old-tank

Yep! On one car (original box) I slowed the leak by using some heavy grease as a gasket sealer. On the two I have rebuilt, I used anaerobic sealer. Willie

Take a caliper to town and measure sockets, or google thinwall deep sockets...they are out there. One of my 3 sockets fits well; it is an old snapon. Willie

...it never hurts to ask.

John You can borrow my tool if needed. But unless you are replacing pinion bearings I would leave the seal alone...even if leaking it achieves a level in the torque tube that is below the driveshaft and does not harm anything. If your car has dynaflow you will need to seal at the front of the torque tube, because leaks will fill the torque tube and rear with tranny fluid. It looks like you have lots to do on that car.... Willie

You need a bigger hammer. My website also details: driveshafttool Willie

Probably not, there is dark paint below the sweepspear (how do you spell 3-tone?)

Check to pressures with a known accurate gauge...there can be 5+ psi error in some cheap ones.

RockAuto Parts Catalog should have a cruise control transducer for your car

Mine measured 0.554. Pictures that were clear showed interference damage as previously described. I usually tell people to keep the old distributor as an emergency spare, but in this case scrap it! Willie

Sounds like a reasonable choice. Let us know how it works. One thing to watch for that I have seen on aftermarket distributors: with the rotor pointed like the old one, be sure the tang at the bottom that engages the oil pump is oriented the same....if not there may be a problem with no oil pressure. Willie

Can you post a picture of those tires that you got from Universal? The price is the same as Coker, but the picture is different (both Goodrich Silvertown). The Goodrich Silvertown from Coker rides and handles well at 32 psi, especially when new with tall tread. If these are in fact different than the Coker, and not just resellers, there may be differences in the construction that affect ride (I cannot believe that 2 vendors are selling completely different tires with the same name). Willie

http://forums.aaca.org/f115/zinc-motor-oil-338283.html You probably can use any available oil. Just choose the viscosity that will maintain good oil pressure and keep the engine quiet for your driving conditions. Willie

How many different ways can you shape a jellybean? Gag!

Bill Sounds like it is worn out! The MSD unit I have no direct knowledge of, but I am sure it can be made to work...probably overkill for that engine. I bet that someone in your area can find a serviceable unit...I can loan one of my spares (take along for cross country trips) if needed. Willie

Pictures of the distributor, cap, rotor?

There are rods front and back that hold the cups against the mat.

This has been discussed before: http://forums.aaca.org/f115/zinc-motor-oil-338283.html While extra zinc will not hurt, you probably don't need it. Willie

The sending unit is grounded to the tank, which is grounded to the body. Rust, paint, insulation, and even substituting a rubber line for a steel line will interfere with the ground. You have established that it works if grounded, so a hidden ground wire is all you need. Willie

Ground problem?

Propane is ok, carb cleaner might damage the engine paint:eek:. See what the actual temperature is, but 2200 cfm might not be enough. A 2100 cfm fan (Proform 67016 Electric Fan) was not enough (actually worse than the stock fan) when I tried it a year ago with a stock radiator...unless that radiator you have is significantly better. An air cleaner silencer cuts down on roar from the carb. The 322 has a big bucket in front, the stock 264 has a big pocket around the sides of the base...an aftermarket cleaner with exposed paper filter will roar...some like that (called the testosterone effect ) Your stock cooler is fine unless you are towing in the mountains. You can get the timing close using a vacuum gauge (some say that is the best way)...just rotate the distributor until you get the highest reading, then back off one inch Hg on the reading. The readings you have now should give good performance. Willie

Possibilities after following all your posts and conversations and issues I have encountered: Wrong lifter pushrod combination (56 lifters+55 pushrods= too long) holding some valves open. Gasket leaks. Sticking valves from too tight valve guides....the oil you added should help. The 322 harmonic balancer you installed and had balanced to the 264...timing tab on timing cover and mark on balancer may be different...that is why setting timing using vacuum gauge seemed to improve the vacuum (you started at 12?) Original supplied timing chain was loose fitting and another was substituted so hopefully the builder paid attention to the marks. What kind of fan do you have, air cleaner silencer, tach will help? As noted above, do the compression check, function of vacuum advance Willie

You can't see it anyway ! Since the engines and transmissions were produced at different plants, they would have their own unique color. A modification made in 1967 would look 'original' today. Willie

It depends on where you want to park and who you want to park next to. Driven class is all years, is sometimes in a remote (from the judged cars) location, judging is on a different day; but you get some good driving conversation with nice people: "Hey Ben, how many miles did you drive that '50?". Display is next to the judged cars of your class; also good conversation: "So why did you paint it pink?" Willie

I have the group 31 commercial in 2 of my 55's. It fits perfectly in the tray and the top hold-down fits too. The hold-down bolts may not be long enough. This has stud terminals but screw-on terminals to fit your cables are available. With 700-1000CCA it is more than adequate. At 75 lbs it is very heavy and hard to handle. Willie

Ben is probably correct. Another contributing factor may be that the second road was more severely domed, since that is when you noticed it.