old-tank

April 26-27, 2013 in Bastrop, TX for the Buicks and Bluebonnets meet. http://www.buickclub.org/lonestar/buicksbonnetsbastrop.pdf for preliminary flier...more details soon. Using a machine shop is the best way to do it, but if unavailable, just grind most of the way through the old inner race and smack with a chisel. Then put the axle in the freezer for a few hours, after which carefully heat the race with a propane torch while holding with large plier...just slip it on. Also be sure the replacement race and bearing is not Chinese junk...guaranteed to fail quickly. Willie

Sid As you found out, repacking the rear wheel bearings is too often overlooked. Using modern seals and grease, the job should be good for 100,000 miles. Your gears and shaft actually look better than the parts on my 55 that I drive all over the country. I use 85w-140 gear lube and avoid doing donuts (turns are the only time these gears are used). Willie

You have a PM.

Save yourself the grief of beating the brackets or stands off with wood block, mallets, etc. Just use the rockers: pull back against the spring and let it go to snap against the stands. If after cleaning the assembly is still difficult, use the same technique. Willie

What model is your 55? I can send you a link to the body manual for your model, which should have that info. Willie

ROFLMAO Sounds like those obnoxious New Jersey boys again??

Changing the back spacing on the rims (as in 'reverse rims') will affect handling...something to check. Readjust the brakes. You will be surprised how much difference there will be from one wheel to another, even though they were equal a few days ago. Willie

The shock links were not different lengths. Shock Links 1951-55 (See List) SL-513 is what you need.

Looks too much like a weapon.

...I'll bet he worked for the government...

There is also a starter relay in the system mounted on the inner fender below the voltage regulator, and that may be what you hear clicking. If the 54 is similar enough to my 55's there are 4 wires on the starter relay: 10g pink on end terminal (goes to the ignition switch); 18g pink on the other end (back to the neutral safety switch and then the vacuum switch on the carb); 18 green to the ARM or GEN terminal of the voltage regulator; 10g black goes to the solenoid of the starter. To test if the solenoid and starter are working jump 12v to the 10g black wire and the starter should crank (it will only try to start if the key is off; start and run if key is on). To test the starter relay jump 12v to the 18g pink wire with the key on and it should crank and run. The problem is probably the starter relay. Remove it and open where you will find rust and corrosion. Sometimes the points get oxidized and can be freshened with fine sandpaper; more often the connection at the rivets is compromised. Until you can get a replacement from Bob's Automobilia, strike with a center punch on the edge of the rivets to get better continuity. Now you know how to 'hot-wire' a Buick! Willie

:eek:

Joe You have a PM with a link to the body manual for your car. It's not too hard...just start removing screws and when you think you have them all out there will be a few more hidden ones. Willie

Joe That is from your vent window crank mechanism. You will notice that the shaft that the crank handle attaches to has lots of lateral movement. After you remove the whole vent window frame, etc., you will see where it goes. After cleaning and lubing the gears you can reattach with screws. Willie

...and they say you are half crazy when you talk to yourself...completely crazy when you answer yourself back. Now to add some confusion. There are at least 2 carpet materials that are similar to Daytona: Roxpoint and Grospoint. Grospoint is apparently correct for early Corvettes. Roxpoint is what some vendors (Jenkins) insisted was correct for a 55. Get some samples of Daytona from ACC (post 3 above). Willie

If you did not change the points, the contacts are oxidized. File or sand until shiny (until new can be installed) and you should see sparking at the points while cranking with the cap off...replace cap and there should be spark at the plugs.

Pete Get a cordless (battery powered) version of the appropriate tool. A MAPP gas torch will not cut (unless you have the added oxygen setup), but will get a nut hot enough to remove with hand tools. Willie

Now that's a REAL Buick!...dynaflow already drooling on the driveway.

James did a great job on researching the problem and cure! If the shocks in fact are missing, then you can consider converting to tube type or get some used ones (complete setup), fill with hydraulic jack fluid and install. If they are leakers, then see my website (Low tech tips for mid 50) for my solution. The lever shocks are much maligned mainly because they are 'different' and old technology, when in fact they will outlast the car unless run dry for a long time --- you cannot wear them out. Willie

More like a nut plate, but not riveted to item. It just saves some assembly time in corners (just get the bolt started and the nut is prevented from turning by the corner). You can just use standard nuts and washers --- nobody will see it anyhow. Or you can make your own with 1/8" or 3/16" steel strips --- just drill and tap. Willie

The repros are very nice and I am just glad they are available. I spent nearly 20 hours on one and still had hairline cracks that would not polish out....that's the stuff you do when they are not available. I'll sell you that refurb for half price.

1110861 for 1956

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=dynaflow%20low%20angle%20high%20angle&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CD4QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Frestorecarsclassifieds.com%2Fwiki%2Fshow_pdf.pdf%3Fn%3D15224&ei=H8z0UMv9JcHq2AW-sIGIAg&usg=AFQjCNE-BXFhSCcO3j9DH65xlanthxjWTw&bvm=bv.41018144,d.b2I If you are satisfied that the engine and tranny mounts/thrust pads are intact and correct, and linkages functioning correctly, the above link might help. I'm thinking that the stator is stays stuck in the low angle position and that seems to be controlled mechanically. Pressure tests always help, but are a pain. Willie

Basics Of Basics - Autobodystore Lots of good stuff here including door alignment. If yours is like my 55's the door has some square captive nuts that can only be replaced if the door skin is off. There are some thread repair products, but that would require removing the door again. The good news is that 2 will hold it. If your hinge pins and bushings are worn you will never get it adjusted! Never! The problem with used parts is they have been adjusted and tweaked for a different car or they have settled to different mounting stress. I find it best to only have a helper to lift the door to the initial mounting position ( or a jack )....too much arguing about where to go next and explaining what you are doing (failures are also kept private).

From a 4 year old post I made ... "The devil made me do it" While at the recent 'Buicks and Blue Bonnets' meet I was leaving a restaurant at dusk when a nice young man came up to my 55. He complimented the car and mentioned his concern over the fact that only one of my backup lights was working. I told him the other one only works when it is real dark. He then stuck his finger in a porthole and asked what they were for. I told him exhaust comes out when activated and told him to stand back while demonstrated. He nearly stumbled and fell when I revved the engine. While traveling in Pennsylvania about 14 years ago on the way to a BCA meet, I pulled into a gas station with my 55. While fueling a very unpleasant lady(?) came up and asked what kind of gas mileage the car got. After telling her about 15 mpg she proceeded to lecture me about wasting energy in that gas guzzler. I told her I was from Texas and in addition to a 10000 acre ranch I had about 50 oil wells and thanked her for using my product (none is true). She got into her Geo Metro and left in a huff. Recently near home again I was refueling the 55 when a young man pulled in with his low rider (63 Impala) and asked me what I did to that Chebby. I went through a long list of customization techniques and said that if did any more it might be a Buick...don't think he ever understood and is still telling his buddies about that customized 55 Chebby. And of course there is the old 'hands free starting' Willie