NTX5467

www.bgproducts.com gets you to the front page of the website. From there, you can search for a local distributor by state and county. From the result of the "Find A Distributor" search, you can then proceed to the "Find A Shop" search via zip code, after the prior search. The "Find A Shop" page will bring up a map with the shops listed on it, including their addresses and such. Plus which level of distribution that have achieved. I suspect the dealership parts dept will sell you the items they might have, while the independent shops might also, as they might also seek to sell you the product + installation services. One of the other tool bar items is "PRODUCTS", so you can browse through that, too. Enjoy! NTX5467

BG Products, like other similar chemical products, are used by many new car dealers whose service departments sell those products and related services. Usually fuel system items and kits, brake pad "soaks", and cooling system kits. One reason they were popular with our techs was their spiff tokens in the bottom of the cans! IF you find a new car dealer's service dept that uses BG, go to the parts depart or used car department reconditioning parts department, and see what they might have. Then you might ask for the contact info for the distributor, if you can't find it online. Why new car dealers and not auto supplies? Selling the products and related services is an additional profit center for the service dept and parts departments. The sales volume is much higher, too. Our BG rep came around about every two weeks, wrote the order, and the items were delivered the next week. Hard to find an auto supply with that kind of consistent sales volume of those products. Enjoy! NTX5467

Texas (and probably other states) have a form to complete when an engine change is made in a vehicle whose model year uses sthe Engine number as the VIN. On "modified cars" of those earlier years, when an engine change was made, you could also take the car to the local DPS office and get it inspected for what it is, then the DPS would issue "a number" to use to title the car with. Which might be what the number is on the referenced title. I believe there is a way to "raise" the number which has been damaged on the first block picture? As I understand it, it can be used to see what stamping numbers might have been machined-off during an engine rebuild or otherwise. You might network with some local people to see whom to talk to at your state DMV office to see what their rules might be. Show them the title imaged above and such, too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

After the vehicle sits overnight, or for any period of time, any oil in circulation will drain back into the crankcase, including the filter (unless it has an anti-drainback valve). The bearings and other things will still have a residual layer of oil on them, pretty much, too, so no "dry engine" starts per se. The use of the 0W-__, 5W-__ , and 10W-__ motor oils will get oil through the system quicker than a base 30 oil will. NTX5467

The type of media usually is not mentioned. To me, as long as it's a quality brand, that is a moot point. Especially considering how many miles we've driven cars with simple paper media of unknown micron-trapping specs. I've seen some filters say they are rated for synthetic oils, but I consider that more marketing hype to charge more money and give an aura of "better quality". Understandably, we all want the best oil filer and air filter available, which used to me either an OEM brand or a known good aftermarket brand. I remember when Fram was discovered to have "cardboard" ends on their filter media and flat leaf springs as the high pressure blow-off valve controlled (as coil springs were deemed much better). I believe that their higher-priced or heavier-duty filters now have metal end caps, but "t he damage" was done, at least to more vintage consumers. Younger generations were not around for those things, so they just see an oil filter on the shelf, in a nice box, now. The square inches of media area can be a concern, BUT look at the current OEM oil filters on newer engines. Smaller than my fist, usually. Even for engines of 6.0+ Liters. Granted, they are installed on engines which are completely sealed from the ambient atmosphere, but still they must filter lots of oil in 7500 mile, or longer, oil change intervals. So, in one respect, these things tend to make me wonder if the way we always determined if a filter was good or not, are really valid any more? I've always liked to use OEM-brand filters (ACDelco or Motorcraft), but after a filter test in the 1980s by "Auto-X" magazine, the Wix filters suddenly came into the spotlight, after Dana Corp bought the brand. It was the best Ford FL-1A filter application in the test. Perhaps a good measure of an oil filter is its weight. Back in the 1960s, Hastings and Baldwin were usually sold at discount stores. In looking at their websites and history, each has been bought by an international entity, improved their product, and now they are worldwide brands. BTAIM Kind of like buying an automatic transmission rebuild kit. There are inexpensive aftermarket brands, better aftermarket brands, and OEM kits. When installed, they all do their job well. Never know how good or bad they are until you pull things apart and see how they held up . . . many years later. Enjoy! NTX5467

