old-tank

I am in the process of selling some or all of the old iron (see cars in my signature). I started off by offering the convertible: http://forums.aaca.org/f117/1955-buick-century-convertible-364805.html I have been asked a question by a potential buyer that some of you may be able to help with: How are existing BCA judging awards handled when the car is sold? This car attained a Gold/Senior in 1997 and Senior Preservation in 2004. I am aware that VIN numbers are required for judging, so that is probably saved to a file. Can the new owner campaign the car again in BCA judging? Does a Senior award expire? Other than local shows (killing chevies) it has not been campaigned (AACA). Willie

If the 'brake fitting wrench' doesn't work and before you round it off or twist the line, cut it just behind the flare nut and use a 6 point socket to remove. If the line is still serviceable, just put on a new flare nut and reflare...you only lost 1/4" and most lines can give up that much. If you hate flare fittings as much as I do, this might make them more tolerable.

I don't know if you will be OK, but the engine probably will be. If was frozen the water pump probably would not turn, and starting and warming a frozen engine would make all of the casting (aka freeze) plugs pop out. Years ago when I was too cheap or lazy to put in antifreeze, I would drain the radiator if freezing temperatures were anticipated and refill just before driving again. If temperatures were still freezing this would cause water to freeze in the radiator when cold air was pulled across it. Cardboard solved that problem. Then after sitting over a freezing weekend I connected a hose to the hot water pipe at the washer and filled the radiator, started the car and watched rusty water puke all over the driveway. (you don't want to install freeze plugs on a nailhead unless it is on an engine stand) Willie

In the meantime, you might research another option: A friend 'personalized' a 54 Buick ( similar dash ) and used 55 Chevy switch and bezel to be functional and not unpleasant to look at.

Give me a few days to look for the pieces in the photos or in my parts cars. Willie

Looks like it is about as good as it gets. Gently tap down the high spots and use filler. The 55 Buick sheet metal is fairly thin and has some temper and is very easy to stretch...then you have a real mess on your hands. The techniques you developed on the Model T's mostly will not work here. With that said, go ahead and show me how to really do it . Willie

Replacing the brushes, bushings and drive may be all it needs...see Rockauto.com. If that doesn't help you local starter/alternator rebuilder should be able to help. Willie

Do you see any of what you want here?: http://www.buickrestorer.com/ignitionswitch.html

Can you post a picture of what you want?

Drill a hole in the torque tube just in front of the weld for the rear flange, tap for a machine screw to act as plug. This way you can monitor and drain tranny fluid before it gets in the rear end. Willie

Found some for you to play with...let me know. Willie

I'll look tomorrow. Whatever you end up doing, you need to duplicate the reduced diameter part of the pressure hose to keep it from being noisy. Willie

As noted, vapors from the breathers does not indicate a clogged draft tube or valley cover, but if the valley cover has not been apart, it probably is clogged: http://www.buickrestorer.com/valleycover.html Also as noted, an extended drive will show a decrease in vapors. Willie

1955 Buick Century (66C) Convertible. Pictures at http://www.buickrestorer.com/centurys/66c/ Restored, BCA Senior (399 points), Senior Preservation. Not just a pretty face: it was mechanically restored to be used for 300,000 miles. $80,000 or better offer. Initial contact by private message on this forum.

1955 Buick Century (66C) Convertible. Pictures at http://www.buickrestorer.com/centurys/66c/ Restored, BCA Senior (399 points), Senior Preservation. Not just a pretty face: it was mechanically restored to be used for 300,000 miles. $80,000. Initial contact by private message on this forum.

Have that 'new' battery load tested, charge to 100% and test again. If it passes the tests then run a temporary (large) ground cable to one of the starter mounting bolts. Check back with your findings. Willie

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/brakes-ii-227946.html This is my experience with Raybestos shoes. Go to a brake/clutch rebuilder and have them rivet on shoes with the performance that you specify. They can also turn the drums and arc the shoes. The ones I had installed have performed well, and even though I was warned of short life, I see no significant wear after 25,000 miles. "Your can't run fast enough to give another set of Raybestos shoes" Willie

Send me a PM with the model of your Special and I will send you a link to the body manual in pdf format. Willie

Not much of a filter compared to the Buick filter...why did they even bother....

Don't try to bend free-hand...take the glass out and bend around the glass, or at least make a pattern of the bend and duplicate on 1/8 +/- board.

Rockauto will have most of what you need and the best prices. Take the shoes to your local brake/clutch rebuilder and specify linings that will easily stop a 2-ton Buick. Use only new wheel cylinders (don't rebuild) and resleaved master cylinders. Willie

See what happens when you ol' boys send that frozen stuff to Texas...well, we just send it back .

Measure your blocks, start with the best one. If the ridge needs to be reamed, let the machine shop do it...you can ruin a block or necessitate having a sleeve installed =$$. On the other hand, you should be commended for being willing to do most of the work yourself and trying to salvage a working engine from available parts...not every engine needs a "blueprint" rebuild. If you mean 0.002-0.003 wear, then that is a candidate for hone and new rings if the pistons are good and appropriate for the heads you want to use.

Use the latest with appropriate pistons...

Literature out there: http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1953-Cadillac-Twin-Turbine-Dynaflow-Transmission-Repair-Shop-Manual-Original-P15102.aspx Google: 53 Cadillac dynflow for more AACA discussions and others. While some Cadillac and Olds owners liked the smoothness of the dynaflow, others found them more sluggish than the Hydramatic. Part of the sluggishness may be due to not being matched to the horsepower and torque curve of the engines. While the Olds and Cadillac engines had similar horsepower and torque, those values were achieved at higher rpm. Even todays high revving engines need 6 gears to perform like high torque /low rpm engines of the past that used no more than 3 gears.