NTX5467

I agree, a frame lift would be much better. Perhaps a page of the service manual indicating "lift points" could be copied and laminated to remain in the vehicle? Might even sell them? NTX5467

In reality, to me, this was probably the best thing to do. Especially if you need to go back there again for something. Next time, suggest they use the center of the rear axle housing to get both rear wheels off the ground. Perhaps some of the lifting blocks, as mentioned, can be stowed in the trunk, getting them out when needed. This might well not be the last time for needing them, I suspect. In the special tools we got with our Jeep-Renault Special Tools were some wooden lifting blocks to use on the rocker panel pinch welds, back in 1982 when we were a Jeep-Renault dealer for about 6 months. Perhaps you could do a short write-up for the "Riview"? One of the "things" about driving an older car, plus getting it serviced, is that most of the people who might be working on it have never seen anything like it before and treat it "as a modern car" they are used to dealing with. Of course, due to their age, they have no idea of how different they might be OR that the vehicle might be damaged by "modern techniques". SO, you have to choose the shops wisely. If you'd had the lifting blocks prior to this, you could have laid them out and kindly instructed the service people of how to use them? We might not think about these things and certainly the younger people doing the work have not been instructed to think about them either. OR to ask for special instructions. The common chassis lift points of the center of the front crossmember and the center of the rear axle housing do not exist on modern fwd cars as they did on the older (or newer) rear wheel drive cars. Many newer lifts lift on the rocker panels themselves, which would make the lifting blocks mandatory in this case. Most of the lifting blocks I've seen of late are round pucks with a slot cut across them for the pinchweld to fit into. Perhaps a piece of 4x4 fence wood might be also used, for a longer contact point on the rocker panel? To spread out the lifting force? Cutting them into 12"-18" lengths? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

For the sway bar link bushings, go polyurethane for those. It will make the bar act like it's about 20% bigger. Many sources, many in colors. NTX5467

Typically, the only time the "rated" compression ratio comes into play is for an engine blueprinted to factory specifications. Or a rebuilt engine where it is align-honed, deck surfaced, and cyl head combustion chambers are checked/adjusted for minimum cc volume. IF the engine has been rebuilt, many piston manufacturers (quietly) "de-stroked" their replacement pistons by .020" in the earlier 1990s, to help the engines better tolerate the lower octane fuels we had then. Then add the .040" thickness composite head gaskets, replacing the original .018" steel shim head gaskets which were OEM, and more effective compression ratio decreases. As a point of reference, any of the earlier engines with a 9.0CR, were supposed to use "Regular" gasoline, which was in the 93-95 Research octane range. With 10.0CR motors needing "Premium" or "Ethyl" gasoline, which usually was from 97-100 Research octane range. The later low-lead gasolines were typically 91 research octane, due to the decrease in lead content. This was back when each of the main gasoline brands had their own distribution trucks and regional tank farms. If you bought their gas, you knew it was refined to be theirs. Rather than a generic brand where the additives were added to the tank and blended on the way to the gas station. Some factory engines liked certain brands of fuel better than others, by observation, back then. Enjoy! NTX5467