To me, it's more about the charging system output rather than battery power. The circuits will still require the same amount of power sent to them by the harness. Just that the more powerful batteries can tolerate the load for longer periods of time before needing re-charging, typically. In general, the longevity of the harness is determined by the basic gauge of the wire itself and how securely the terminals are attached to the wire. Such that little heat is built (via resistance) at each terminal/joint in the harness. If you are going to be adding air conditioning or a powerful sound system, then some changes might need to be made. Especially an alternator of about 65amps or so (which probably can be tolerated well, I suspect). NTX5467

To the issue of parts changing from one model year to another . . . years ago, a local transmission shop owner and I were talking, after closing time. We were talking about part changes. He made the comment "If Chrysler or Ford change something, there usually is an engineering reason for it. If GM changes something, it depends on who was making decisions that day." By observation, most of the "long-lived" reputation of many import brands is due to their engines, or used to be. In many cases, GM vehicles could have been that way too, but the necessary upgrades to do so would have cost GM billions of $$$$$ to do that, none of which could have related to increases in new vehicle sales. So spend "enough" money, but not too much. At 92K miles, I put a Cloyes double-roller timing chain in my '77 Camaro V-8. It was still in it when we pulled the motor at 525K miles for leaking block freeze plugs, when a rebuilt 355 (which had been waiting a long time, on the engine stand) was installed. So, if GM had spent about $10.00 on a better timing set and another $10.00 on better valve guide machining and seals, every GM engine could run at least that long with little repairs. But as the average GM customer traded vehicles every few years, such money would not have related into new vehicle sales, while keeping a good reputation for GM vehicles' longevity increasing used vehicle values. Have to keep getting new vehicles sold to generate operating profits for the stockholders! In other words, until the marketplace forces GM to spend money on upgrades and such, they will not. I noticed several years ago that GM-Fleet noted that all GM V-8s (in pickup trucks) had their timing chains factory validated to last at least 200K miles, for example. If Cadillac had not been "chasing" Lexus, the Northstar V-8 might not have happened as it did. Similar with Ford/Lincoln-Mercury and their 4.6L V-8. The other thing is that when an engine family tooling needs replacement, design a new motor for the same money as building a mediocre one, which justifies the expense, then plan on building it for 10-15 years, until "cycle repeat". THAT is why the Chrysler Gen III Hemi was replaced after about 4 upgrades since its introduction in about 2005. Why the GM 3.5L High Feature V-6 replaced the Buick 3800 and Chevy 3.5L V-6 (2.8L V-6 engine family). Why the new Chevy "Turbo MAX" 2.7L 4-cyl has replaced the V-6 and 4.8L V-8s in the pickup truck powertrain selections. Oh well, take care, NTX5467

Out of curiosity, I did some looking around in Rock Auto today . . . . 1963 Buick Riviera 425 V-8 Oil filter Wix 51258 Black color Ht = 4.338" Wix 51049 White color Ht = 5.178" Fram PH25 Ex Guard Ht = 4.047" 1963 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 Oil Filter Wix 51049 White color Ht - 5.178" Interesting that RockAuto online catalog lists both oil filters for the 425, but only the 51049 for the 401, although the Fram PH25 is listed for both engine sizes. From the Wix online catalog 1963 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 shows 51049 425 V-8 shows 51258 Other filter listings in the Wix online catalog -- Fuel 33002 Plastic/opaque 2-5/16" lines Listed for 401 and 425 33032 Chrome w/hoses and clamps 2- 5/16" lines Listed for 401 and 425 33040 Chrome 2-5/16" hoses, 1-1/4" vapor line Listed for 425 only Air 401 only 42092 17.062" OD Top 16.16" OD Bottom Flange on top, no flange on bottom 2.92" Ht 425 only 42082 9.96" OD Top and bottom No flange on top or bottom 3.03" Ht For 1964 Riviera, only one oil filter listed -- 51049 for 4012 and 425 engines Only one air filter listed -- 42092 for 401 and 425 Fuel filters 401 33002 and 33032 425 33033 3/8" lines and 33040 Air filter 42092 for 401 and 425 For 1965 Riviera, only the Air Filter changed from 1964 . . . 42084 11.625" OD 2.36" Ht Hope this might explain some number differences, NTX5467

