old-tank

Most restaurants seem seat us next to the restrooms...Hmmm, maybe they are trying to tell me something.:eek:

..from a comment on another thread to avoid hijacking... Good grief Rob, now you're at it. It is bad enough that first time posters start off by asking how to 'get rid of that dynaslush' before ever driving the car. When is the last time you drove or rode in a car with a dynaflow driven for peak performance? The 55 Special dynaflow that I drove in high school and later routinely beat 55 Specials with 3-speeds. Every time the the 3-speed shifted I gained a fender length. The dynaflow was started in Low and held there until 60-65mph or whenever the points and/or valves floated. The 56 and later dynaflow had the switch pitch operational in Low as well as Drive are even faster...not as much drama as winding up in multiple gears. I like both transmissions for what they are, but the Buick 3-speed is a slow shifting transmission with the column shift. Do you need a video of a smokey burnout? Willie

Tim, if it is anything like my 55's the tailpipe was shipped in two pieces to avoid oversize shipping charges. Also the only way to install as one piece or two pieces: the body has to be jacked up with the axle hanging. I never had trouble years ago when I used a bumper jack.:eek: There is also the possibility that it is wrong. Willie

You're not that old yet...and I didn't say I was either;)

You Know You're Getting Old when...nothing or nobody pisses you off anymore.

I'm seeing something backwards...the sliding latch should be outside when the vent is open and only inside when latched.

Sounds more like a plan than a dream...

A few more points: Stainless is showy but overkill. Some pre-bent lines can only be installed intact with the body off the frame. You can not do a double flare on stainless with hand tools! The brake line armor is useful for hand bending/forming. I buy straight line with 2 flare nuts from the auto parts store in lengths close to what I need, cut to correct length and reflare before bending (be sure they don't sell you metric lines---you cannot tell visually---) John makes some great points on removing the flare nuts and reusing if serviceable. Willie

Shoe-- I hope you can make it. The show is 'laid-back' and is about the people as well as the cars. The judging is peer judging...following is the gist of the voting form: Please list your choice of the top 10 (ten) cars. The order of preference is not important. After ballots are tallied, awards will be given to the cars that received the top 10 (ten) votes. A ‘Best of Show’ award will be given to the car getting the most votes. Write the entrant numbers below. Other awards that you may or may not want are “Long Distance Award” and “Hard Luck Award”. I predict that you will have fun and your car will do well in the judging. Willie

Paul, thanks for the link that is already bookmarked. Although they did not have a suitable diode ( unless I used a vacuum tube...would not fit inside the voltage regulator case ), I did find a good price on a 0Z4 tube. Joe, I am glad you chimed in with some 'words of wisdom'! I though I had found a suitable diode in a voltage regulator for an early Ford that was converted to solid state. The number was 60A 50V N... but the polarity was reversed, so in this case the P and N refers to polarity. I demonstrated that it would work if I reversed the GEN and BAT leads, but that would just confuse me later. I did not find a suitable diode in some old computer power supplies, but managed to grab a heat sink. Thanks again... Willie

Doug I can help with that information. First tell us about yourself and car...BCA member? Pictures? Second send me a PM with your contact information. Willie

Before you tell me I'm in the wrong forum, a little history: years ago in my quest to have the original 55 regulator in my car I sent the defective one to have it gutted and replaced with solid state components. It worked so well that I had two more done. Since the builder is no longer in business, I looked at one that quit working and found a diode open. I need to replace a diode with the markings 60A 50V P , no part number, this is a stud mount diode. I cannot find one with those exact specs which I assume to be 60 amp, 50volt and positive polarity. A suggestion on a suitable replacement would be nice (Vishay PCS - 70HF10 - Semiconductors - Diodes - Allied Electronics ....is this a candidate?) More details: the diode is wired between the bat and gen terminals and there is a small circuit board with some transistors, capacitors and resistors wire between the field terminal and ground. Thanks in advance, Willie

Good info...but also be aware that the stock size and type tire will rub if there are worn steering components including but not limited to the idler arm.

You are all DISEASED...and I resemble that remark! Willie

Years ago I bought a set for my Oldsmobile from ebay seller 89nightcrawlers.

I have seen some with this drilled hole... The lock cylinder has to come out before the switch can be removed. Willie

Check the service manual at the end of the ignition system (10-46 in the 55 manual) if there is not a procedure for removing a cylinder that cannot be unlocked with key, let me know and I will scan it. Willie

Joe Drive it with the power steering pump belt disconnected ...if gone the problem is in the power assist portion of the steering box. If it is still there, disconnect the pitman arm at the drag link or center link and turn the wheel (you may have to have a helper apply resistance to the arm). If still there then the problem is in the gear portion of the steering box; if not check/replace/rebuild the center link, idler arm, tie rod ends (anything that move during steering). Willie

Two year old cake will be kinda stale, dontcha think...

Mud Hopefully you have your suppliers all sorted out and are ready to assemble. More pitfalls ahead: be sure to put sealer on the the treads of all fasteners that go into the engine block or head...some are obvious, but others like the the studs for the spark plug covers and the bolts for the engine mounts go into a water jacket...timing cover bolts go into water jacket or oil cavity. Also there is plug in the pan mounting surface of the block midway on the drivers side (installed) that seems to serve no purpose, but if not present that is a source of pan leaks. The fuel pump will slobber from the vent holes on the side (plugging stops the mess, and does not seem to affect function)...the fuel pump shaft will sometimes leak (seal with silicone since there is no pressure) and also frequently check the pump mounting bolts since they tend to become loose or the gasket compresses). You can build a dry nailhead. Willie

Talking with Cecil, some of the items that were 'bought' did not happen and the scooter price was higher than disclosed on the show...no reality, just entertainment.

So they put 350's in Electras and then put v-6's in LeSabres. The local Buick dealer tried to sell me a V-6 LeSabre in 1976...what a dog and dangerous (would not shift out of passing gear without letting off the gas)...that's why I still have the 1976 Olds that I bought instead. Willie

Considerations: 1-You can easily eat up $125 in body work 2-Any replacement fender will have more fitment problems than the original. (I would use the original unless it was beyond repair)

Most of the the vibration eliminators are not rubber, rather corrugated brass with braided covering. They do fatigue with age and use, so replace. Most will not be the exact length, but if too short, some tubing can be added to the remaining original lines. Willie

I have never seen that second spring and washer. The first spring and washers seem to be stacked correctly. Willie