NO, that formula did not exist prior to about 1972. ALL octanes quoted prior to about 1972 were for "Research Octane", the "R" in the formula. It was the easiest octane rating to make, as I understand it, as the Motor (the "M" in the formula) was the most difficult octane rating to make. In about 1957, the top "Ethyl" octane was 97 Research Octane, reaching 101 Research Octane, but mostly being 98-100 in the glory days of high compression engines in the earlier 1960s. In 1973-74, I could buy Phillips 66 FliteFuel (premium) gas in Lubbock, TX with a posted pump octane of 95.5. The highest pump octane I'd ever seen. Not sure what the Motor octane was, but apparently is was pretty good as the car I was driving (with a rated 9.2CR) was more responsive on it, plus we were closer to their Phillips, TX refinery, possibly? Posted octane (by the above formula) will decrease with altitude, typically. One other consideration is that the Nailhead Buicks, with their better mix of cast iron than other GM divisions, needed the "hardened seats" less, as a result. To the point that when the GM edict that from April 15, 1971, all GM engines would have to have hardened seats and tolerate the new low-lead fuels which were introduced back then. Buick resisted as their cyl heads had better metal, but the GM edict stayed and Buick had to comply. So their cast iron mix was "dumbed-down" to comply as a result. One issue with adding hard seats to Buick Nailhead cyl heads is the closeness of the water jacket to the exhaust valve seats. Such that "hitting water" is very possible when cutting the heads for the hard seat inserts. Back in the earlier 1960s, Flying A gasolines and exclusively "no-lead" gasolines. It was basically an east cost brand, as I recall. I do not recall hearing of and cyl head problems from using that fuel. Additionally, "white gas" (i.e., no-lead) was available at higher altitudes as that's all the octane needed "up there" for many motors. At lower altitudes, some gas stations had it available from a tank, for outboard boat motors and such. Along about 1974, I found a copy of a Chilton magazine in the college library. In one issue, they had an engineering study which Chrysler had done on a '73 Town & Country station wagon with their heaviest trailer towing package. They hooked the car to a big trailer (max recommended weight) and ran it around the test track until it would not go any more. High load, high throttle. After 12K miles of such high-load, high-speed action, the cyl heads were junk from valve seat recession and "wear". This was on cyl heads with normal valve seats, non-induction hardened. For a normal-use car which very, very seldom sees WOT minimally, you can easily project those mileages upward a good bit. Then add in more mileage for the better cast iron mix that Buick used back then. Later, in a major RV magazine, the issue of "lead replacement additives" was discussed in an article. Seems there are two major types of lead replacement additives. One based on "an oil" and the other based "on sodium". A key thing in the article was the issue of engine loading (which a large motorhome would see, consistently). After all of their discussion of how each type of additive might work, I don't recall an "silver bullet" being mentioned. One of the major octane booster brands also came out with a fuel additive termed "Real Lead". In order to put a tank of unleaded gas up to even the low-lead specs, it would take a whole quart to do so. At about $7.95 a quart. Seems the feds regulate how much lead is in those lead additives, which might have resulted in some additive makers opting to not use real TEL in their products. As to upper engine lubrication, there have always been "top oil" additives for gasoline, at least over the past 70 years. Used to be sold as such by some oil companies at their gas stations. In more modern times, things like Marvel Mystery Oil, at recommended concentrations, can do the same thing. Just as adding "two-stroke motor oil" to the gas (1 ounce per 5 gallons) has been lauded in other forums I'm in. As such "motor oil" is meant to go in gasoline anyway. In the synthetic variations, this might be a better and more available option? It and MMO might help protect fuel system parts from ethanol-related problems, possibly? Whatever works for y'all! NTX5467

Yes, no doubt the tires starting at 24psi would build up several pound after running a while. But with the decreased flex of 30psi (cold) to start with, they built up less as they were flexing less at these times. Whatever works, NTX54657

Some modern radials have pressure ratings up to 45psi stamped in the sidewall as "MAX PRES", but using the older-style 30psi (cold) should work well, with respect to ride, handling, and longevity. Might even lower the rears down to 28psi, but not the fronts, or add 2psi for 32 psi front and 30psi rear. Try and see what you like best. In later owners manuals, the 24psi recommendation is for a soft ride and decent handling. If speeds above 70mph were to be driven, then the base recommendation was increased to 28psi. With any significant load in the trunk, with more passengers, up to 32psi (which was the old bias-ply "max load recommendation" for the vehicle). With the old bias-ply tires, the more air pressure the more firm the tire became. Less flexing over bumps and in turns, or under hard braking. Less flex also meant longer tread wear and slightly better fuel economy, too. Regards, NTX5467

On those cars, "navigation" had a module that ran it, plus a different antenna to receive signals as to your position. Not just a "bolt-in" situation unless you get EVERYTHING off of the donor car. A GM dealership parts department might have an illustration of the navigation system hardware in the parts database. Even IF all of the items were still available new or from a salvage yard, it would NOT be an inexpensive situation, plus having to "tear the car apart" to put it all in. This is not a recommended upgrade due to the complexity of the system.! If the car has the updated OnSTAR system (updated to use current cell phone signals), you can subscribe to "Turn by Turn" navigation as an option. Completely auditory with no screen, as the original OnSTAR was before screens became popular with other brands. Not to forget that many cell phone brands and providers now have "driving instructions" and maps available on them, too. PLUS Google Maps has "Point A to Point B" routings available, with details of distances and which way to turn, when. This can be done before driving. Take care, NTX5467

Adding gas due to a leak or component replacement? This is not usually something which fails on those cars or other similar systems. Still curious, NTX5467

What issue are you seeking to fix? How did you determine the expansion valve needed to be changed? Just curious, NTX5467