In the 1990s, I had a friend who had a NAPA store in Eastern TX. He was sourcing his ACDelco items from a Dallas jobber warehouse. His customers liked it as he had their parts the next day. THEN the NAPA rep told him he had to use the smaller supplier (closer to him), just over the Louisiana border, higher purchase prices and poor service to him. End of taking better care of his customers, it seemed. As things have evolved, so many local parts stores are supplied by one massive regional parts jobber. Sometimes, the jobber owns the store, too. Life goes on . . . NTX5467

In many cases, tne NAPA part number is their vendor's part number. For example, in the A1 Cardone line, the placement of the "-" is the only difference, with the exact same numbers. NAPA Exhaust numbers used to be the same number as Walker Exhaust, which built their stuff. Seems like that in the WIX website, there is a vendor cross-over which also has their number changes in it? Quite a bit to dig through, once you know their current number via their dimensional listings. You can also use the Rock Auto catalog listings for dimensions and possibly other brands, too. You can also put the number and vendor into Google and see what pops up, too. Enjoy! NTX5467

Similar image in the '69 Chevy parts book, too. Similar in the Buyer's Guide/Illustrations rear section of the ACDelco paper parts book on a/c parts.

What somebody needs to perfect is a recliner that can transform into a low-profile motorized creeper so "getting up and down" is easier to do. I find it to be stress relief when laying under a car secured on jack stands. Looking up at it as some might gaze at the night sky and twinkling stars. Looking at everything in the process. But, alas, after that long-lingering drop of motor oil finally drops into the drain pan, time for action . . . Otherwise, one of those oil extraction electric pumps can work well. NTX5467

All the "chattering" will come from inside the car . . .

Key points . . . are the hoses leaking? Does the system have R134a in it yet? IF the hose itself is leaking, then it can be replaced with new hose and an "A/C hose clamp" used rather than the factory crimps, unless the local auto supply (which can also build/repair hoses) can crimp it. In the late 1960s, there were NO pre-made a/c hoses in GM, just parts to build them with. As in the fitting on the back of the compressor, the fittings to the condenser and evaporator and drier, and such. Plus bulk hose and the different a/c hose clamps. Same way on new vehicles from back then, too. There used to be many aftermarket a/c parts companies (Murray, ACDelco, and others) which sold non-OEM hose assys., BUT in the gack of those paper catalogs, they also had ILLUSTRATIONS of the various fittings for sale, too. A/C mufflers, too! ACDelco, specifically, had one such catalog for the hose assys and the parts to build them, too! That stuff should STILL be around, but even back then, it took somebody who knew about them to get one of those catalogs. You might advise the shop to contact a parts jobber which carries the full-line of ACDelco parts AND has access to the various ACDelco paper catalogs. Mostly in metro areas, I suspect, which service mainly private shops and a few dealerships. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

The "rollers" I know are hulk-of-a-vehicle with 4 wheels to roll them around on. Then, as long as the tires don't go flat, Code Enforcement can't mandate that they should be removed, unless they might become "a nuisance" of sorts. FWIW

