulling straight out on the wiper switch arm...you may have to gently pry with a tape wrapped screwdriver. Then make a tool from tubing to remove the nut. There are 2 vacuum lines attached and the cable. Willie

Rick Those that I have changed were with NOS pieces--->rare and hard to find; others may have a better solution. Willie

Robert Go get your car! As far as getting someone to work on old cars there are two mentalities: one, they don't want it in their shop disassembled and waiting on parts (justifiable); two, they think that since it is old you don't deserve the same commitment as the local plumber's work truck. Vehicles that sit at a shop get damaged and parts go missing. I once had a dynaflow at shop for 2 months and when I finally got pissed enough to go get it I found it on the scrap pile in pieces. If they already have an "attitude" over the first inquiry in a week, then they should not be the ones to work on it. Willie

Will The lip of the seal always goes toward what you are sealing, in this case to the front. Check the sleeve that the seal rides on to be sure there are no big grooves or your new seal will soon fail. Willie

The posted diagram is too simplistic and confusing since the important starter relay is not included. The wiring diagrams in the link explains what I have been thinking about. If terminal 1 on the alternator provides a ground when not charging and 12v when it is, then the mystery is solved without a relay. The only way to know for sure is to put it together and try it. Willie

Will You did not mention the panhard bar...that needs to be removed also. Sometimes you have to loosen the bolts that hold th outer torque ball retainer. With the car on sturdy jack stands, support the rear with a floor jack so that it is not just hanging and binding in the X part of the frame. If you pull, pull from the frame at the rear of the car, not the bumper of a truck parked behind (you can pull it off the jack stands). I use an old bumper jack to push: wrap a short section of chain around the front of the torque tube where the strut rods attach and attach the bumper hook to that; the other(lower end) is placed in the pocket of the X frame (without the base plate). The whole rear will not roll out with the tires on...roll on the brake drums or just bare rims. You may have to have something to roll on. Think and plan ahead for an hour for every minute you actually do something and you will get it. Good luck -- Willie