1967 was the first year of the "GM Mark of Excellence" logo. The logo which was on the ignition key square head and ususally a decal on the driver's door shell, near the lock mechanism in plain sight. The B&S keys had a thicker cross-section than the later, thinner "GM" keys. BUT they still used the same letter blank designations. So no problem to cut a later key for use in a B&S era lock cylinder. In the later "H" blanks for door keys, Buick had one which was not square, but had an additional wide end on it. In the parts book, specific to 1990s Buick models only. Obviously, it was easier to hold and turn for "older hands"? But the KEY thing is that the correct blank code is used, no matter the year of the vehicle. I always let other work associates cut keys. One guy was very meticulous about how he rebuilt lock cylinders and such. I wanted no part of that! UNTIL . . . I bought a 1968 Buick service manual and read the section of how to read the cut depths on the keys, to duplicate them. THEN . . . it all made sense. I soon learned to cut keys accurately. We still had some of the old B&S blanks in various designations, so when it was for an older car, I used them, which made the customers happy. Otherwise, I used the square blanks which they could copy onto an earlier blank if desired. I lived though the transition (with the existing grinder/duplicator) to the modern 10-cut keys. When the side-cut keys happened, we bought them pre-cut from GM. Later, we got a NC cutter for them. Even with them, there are 5 "cut depths". Enjoy! NTX5467

As stated, don't depart just because you sold your Riviera. Think of the ROA and this forum as more of "an enthusiast organization" rather than "an owner's club". An enthusiast organization where vehicle ownership is not required, just an enthusiasm for the vehicles is all that's needed. The key thing in these forums is sharing "collective" knowledge and insights. For the betterment of all. Take care, enjoy life, and do things which make you smile. NTX5467

Another source for a "black battery" is Interstate. They are in their catalog AND they supply them to several import brand dealerships as OEM batteries. Toyota, Lexus, and Hyundai (for sure), plus some others I suspect. Same batteries, just the labels are different for OEM warranty replacement issues. Enjoy! NTX5467

Sits low like a GS. Must be that "performance" 3.42 rear axle ratio?

Very possibly "no kit" for a Big Buick, per se. Might have to look several places and possibly for a Oldsmobile 98 or Cadillac DeVille, although the deck lid weatherstrip could be for a Chevy. Check the roof rail shape and length as they could very well be the same as the other large-body full-size Olds and Cadillacs. Very possibly the same for the door weatherstrips (on the doors). The deck lid weatherstrip would most probably be "roll goods" so "cut to length". A good place to start would be Steele Rubber. What is the general condition of the weatherstrips on your car? What condition are the ends and such on the roof rail items? Might need them in order to glue "roll goods" straight pieces to them is the reason I inquired. IF you had a Chevy Impala or Caprice, the roof rail and door weatherstrips might be easier to find, typically. Take care, NTX5467

Opticlean and Kleer View might explain the differences in colors. Thanks for that comment, @rocketraider. Take care, NTX5467

R-134a systems are more sensitive to over-charge than R-12 systems are. The amount of R-134a is usually about 10% less, as things end up, than for R-12. The POA valve is what regulates evaporator temperature via pressure regulation. Sometimes they can fail or stick. Might try tapping it first. Rebuilt POAs are out there. The POA Eliminator item is to be avoided as it makes the system into a later-style Cycling Compressor Orifice Tube system. If tapping the POA helps things, they CAN be adjusted. In some years, the adjustment is on the inlet side, in other years it is on the outlet side. Turn the adjustment screw 3/4 turn CCW and that should put the evaporator pressure about 1.5psi different from the R12 adjustment, and should result in cooling close to what the R12 system did. I found a thread in the old www.ackits.com forum, back in the early 2000s. That adjustment trick works for all GM systems, plus Chrysler EPR systems and Ford system which use the GM system in the later 1970s. With age, the rubber in the valves can age and fail, but rebuilt POAs are now available. That particular website is administered and run by some people in the AC profession in Arizona. I found lots of interesting information in there, back then. Forum posters who did the re-adjustment all claimed to get 40 degree vent temperatures in 80 degree F weather. Enjoy! NTX5467