When Dexcool came out, the GM rep told me that in the first 3000 miles of use (as it was recommended only for new vehicles which came with it from the factory), a chemical in it would coat the water jackets and such with a coating to kill corrosion and keep it from starting. It was not recommended for older vehicles which had already had green coolant in them. Again, his "recommendations". Yet I also suspected that in an older vehicle with a freshly-vatted and rebuilt engine, adding a new radiator and heater core into the mix, would be the same as a new vehicle, in cooling system aspects. By the time Dexcool was introduced, ALL used coolant was supposed to be collected and recycled. With the long service life of Dexcool, GM mentioned the HUGE amount of used coolant that would not need to be put into the recycling system . . . as an ecological benefit. Dexcool was supposed to be silicate-free, which was supposed to mean longer water pump seal life, but V-8 Silverados with Dexcool still needed new water pumps at about 80K miles back then, anyway. It DID seem that as long as the coolant was kept at its normal level in the coolant recovery tank, no problems. IF the coolant was seeping out and that low level got to the radiator tank, THEN "pink sand" could appear in the radiator filler neck. Which vehicles this happend to, by observation, was not the complete spectrum of GM vehicles. As I understand it, with the many complaints on the Internet and eisewhere, GM started to inspect the lease vehicle they got back in (personal and otherwise) and determine what the issues were. In a few years, it seemed that ALL such issues tended to vanish, never to be heard of again. There are multiple chemical formulas for "long-life coolants". Dexcool is ONE, but Ford and Chrysler have their own specific coolants, too, for example. Different, but related, chemistries which allegedly do NOT mix. Yet Prestone and others now have universal coolants in addition to Dexcool. Valvoline hits Ford and Chrysler, as I recall. By observation, normal coolant can be added to Dexcool, in an emergency situation, the GM rep noted, but when Dexcool becomes contaminated, its benefits are diminished. He noted that for the long-term benefits of Dexcool to remain, the contaminated coolant needs to be drained and replaced with fresh Dexcool as soon as possible. When Dexcool becomes contaminated with "green", the resultant mixture looks like liquid mud, by observation. Normally saw that in the first years of Descool, as most customers did not know what "Dexcool" was back then, they just knew "antifreeze", so they bought the cheapest version they could . . . just like they had been for years. What could be different? The BASF coolant pamphlet I picked up noted that ethylene glycol eats lead solder, so additives in the coolant prevent/diminish this activity. Reason to change coolant rather than just corrosion protection. Of course, with the newer composite radiators and heater cores, no lead solder in the cooling systems since about 1992 or so, if not more like 1982 (when we saw the first composite radiators on Camaros and such). Somewhere back then, I discovered that many over-the-road trucks had "crimped and gasketed" radiator cores, rather than soldered-in ones. Enjoy! NTX5467

(Hydrographic film . . . is that related to "body wrap" material for vehicles?)

There is a '57 New Yorker 2-dr hardtop which used to come to our annual Mopar shows. A fantastic-looking correctly-restored car. The main body areas were very nice and shiny black. The roof was a metallic black. The subtle contrast really stood out against the shiny total black of the rest of the car body. In order to possibly save time and expense, you could paint the car all one color in your choice of normal paint. THEN, use a body wrap material to do the two-toning with. This way, if you don't like it, it can be removed. Plus keeping a decent shine on the 2nd color. A few years ago, the parts truck I had was factory silver, but the other trucks we got needed to match mine, so they were wrapped in the same GM factory color. ONLY way you could tell was when you looked around the hidden edges. The gloss was similar and hard to tell from a factory paint job. You can buy panels of certain colors from 3M or similar, plus do a DIY situation, OR let somebody else install it. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

One realization of "the coolant as 'ground'" was when an associate (who taught at a local automotive trade school) commented that "good" coolant was necessary for the many coolant-touching sensors to give the computer a good and accurate reading. This was in the later 1980s. Might this have been a side-issue for the extended-life coolants, such as GM DEXCOOL, which have a specified lifespan of 5 yrs/100K miles? NTX5467

