Jim

Mac, I have a good used ABS unit and will send you an email. I am away from home for a couple of days so I will send the email from a friends computer. Jim

I do have all parts for a '90 Reatta but also am not sure which piece you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

You should be able to put a little pressure both ways on the output shaft of the gear box with a crescent wrench. It will move a little but if they don't move more than about 20 degrees then the rollers are probably still good. When they go bad the shaft will rotate quite a bit.

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the switches you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Welcome to the group. You will find many helpful people here if you have questions and if you need any parts I have several Reatta parts cars and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I am sure you could get a belt from an auto parts store. You will have to measure around the various pulley to get a length and then it will still be a guessing game until you get one the right length. I do have a good used compressor for your '90 and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Brian, The radios are pretty good in Reattas but they do occasionally go bad. I do have a good one and I have sent you an email. The radio is located in the console below the ashtray area. You will need to remove the console top. The shift knob has a small clip in the front of it that needs to be pulled out and then you can pull up and remove the knob. The bezel around the shifter is just held in with some push-in tabs and will come up with a little careful prying. The console top is then held in with some screws in front and some under the storage box insert under the armrest. There is also one screw inside the ashtray area.

Please send me an email. I am the assistant director of the Reatta Division. Bob Popyk would also like to have you at his get together on Wednesday in Syracuse. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com and Bob can be reached at rpopyk@aol.com

After giving it a little more thought I agree, and emailed Brenda, it would not be the pass key system as Harry said, the engine will not crank. I also do not believe it is the cam sensor because the engine will always run with a bad sensor or magnet, just run poorly. It is not uncommon for the ignition modules to go bad and again as Harry said it could also be the crank sensor, although personally I have not seen that one be a problem.

Brenda, I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I will send you an email at the last address I have for you. BxxxGxxx@aol.com

I have gone through a similar situation a couple of times before and can't remember if the car cranks and won't start or won't crank when the security system does not see the chip on the key. What I am trying to say is, if you have another ignition key try using that one. I do know if there is a problem with in the chip/security system there is a 5 minute time delay before the car will start again.

Please do come and join us in Batavia. The main show will be Saturday morning with all Buicks lined up on the field. For the Reatta rendezvous there will be about 50 Reattas leaving Batavia on Thursday afternoon for a tour and meal. I or Ed Farnell will have to know the final dinner count on the Wednesday before.

I would be very surprised it the switch was bad but I do have a good one if you really need one. My guess is the emergency brake cable is not tight because of worn rear brakes. There is a simple way to check this. The emergency brake cable is right under the rocker panel on the drivers side. Manually give the cable a pull under the rocker panel just under the drivers side door and I will bet the red light goes out. If this happens then you either need to adjust the cable, right under the car near the drivers door or put new pads in the rear brakes.

Wayne, As Ed said, the pieces are very hard to find. Do not "give" it away. Ebay is probably your best bet but put a reserve on it. You've lost enough money, now it is time to get some of it back. Jim

Quote--- "no luck today, i posted a ad in the FS section here. Mr. Finn never called me back or e-mailed me" The message on my answering machine was Tuesday night at about 5:30 PM and the post saying I never called back or emailed was at 2:51 PM the next day. I didn't realize I was supposed to drop everything I was doing and be available every moment for parts. I was away from home from early Tuesday until last night. I went out and checked several ignition modules on my shelf and every one of them has a 14 pin connector and 12 wires are used, 6 on either side of the stud. I rarely post prices here but I do have the connector for $ 19 and that includes Priority Mail shipping. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Ed's method is the best way but I would like to add a way of disconnecting the hose. The hose from the reservoir comes out of the bottom of the reservoir and loops around and connects on a plastic tee on the pump. This "T" will break if you pull on it too hard. The best way I have found is take a knife and cut the hose as close to the "T" as possible and then cut the remaining one inch or so of the hose off the "T". The hose is plenty long enough to slide it back up on the "T"after all the fluid has run out of the res.

Barney, Ed sent us all emails on May 24 and at that time he had 44 Reattas registered for Batavia, and when I talked to him the other night I think he said he had 48. Jim

It was the hose. I just got off the phone with my nephew and he replaced the brake hose and everything now works good. He said he could not even blow through the old hose. The only way for the fluid to return back to the master cylinder from the caliper is for the release of pressure at the master cylinder and then any pressure in the caliper will be released back. If there is even a slight blockage then the higher pressures will be released but just a small amount can remain due to a bad hose and that will keep a little pressure on the piston and drag the wheel.

Wayne, R134a naturally will not be as cool as R12. I believe the pressures from R134a are lower than R12 and so the pressure switch is close to tripping when using R134. A couple of things to try might be a pressure switch designed for R134a and/or try a new orfice. Since you can add R134a yourself you could also try adding a little more than is normal and see what happens. I sent you an email about a week ago. Please give me a call or email me your home phone number. I have a windshield available. Jim

Thank you thank you thank you. The burgundy convertible I drove to Plano last summer I sold to my nephew and about 3 weeks ago he started having the same problem. He replaced the caliper twice, once with a used one from me and then a new one. He would drive the car for a while and no problems. Then his wife would take it and the wheel would lock up. She is so disgusted she wants to sell the car. We talked about it this morning and I suggested he unplug the ABS computer and see if that would solve the problem but both lights were staying off so I didn't really think that would cure the problem. I just got off the phone with him after reading this series and he is going to look at the hoses. I will post the results.

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the vent window you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I am in Duluth MN.

I am guessing the car sold for more than we are seeing. The person probably stopped the auction because the the high bidder made an offer and part of the agreement was to stop the auction early.

Continue on in the diagnostics and in the ECM section go to near the end and it will ask you if you want to reset the codes. Say yes. The run the car again and if you get another E041 then you do have a problem with your cam sensor. Actually it is common for them to go bad. This code is totally separate from the AC on your car. Just above the crank shaft pulley mounted in the timing case is the cam sensor. On the timing gear inside the case is the magnet that operates the sensor. The magnet is held to the timing gear by a plastic holder and the magnet deteriorates and falls off. You will need to replace the magnet by taking off the timing cover. I and some others have also replaced the magnet by going through the hole and using JB Weld, glued the new magnet to the old plastic holder.

I can and will send you George Madsens email address.

Domenick and Lori Clemente will also be there. Domenick is the director of the Reatta Division.