Jump to content

old-tank

Members
  • Posts

    7,797
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Everything posted by old-tank

  1. 140-155 for the 264 and 155-170 for the 322. My 322 has 120 due to the only available low compression pistons and that is probably what you will get in the $5000 engine. I would not worry about numbers as long as it runs good...and run is what it probably needs. Drive it like you stole it and then recheck. If you do put in the 322 be sure to use a 322 harmonic balancer AND flywheel/flexplate since they are not interchangeable between the two engines. Willie
  2. Todd It's easy to make a bowl gasket, just be sure to save the bushings in the old gasket. I make mine from leather (preferred) or cork-rubber gasket material. The bowl or reservoir will probably be bent from pulling on it to tighten the belt (that will be your first metal working assignment). If the power steering unit leaks it is usually internal where the hydraulic section leaks into the gear section (there will be transmission fluid mixed with gear oil coming out of the filler). The generic replacement hoses will be functional, but the performance will not be ideal. The pressure hose needs the restriction built into the original (different size hoses joined) otherwise the system will be noisy. A local NAPA parts store that makes hoses and with a good (and patient) counterman made duplicates that function well and were cheaper. See my website for other power steering details. Willie
  3. Sounds like a dying battery or maybe short in the headlight circuit. What was the ampmeter showing? Would the car still crank after this?
  4. Todd You have been introduced to most of the enablers on this board, so you have no chance to avoid or kick this addiction. First we try to make them dependable, fun and safe to drive then restore...that is the part that gets you hooked. The leak at the rear wheel is probably a wheel cylinder, but could also be rear end lubricant or even transmission fluid that got there, all of which is a straight forward fix. Always try to find parts locally first, as an example parts like wheel cylinders are available from NAPA that are cheaper, better warranty and in your hand sooner. Sometimes the counter man will tell you they are not listed, but check back here and we will supply part numbers. Rockauto is also a good resource: even if you don't buy, they have part numbers that can be cross referenced. Willie
  5. not necessarily in those days. Fill with ATF as noted or p/s fluid. Willie
  6. Thoughts? Drive it as is for a while and you will learn to make the steering work for you instead of fighting it with brute force. Remember that these cars were driven by people of all statures. Our first car was a 55 Special with manual steering. There were no shopping centers; if you went to town to shop you had to parallel park. My wife could park it better and faster than me since she did not like to walk. Willie
  7. Pump up the tires to max inflation, new bias ply tires with tall tread will improve steering effort, any radial will make it worse. What you have is what I called 'armstrong' steering;). Willie
  8. As payment I will require a ride in the finished product. Willie
  9. Although there are lots of clip there are only 6-7 different ones. Let me know what model you have and I will scan a page that shows what you need. It also helps to have remnants of the original clips. Willie
  10. Robert Since this thread is now 8 pages long, refresh our memory on what carb you have on the car and why you think it is flooding on turns. It could be a lean condition aggravated by turning. (I admit I am too lazy to re-read 8 pages;)). Willie
  11. [quote name=Beemon;1059864 I've seen some replicas online' date=' are they any worth picking up or are the just as good as home grown refurbs? I'm sure they have the vacuum pump Bhigdog was talking about, but are the colors close to accurate? The 55 reproduction wheel cover centers are fine, and the 56 probably are also. Willie
  12. I don't understand your question, click on " 55 Buick Heater" in post #2 above, follow the link and the diagram shows the routing.
  13. http://forums.aaca.org/f115/55-buick-heater-292376.html ..add up the lengths...Note: the oil cooler hoses on 55 are 78" long instead of 74"
  14. That 6-blade should help alot. Using an electric fan in addition to a mechanical fan sometimes decreases efficiency. If that 9-amp fan is a 16" Proform, don't believe it...it actually draws 15 amps and did not cool as well as the stock fan. Willie
  15. There is a visual difference, but it is unknown if there would be a difference in performance. When the water pumps are rebuilt the old impeller is used, so just get that original rebuilt. (Yeah, I know more $$$ and delay...) Willie
  16. I never found a paint the matched the silver/chrome effect of the letters...closest thing was the shiny side of aluminum foil pressed in...again a 20 footer effect.
  17. Flat silver-gray in the turbines, matched the center color to some rattle can...improved the appearance, but still just a good 20 footer. Willie
  18. John Reasons for squeaking: worn pulleys, probably not notched, probably not fabric wrapped like the original was. Turn the radio up. Willie
  19. The correct way to change the pitman shaft seal is to remove the unit from the car, disassemble, check bushings for wear and replace seal. I have added a second seal over the existing one with good results. This was after a unit leaked after a rebuild where everything was already clean...if doing this on one that has been in service for a long time, I suspect that lots of tedious cleaning is in order. Have fun. Willie
  20. Save and use it for the other end of the bracket ( at the exhaust manifold ). If it is plated, the finish will go away on the head from the heat , but the threads will release later. Also original exhaust manifold bolts are very brittle...I have broken as many installing as removing. Willie
  21. The centers are probably reproduced like the 55's I bought in the past. Check with Bob's Automobilia or CARS. I had a set of 55 covers restored by Volunteer State Chevy 15 years ago. They appear to be slightly yellower than originals, but you have to place them together to see the difference. I don't know what they did other than the tool marks on the back side and the perfect finish on outside: they duplicated the flat silvery paint in the turbines and and the brushed effect in the center. This was one of the rare pleasant surprises dealing with vendors. Cost back then was $100 each. I do most of my own hands on work, but could not and would not do these. Willie
  22. 3/8"-16...about 1.5" long (if I have to pull one of mine to actually measure it will cost you extra)...flat washer, lock washer, bolt. Willie
  23. Robert Most pumps continue to run, but only develop their rated pressure. If your pump is rated at 5# or less it is not the problem. If rated at 7-9# move it to near the tank and you will have 5# at the carb. If it is higher than that you need a regulator or a different pump. Even when you install a mechanical pump you will need the electric as an assist for vapor lock situations. Willie
  24. Leave me off...I'm trying to avoid all you "nattering nabobs of negativism":eek:. Willie
×
×
  • Create New...