IF you are going to pull out the block drain plugs and drain it fully, then take the 2 gallons of green coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water to make a 4 gallon 50-50 mix to refill the block (via the thermostat housing) and then the radiator (with all of the hoses connected), plus a dry heater core, with 50-50 mix, that can be a good bit of labor involved. What I used to do was to flush the block with a garden hose (engine at hot idle and the radiator drain open), then let the radiator drain. When empty, close the drain spout, and refill the radiator with pure 100% green coolant. On the car we had, filling the a/c rated radiator usually would take 9qts of coolant, resulting in a -34 degrees F protection level. Then run the engine to purge any air out and re-check the level. Cycle repeat every two years. Worked just fine for us. The whole deal of buying 50-50 mix coolant, already mixed, is a more modern invention. Use it for top-offs and such, rather than complete "drain and fill" operations, to me. If using DEXCOOL, it is allegedly supposed to be put in the engine in a 50-50 mix orientation, according to GM. The need to change the non-DEXCOOL coolant every so often is to keep the coolant additives from degrading the solder holding the radiator and heater core together. Additives in the normal coolant keep that from happening, but when the additive package degrades, the two enemies (ethylene glycol and solder) start to fight each other . . . according to a BASF Coolant brochure I found in the 1980s. If course, if your radiator is welded aluminum or is a composite radiator, then the only solder would be in the heater core. Enjoy! NTX5467

The 4-slot hub fan clutch is what the fan clutch manufacturers went to, in the middle 1980s, to replace the dedicated-drilled solid hubs which the OEMs typically used. Perhaps there is a larger-hub OEM fan, from a later model year, of the same diameter, which can fit the new clutch assy? NTX5467

As a Holley engineer noted in a seminar I attended back in the earlier 1980s, the coil will only build enough energy to jump the spark plug gap, no more, no less. The stock coils were usually good for 30KV in the 1960s. They usually worked just fine on Street HEMIs and other HP engines, back then. But if you had a 6-71 blower on the engine, THEN you might need some extra spark energy. As I recall "Blue Streak" was Standard's "high performance" brand, but is now just morphed into their portfolio of brands. NTX5467

That "car" is a 1970s version of "Speed Racer", painted incognito green to avoid detection! Might Race Bannon's long hair wig be in the rear floorboard?

Can't forget the Batrmobile with the low-intensity flames coming out of the back!!

When I first started paying attention to chrome plating, the "best" was on OEM car bumpers. If the bumper had been reconditioned and rechromed, it was usually obvious to me. IF it was that good at all. Many variations in chrome plating back then, just as there were for vehicle painters. When I began getting involved with friends who had "show cars", then I became aware of "show chrome". There were a few shops in town that did that work, very well, as I discovered. But oin some types of body parts, it could take a few pieces to get ONE good one (especially if the base metal was "pot metal"). Then, one day in the later 1980s, I was taken with how much better Toyota pickup truck bumpers looked that similar GM items. The Toyota items just looked better/brighter, for some reason. That "reason" was the COLOR of the chrome. The GM chrome was more "whiteish" and the Toyota chrome had a blue tint to it, which made it look brighter. FIRST time I had ever noticed different colors of chrome! Then I came to realize that "show chrome" was a slightly different color than OEM chrome, in addition to the higher gloss. One year in the 1990s, I was at Mopar Nats and happened upon a space on the edge of the vendor area. It was for a chrome shop in a regional town. Of course, he had some samples of his work hanging on a board. Plus some example where the original piece had been ruined by other shops. That's when I really discovered how easy it might be for that to happen, especially on an ornate casting! The multiple layers of underlayment coatings were the issue. Too much build thickness smoothed the ornate designs of the original casting. If done correctly, the ornateness was still there. If not, they were buried. Which led me to understand that the "best chrome is the thinnest chrome", at all layers of the process. With the re-chrome looking just like "the first time" it had been chromed. I suspect that anything on a Harley should be (or normally is) "show chrome", all things considered. At the last small chrome shop I took some stuff to, the basic charge was for a certain base amount of items to be chromed. Not charged "by the piece", but "by the pound" until the vat was filled. So I got a chrome air cleaner top re-chromed, courtesy of our service manager. In the case of INTERIOR chrome, that's a whole 'nuther conversation and learning curve! Take care, NTX5467