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'51 Special

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About '51 Special

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  • Birthday 06/29/1948

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  1. Willy- Sorry for the long delay. (I've been traveling and ignoring the computer.) I'd pay the money and the shipping. Note, I am particularly interested in the "mustache," the three pieces immediately above the vertical bars, if they are sound. '51
  2. Willy- Are the parts for a Series 40, or one of the big cars? If they are series 40, I'm interested in the grill.
  3. I believe I have one off of a 1950 263. It would need to have be resurfaced, and to have the starter ring flipped. And, its heavy and in Bismarck, ND. Any interest? '51 Special
  4. The car is a 1951 Special. The problem is the hood will not stay in place when it is open and resting on the support hinged on the center of the cowl. When initially opened and placed on the support, all appears fine. But, after being opened, the hood will suddenly come loose from the rear hinge, and hang loosely on the front hinge and the support. This happens on both sides. I can cause it to happen with a very gentle downward tug on the open side of the hood. This is a new problem. My first thought is that the hood had been somehow widened. It was recently in a shop for some carb work an
  5. avgwarhawk- Wow! Such an excellent and thorough description of the process. My problem was a bit different. My 51 Special was sitting unused for years as it dumped copious amounts of ATF, even when sitting idling. I couldn't find anyone who had ever taken a dynaflow apart, let alone was skilled, and the only person willing to look at it wanted a grand just to see if he could figure out how to stop the leaking. I hadn't done much mechanical work since I was a kid (45+ years ago), but one thing I remembered was switching a 51 Chev with a busted powerglide to a standard transmission. No big
  6. avgwarhawk- You write: " I replaced my three speed manual. I have the vulcanized torque ball seal. It was there with the transmission in the Buick." I may be reading too much into this, but do you have a vulcanized torque ball seal on a standard transmission car? If so, I'd really like to know where to find such a thing. So far as I have been able to find suppliers, the vulcanized seals are available only for dynaflows. '51 Special
  7. I used the molasses and water dip. Big plastic barrel, lots of molasses. I was going to be gone for a couple of months so I left the manifold (off of a 263 I-8) in the whole time. Came back, the manifold looked like new, but the flapper was still stuck. I also tried heat. No press so I didn't try that. Ended up cutting the flapper out. Seemed like a good idea until last week when I drove the Buick out of a warm (65 deg.) garage and out into -10 deg. I did get it to go all of the two miles I needed, but the choke pulled shut and stayed shut, not withstanding that the car was warm the wh
  8. Do you still have the '63 Motors Manual? if so, I want to buy it. Please advise of the mailing cost, and an address by personal mail, and I will send you a check. '51 Special
  9. Is anyone willing to recommend a business that rebuilt an AC fuel pump successfully and at a fair price?
  10. I bought a 30 gal. plastic barrel (from the smell, it oncet held pickles) with a 14 inch opening in the top, a sealed screw-on lid, and a depth of 32 inches. I installed a drain valve 5 inches from the bottom. It is filled with 7 to 1 water/feed molassas. It sits in my basement, and has de-rusted all manner of parts that are now back on my 51 Buick, including exhaust manifold, clutch pressure plate,and scads of fasteners. The internet will explain the chemistry. I just know it works, though it takes time, and you get to scrub the residue off with water. (A pressure washer is useful.) It h
  11. I just completed rebuilding the 263 in my '51 Special. It was running just before teardown. I re-installed the original distributor (Delco-Remy 1110815), and a new coil that had only minutes of use before the teardown began (I wanted to make sure it would run before tearing into it, and I had not been getting any spark). Now, again, I cannot get any spark. (Not weak spark, but NO spark.) I tried another coil, still no spark. The distributor and all of its parts are clean and dry. The points are used but in excellent condition, and correctly gaped. The primary circuit and the points are working
  12. This may be a way to deal with the limited (or nonexistant) supply of torque ball parts for the 1948-1952 manual transmission Buicks. Purists should just look away. When I was searching for a decent manual transmission for my '51, I found a nice transmission out of a '46 or '47 Super. I used everything except the "rear bearing retainer," tailshaft, and torque ball out of the older transmission. All that was necessary to mount the longer (1950 in this case) rear bearing retainer and tailshaft was to drill and tap a hole in the older case. I have the newer torque ball installed, and it is wor
  13. In order to match up my speeedometer to the 3.6 to 1 ratio rear end in my 51 Special, I need an 18 tooth driven gear. Problem is, I'm not finding an 18 tooth driven gear for a manual transmission. Can anyone tell me if the speedometer driven gear assembly can be disassembled. (The manual says: "The speedometer driven gear is furnished only as an assembly consisting of sleeve, shaft, retaining washer and gear.") My goal is to install an 18 tooth gear out of a dynaflow on the .5 inch shorter sleeve and shaft from a manual transmission driven gear assembly. But I cannot figure out how to get the
  14. Mr. White- I have the need because I just learned that the pedal set I got from a 1950 Super does not fit my 1951 Special. The problem is the clutch pedal, which has an interference with the frame. So, to solve my problem, the question is: Is the 1950 Special pedal set like the 1951 Special, or is it like the 1950 Super? Do you know?
  15. Mr. White- If either had a standard transmission, did you keep the pedal set (clutch and brake pedals, with the shaft they mount on)?
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