Jim

David, The problem is either in the touch screen buttons or the circuit board on the side of the CRT. I have a good complete unit and will send will send you and email.

My opinion-----------SCAM

Derrick, From my experience you are going to need to replace the whole system on the firewall. The computer and wheels sensors are only for the ABS function. If you are driving and the red light is out that tells me the relay, pressure switch and accumulator are good but you have corrosion in the master cylinder and valve body. Another reason the above items I believe are good is because in normal stopping you have the normal power assist but under an emergency stop the internals of the hydraulic system are failing. This is why it is so important for anyone with an '88-90 Reatta to change the brake fluid ever couple of years. Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture and holds it causing corrosion. I have all the parts you need and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The Reatta with the Cadillac 4.9 engine is currently for sale. It is advertised in the local Minneapolis Auto Shopper. The ad reads--- 1990 Buick Reatta, V8 Cadillac eldorado 4.9 engine. One of a kind, fast, very clean car, must sell! 30,000 miles, $ 4900 651-270-1318 I saw this car several years ago and under the hood it looks like a factory installation. The car is white but I don't remember the color of the interior.

Over the years there have been several posts about how bad DHL shipping is. I always use FedEx ground and am VERY satisfied with them. UPS, even though they are a little expensive, isn't too bad. My first experience with DHL was last Thursday. A person in Florida need a small part immediatlely because his brakes were out and he had a rental car. He had a DHL account so he sent me an envelope over night marked "urgent" 'deliver by 10:30 AM'. I had the parts ready and waited all day for the DHL driver to show up so I could put the parts in the envelope and give it right back to the driver. He never did show up. At 4 PM I was leaving home and there at the end of my driveway hanging on my mail box was the "urgent" envelope. The lazy uncaring driver didn't even drive up my driveway. I called DHL to register my complaint and I was told their only requirement was to get it to the address. They picked up his return envelope on Friday and he probably won't get his part until Monday causing him to have to rent a car an extra 3-4 days. The bottom line is if you want good service use an American company, FedEx ground, UPS or the USPS, not DHL.

Actually it is a fair deal if a person gets it for the starting price. The wheel is junk. I sent 43 wheels to the scrap yard last year that were better than that one but at todays price for aluminum $ 15 is exactly what the wheel is worth for it's weight. He is only charging $ 10 for shipping so now you have $ 25 invested. The wheel is worth $ 15 scrap so you are getting a center cap for $ 10. If a person is missing a center cap on a "driver" that is a pretty cheap cap and you could probably live with the cracked center. I have centers, and there are always centers available on Ebay, if a person wanted to replace the center. Thats my 2 cents worth.

Thanks Nic for the recommendation. I do have several Reatta parts cars. The email address Nic listed it wrong though, I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

On the first Reatta I owned I had the same problem and had to replace the CRT/touch screen. I now have several Reatta parts cars and have a good CRT/touch screen available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have to agree with 88 89 Reattajohn on the resistance values of the twilight sensors not being in the 500 to 1K ohm range. With my Fluke digital ohmmeter I checked 7 used sensors, the results were--- 5K-7K, 10K-15K, 10K-16k, 175K-1.5M, 265K-3M, 350K-3M and 400K-4M ohms. I do not know what is correct but will do some testing in one of my cars to see which ones work and which ones don't work. There is a test proceedure in the shop manual that can be done on a car with a touch screen and you can check voltages to see if the sensor is working. The test is in section 8A-88-5 Table D.

I am pretty sure George and Carole will be in Naples all of February and Possibly Linda and I will also be in the area about that time.

I didn't see any image or a way to view an image but if the impact bar, the bumper, is not bent but just pushed back you can probably bring if back forward. Both the front and rear bumpers are mounted to the body by energy absorbing supports. They should come back out all the way by themselves but sometimes they stick. If you can get some kind of a scissors jack or something like that up inside between the bumper and the body you can push the bumper back out. A couple of years ago I was doing some work to my neighbor's very nice '89 Riviera and when I went to take it back to him I backed right into the bumper of my daughters car, where it wasn't supposed to be parked. I pushed in his bumper and sort of distorted the filler panel. I got out my trusty scissors jack and pushed out his bumper and to this day he doesn't know anything ever happened.