As I mentioned, Buick has been known to put specific part numbers into TSBs (i.e., Service Bulletins) rather than put then in the parts book for all to see. I found this out when we got a Regal GN into our shop and needed some GN-specific parts. We got the Buick franchise a year too late, it seems, for us to have gotten that particular TSB. Needed a particular body-to-convertible top rubber seal for a last-gen Riviera convertible executive car our Finance Manager had wangled to buy when it came out of service. After looking everywhere, it was revealed that that part number was in a TSB, which I had to call a particular person in Buick to get the part number on. Not fun tracking these things down. If it had been a Chevy, it would have been in the book. Just as the speedometer gear charts are. When GM went to Internet-based service information, it seemed a bit unfavorable as there were no hard copies or CDs to consult as archived information. As things have progressed in 30 years, it is quite nice, provided things can be kept up with, IF one wants to. One bad thing is that labor times were in a similar format, during a time when techs were paying attention to changes being made, discovering that their times had been cut, suddenly and without notice. As to "getting in the way" on the Interstate, that now happens at the posted speed limit. Yet there are still lots of trucks which run the normal 65mph or slower. For the first 5 seconds either side of 60 seconds = 60mph, the speed relationship to time is pretty accurate, as 55 seconds is 65mph and 65 seconds is 55mph. Past that 5 second mark, the relationship moves too far away without having a calculator or speed chart. The other things is that after, at least in DFW, you get farther away from the metro area, after traffic settles down into a cruise mode, the terrain gets a bit flatter and easier to maintain a constant speed on for 5-10 miles. When I was starting to do speed calibration and odometer checks, that's what I did. Now, with GPS, results can be more instantaneous. Speedometers will also have a bit of inaccuracy built into them. Tires wear and will decrease circumference as they go from 11/32" new tread depth to 2/32" legal tread depth, for example. As the speed indicator is run by magnetism, the ACSpark Plug specs for speed readings were a bit wide, to me, at something like "5mph slow to 2mph fast" on the speedometer cable-drive "speed checker" tool. In about 1962, Oldsmobile had "an idea" to get around the speedometer gears in the transmission, taking the cable drive off of the lh front wheel speed, mechanically. That didn't last long. Back then, I figured that using a signal generator (as in a driven electric generator) to generate voltage to run the speedometer electrically. Then just using resistors to fine-tune the speed readings. I think some of the newer aftermarket digital gauge clusters use something like that. End result is that for all of the variables, we CAN have some pretty accurate speedometers and odometers. Just need to verify how accurate by various means. Enjoy! NTX5467

I use the revs/mile spec for comparison to modern sizes of tires. The 7.60x15 size shows 738 revs/mile, which equates to a modern P225/75R-15 size. This is important as it relates to the number of revolutions/mile the speedometer cable makes, which relates to odometer calibration and accuracy. The reason I'm concerned about odometer accuracy is that the odometer is geared to the speedometer's rear speed cup. The speed reading (which results) is done magnetically by the bar magnet in the rear speed cup. That means that such magnetism can be varied with what I term a "zapper" so the speed reads as accurately as it can . . . a purely cut and try situation. Police-certified speedometers (in genuine law enforcement vehicles from the factory) are accurate to + and - 1mph across the complete speed range. Due to a "close-tolerance" clockspring and calibration of the magnetism, as I understand it. The reason I know this is that I ordered two police speedometer heads for my '80 Chrysler Newport. Each came with a paper detailing the accuracy of the unit. I didn't want to look at an 85mph speedometer all of the time, plus they were inexpensive. One other reason I'm concerned about the accuracy of the odometer is that that reading is what fuel economy is run off of. Taking some runs on the Interstate at a constant 60mph, checking the milemarkers after 5 miles (although 10 miles is easier to do the calculations from) checks the speed accuracy. 60 secs/mile at 60mph velocity. From what I've seen, all of the tire size comparators operate on "exact" measurements. In an article on the then-new Appha-numeric tire sizes of 1968, where it gave gov't specs for such, it noted that a 7% variance from the minimum specs listed in the article. In looking at the tire specs charts in TireRack.com, no two tire brands in the same size have an exactly the same number of revs/mile specs. Many off by a few revs, which is good for a flexible product, but none exactly the same, by observation. Y'all enjoy! NTX5467

Should be an o-ring around the basic speedometer gear "plug" outside. Then a smaller "lip seal" which seals the speedometer gear shaft. As soft and flimsy as that gear shaft seal is, it's a wonder it seals at all for years. According to the 1955 Buick AMA Specs, a 7.10-15 tire is rated at 750revs/mile at 30mph. Currently, a P225/70R-15 Radial TA is rated at about 754 revs/mile @45mph. Which puts a P215/75R-15 in the same ballpark. GPS can measure distance, but considering how different some of the Google maps locations are for a physical address, distance might be a bit suspect. I'd feel better about using the Interstate mile markers for a distance check, personally. Enjoy! NTX5467

