old-tank

1957. Back in the 60's I solved a leak by buying and installing (on my 55) what was described as a 1957 outer torque ball retainer. I used to have a 1958 Flightpitch manual and that type was described there. There have been some described here that had the rubber on the torque ball. Willie

Check the fluid level; check the shift linkage adjustment as outlined in the shop manual; check pressures as outlined in the shop manual...then get back to us. Willie

...and if the brakes are not kept in good shape...

Mercenary friends...or is that an oxymoron? Sell that one and some other stuff and buy mine Mine is a little cheaper...

A little work, but all you need is the key number and any locksmith can cut a new one. Just remove a door lock and read the number on the tang. Willie

Dayum...the one I have been saving for you just got more expensive...

yes

3-4 seconds is as good as it gets. Usually cleaning and lubrication with silicone grease will revive. McVey's Cadillac has some washer parts ($$$) as does the tri-5 chevy vendors. Give me your model and I will send you a link to a body manual...or better yet put it in your signature so I don't have to ask again . Willie

WCFB 2197s...the most common 4bbl used on 55's with 322. You have a PM...

Bill You don't need to remove the engine to fix the seal! And I don't see any other reason to do it at this time. Willie

...and now for your reading pleasure, my boring rant about Pertronix: There is nothing special about installing electronic ignition in a stock distributor. Maybe if you adapted an HEI to your engine you might get the advantage of the larger distributor cap, thicker wires and the ability to install plugs with a wider gap. Any ignition system, electronic or points is just a switch, with electronic only having the advantage of working at high rpm (6,000+). Also I have had some disasters with the Pertronix unit. It worked (same as stock with no increase in mpg, power or driveability) for 5,000 miles and then my rotor burned. Burned as in it literally caught fire inside the distributor and burned the tip off. The next year a friend had the exact same thing happen. Not heeding those incidents, I put the same unit in another engine with you guessed it... It seems that the carbon rod between the center and tip of a 55 rotor is what burns. Calls to Pertronix were useless, since they offered no technical support. The original instructions for wiring to the car called for bypassing the resistor on the firewall. This is supposed to result in a hotter spark if used with their 'FlameThrower' coil. Internet research showed new installation instructions: use a stock coil and don't bypass the firewall resistor. I have not tried this and you should not either just to pay for an expensive switch. Stock points/condensor will last 30,000 miles and will serve you well, just like they did when these old cars were contemporary. I would rather change them when I want to, not in the hot parking lot of a truck stop in Little Rock, AR. I still have the Pertronix and might sell it to someone I don't like, but would not sell or give to a friend. Willie

It is a common allen size; just a bear to get it to fit...start with smallest size and work up and the first one that does not sink into the recess will be the one to fiddle with some more.

No telling what those carbs came from without numbers. Neither seem to have the vacuum start switch that was mostly exclusive to Buick. Most of the time the 2bbl will have a larger bore than the the primaries of a 4bbl and will give better seat of the pants driveablity in all but WOT situations. On the other hand nailheads like larger carbs than similar size brandX engine. A WCFB 2197s will wake up that 264. Willie

55 Buicks have good brakes.

All of mine work;)

Before you give up try: WiperMan.COM - Wipers, Wipers, Wipers Cleaning and lubing will not work if there are worn parts like the paddle. Mine on my 55 go slap-slap-slap even on a dry windshield. Willie

This is one case where it might be OK to wear a ball cap backwards. It offers a little padding when you bump your head, and you may be able to see what you are about to bump into. 58's are worse. Never work under an open hood with the wind from the rear of those cars...a gust will bring that heavy $%&*@ down on your head. Willie

That's a flywheel/flexplate for a dynaflow and even then it is different from the one used with a 322. All standard tranny flywheels will have some surface crack that will mostly disappear with resurfacing of the flywheel.

Robert No torque ball boot is needed, and no shimming/adjusting needed. Just use two of the "shims" as gaskets...if you used more, it will probably be ok. If it leaks at the vulcanized outer torque ball retainer, just loosen and take out some of the extra shims. Also if too many shims make it too loose, it will vibrate on deceleration. I used to have a 58 Flightpitch manual that detailed the use of the vulcanized outer torque ball retainer --- maybe Smartin can post so you don't have to take my word for it. Willie

Bill That's not that uncommon especially if it has been started several times without warming up to point of drying out. If you see along with this water a lot of vapor/steam from the tailpipe that hangs in the air even on a hot dry day, then you may have coolant getting in the exhaust. You had an unexplained low coolant situation (either it did not get filled or it leaked somewhere); check the oil to see if milky and inside the breather(s) for condensate...any of this mean the engine builder is going to get some exercise. Willie

Around here (south central Texas) radials might last 5-6 years (trailer tires less)...I have never worn out a radial. Bias ply age better since it seems it is the belts that detach with age. A friend with a 70 GSX bought some tires to replace the 10yr old set, but wanted to do one last burnout with the old ones...the flapping tread only did a little damage. On the old iron that I drive only a few thousand miles a year, I use bias ply which will last 15,000 miles...on the cars that I drive over 5,000 miles a year, I go with radials which get replaced in 5 years. Willie

I see the leak in your picture, but where are the bolts? If all you need is gasket change, cut the new gaskets at the top, loosen the retainer enough to get the gaskets in place and use you favorite sealer, especially at the cut at the top. You don't need to shim and check drag with that type of outer torque ball retainer.' Willie

JohnD is an overdue choice!

Clothes pins, insulation, rerouting the line between the mechanical lift pump and the carb did nothing for my 55's. The vapor lock is between the tank and the pump. Only a 7-9# electric pump (which will give 5# at the carb) mounted at the tank will work. The vapor lock is between the tank and the pump! That's on the suction side of the mechanical lift pump...the pressure side will push fuel and vapor into the carb. Willie

New poured bearing connecting rods? Did you set the clearance using shims and check with Plastigauge? Same with the mains (was the crank spinning freely before adding connecting rods) I don't understand this variable torque on the rod caps...most are torqued to something like 45 psi...at 20 psi I would expect the cap to come off in a few miles. Were the piston and ring clearances checked? Too little ring end gap and a slightly tapered bore will bind big time. "Some disassembly required" Willie