Thanks Robert for the recommendation and I do have some rings but I also agree with Vincent that he can probably find some in a local junk yard cheaper than me sending some to Canada. They are a standard stainless ring and used on many other cars in the '70s and '80s. The only thing to watch for is make sure the four mounting tabs are in the same place as on the Reattas. Sometimes they are on the four corners and sometimes two on the corners and two on one of the long sides.

You probably will not fit in a Reatta with a factory sunroof as they take a few inches out of the headroom.

I am not sure what other cars parts might fit but I do have several Reatta parts cars and have all of the parts you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com and please include your zip code for shipping purposes.

I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good twilight sensor/photo cell assembly available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I do not have and good sunroof cables available at this time but they are available new from your Mazda dealer. Just order them for an '89 RX7

This is a classic case of someone getting royally screwed at a GM dealership by an incompetent mechanic and a crooked shop foreman. As Vincent Vega said, what they were supposed to do in the first place was read the ABS codes through the ALDL connector. The BCM and the master cylinder, 99% of the time, would not fix a yellow light being on. The valve body on the side of the unit could cause the problem but reading the codes first would have pointed to that unit. The problem is more than likely in the ABS computer in the trunk ( EBCM ), the sensors at the wheels or some connections in between. I do have good EBCMs and wheel sensors if it turns out you have a faulty one. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The IPCs ( instrument panel cluster ) on the '90-91s were probably the most problematic item on those year Reattas whereas the IPCs on the '88-89s were pretty good but do still go bad. I have several Reatta parts cars and have good IPCs available. I would doubt the problems are weather related but simply the IPC went bad. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Wally, I sent you an email. Jim

I was away from home since last Tuesday and just got home last night. I do have a good window and sent you an email. Jim

Jon, I just sent you a couple of pictures of the hold downs for the cowl cover. I will include a pair of them with the manifolds. I will be away from home starting today until Sunday. Jim

I just picked up one of the first '88s made, it is vin 1G4EC11C4JB900106. Vin # 106 is listed in the data base as being a black car but the data base is incorrect. This car appears to have never been in an accident and is red with a tan interior,black mouldings and has the 16 way seats. The car has 138,000 miles on it. There is a rust hole on the back fender and some surface rust on other parts of the car. I just drove the car 500 miles home from Chicago and it runs and drives very good. The car being a low vin has some distinctive features and if anyone is doing research on early vins send me an email and I can answer questions on this car. One of the items I found surprising is the seat belt escutcheons on the rear pillars do not have a hole in them for the Phillips screw like all the others. I bought the car to part out but am reluctant to do so as it is such a low vin. I would sell the car for $ 1200 even though it is worth more than that in parts but may do so as it seems to have a new ABS unit on it and I have an opportunity to sell that unit. If anyone is interested in the car please email me or post it here but I will be away from home from Tuesday until Sunday Oct 23. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

It is very hard to find good used ones and I do not have any extras but Barney Eaton does have a very good reproduction available for much less than the cost of a new one. He can be reached at barney@texas.net

I received a call yesterday about a '90 Select 60 that the family would like to sell. The car is located in NJ but was originally bought in Eugene OR. It was owned by the dealership owners wife for a few years and then sold the father of the current owner. This is the first time the car has been offered for sale. The last digits of the vin are 4726. It has 72,000 miles on it and is described as being in excellent condition. Never driven in winters and always garaged. The owner would like to get $ 14K for it and he can be reached at defastov@uri.edu or you can call David at 401-789-8079

It is possible to take the unit apart and clean the contacts and you may be successful, but if not, I have several Reatta parts cars and do have a good ECC available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinteret.com

Each of the parts books by date have different parts and numbers so when Padgett mentioned page 10-52 that is a picture of the window and all the parts but my book didn't match up to the numbers. The main window has a "T" bonded to the lower corner of the glass and this T rides in a plastic track in the vent window frame. This T keeps the window in place. If the window is coming out of the tracks the T has probably broken off or separated from the glass. This is very common. The only solution is to replace the glass as there is no way to re-bond the T to the glass. It is possible also that the track is bad in the vent frame but not likely. Doug, I sent you an email and you can respond to me at jfinn@cpinternet.com