Yes, it seems Buick had a "bad habit" of putting specific model information into "Service Bulletins", even in the later years. As the first year Regal GN turbo cars and the "end of the series", last gen Riviera convertible top weatherstrips. Something in the corporate DNA? I suspected the speedometer gear specs might be in the AMA Specifications, but they were not. Yet, that tire size and axle ratio combination could be found on other GM cars with the THM400 automatic, no doubt, if the OP was only wanting to verify what was in his car might be accurate. Otherwise, match the color codes (which should also relate to the tooth-counts) on each gear. FWIW, the Buick parts book only lists two drive gears, a 17 tooth and 19 tooth, with no mention of axle ratio or tire size. Driven gears, there are many, with only the color and tooth counts listed, with no mention of axle ratio or tire size, in the transmission parts section related for the THM400 automatic transmission. Take care, NTX5467

All the Buick parts manual has is a listing of the drive and driven gear part numbers and colors. No listing of axle ratios and tire sizes, in a chart as other divisions have done. I'll look in another resource . . . NTX5467

My late uncle bought a new '62 Impala station wagon. It had the factory windshield washer system, with the glass bottle of wiper fluid held by the holder. He was in the Air Force and had been to some base in a sparsely-populated area. He laughed and said that some enlisted people had used those bottles to bring alcoholic liquids on base, until the MPs started to search the car for such. When they investigated the solvent jar, it wasn't windshield washer fluid in it. The bottle got emptied at the guard shack, on the ground before he could return to his residence. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Rock Auto shows a GM Genuine fuel pump, as a separate replaceable item. No sending unit, just the pump. About $70.00 + freight. Reuse existing strainer, it appears. What is the issue with your existing sending unit? Just curious. As the pump kit is still around, have you checked your local GM dealer for availability and such? NTX5467

Here's another layer of diagnosis, but you'll need a good digital meter to do it. With the engine stopped, check the voltage to various parts of the engine and body, from the battery. This is your reference value. Start the car as normal and re-check at the same places. This should be greater due to the alternator and voltage regulator action. When the no-start issue appears, get the meter and check the voltages again. If they are lower than the first "engine stopped" value, clean and re-connect all electrical connections in the normal ground circuits of the battery. Including the battery posts themselves. Recheck voltages with the engine not running. Then turn the ignition switch to "run" and re-check. Start the car and re-check. In all of these voltage checks, check the voltage from the battery to the end of the cables attached to it, too. I had a strange situation on my '77 Camaro (which I bought new). One night, while driving around, I came to a stop sign and stopped. I noticed the engine speed was dropping, so I blipped the throttle a few times to get the rpm back up. When the speed was dropping, the radio made a "motor boat" engine sound through the speakers. Once the rpm came back up, radio sounded normal. This was strange and "different". When similar conditions happened, a few blips of the throttle (in gear, against the brake) always fixed it. Then it got into a "hot soak no start" situation. I thought of a bad neutral safety switch first, but that did not change anything. Letting the car sit and cool down always fixed that. I was always on the watch for these things, choosing when to shut off the engine and park. One day, I drove the car to lunch at home. I noticed the a/c fan was not working. When I got home, I got out the meter and started to check voltages. The voltages were down about .3 volts from normal, with the engine running. As I had the hood up doing the checks, suddenly the blower motor came on and the voltages returned to normal. I saw no changes in what I had been looking at, although the voltages were now normal. I finally decided to start with the ground cable from the battery to the alternator bracket. It was OEM production and had nothing in its appearance to indicate a problem. BUT when I changed it, all of the issues vanished. Something internal to the cable, obviously, under the insulation. On my 2005 Impala, it got a starting issue, which was "normal with age" for those cars (and other GM cars which used the same ignition switch, in the instrument panel on this car). A new switch and "better" termination of the wires in it, was the GM TSB fix. On a non-GM car I have, it started to have an intermittent "no start" issue. I traced it down to the bulkhead connector for the wire going to the ignition switch. When a sudden no start issue happened, that was the place I learned to look first. Plugged it in more firmly and things happened as they should. Through all of your diagnostics, DO clean the battery terminals. Even a slight, insignificant-looking, thin layer of grunge between the posts and battery terminals can cause a no-start problems too. On a modern high-amp system, such things can result in the charging system check being less than spec by about 10%, as we discovered in the shop in the 1990s. Experiences and thoughts, NTX54677