Jim

R codes are SIR codes and cannot be cleared from the ECC or disconnecting the battery. They need to be cleared with a scan tool plugged into the ALDL. Your B 552 is a "BCM keep alive memory error" Code B 552 does not necessarily indicate a fault but is a normal occurrence anytime the battery power or ground to the BCM has been interrupeted. Code B 552 cannot be cleared from memory in the normal manner. Code B 552 can only be cleared if it is not current. Under normal conditions, the code will become history by the following--- Key in "lock" Wait 5 seconds Key "on" re-enter Diagnostics This code should now be history, and can be cleared in the normal manner. This code could set if the system voltage drops below 8 volts at the BCM terminal "1C9" Possible causes for this are--- Faulty charging system Faulty starter system Extreme cold weather Jump starting vehicle. One similiarity I did notice is your SIR codes and this B code are both related to low or no voltage problems.

'90-91 Reattas--------- There is a much easier way to clear the codes than disconnecting the negative cable and this way you do not lose your radio and clock settings. Turn on the key and on your ECC ( climate control module ) push the "off" and temperature up ( up arrow ) at the same time and hold them until the car goes into the diagnostic mode. You will see all of the lights on the IPC light up and the trouble codes will then be read out where the mileage usually is. Write down the codes as they go by. They go by pretty fast so write them down quickly and watch for the next. First you will get the engine codes eg. Exxx, then you will get the body codes eg. Bxxx then some IPC codes eg. Rxxx and maybe an SIR code. If any code has an "h" after it that means it is a code in history and not current. No "h" means it is a current code. After all the codes have displayed you will get a Ec? this means do you want to diagnose the engine computer. Pressing the Fan down arrow you will be telling the computer no, the fan up arrow means yes. If you did get any Ec codes and you want to clear them, when you get the Ec? push yes and then it will ask you questions, keep pushing no until it asks if you want to clear the E codes then push yes. If you have no E codes and want to go to the B codes when it asks you Ec? push the fan down button for no and it will then ask you Bc, and you can push yes. It will then ask you questions and you continue pushing no until it ask CLR b code and you push the up fan for yes. You cannot hurt anything or screw up anything by doing this and if you make a mistake simply turn off the key and start over. You can also go back to normal by pressing the "bi-level" button. 88-89 Reattas------ BCM means Body Computer Module and controls the functions of the body. ECM means Engine Computer Module and controls the functions of the engine. IPC means Instrument Panel Cluster. With the key on, engine running or not, go the the climate screen on the CRT and press and hold the off and warm buttons at the same time. The service engine soon lamp will light and the ECM codes will be listed followed by the BCM codes and then the IPC codes. They go by quite fast so you may want to write them down. Any code with a "h" after it will be a code that was current, but is not now, and is listed a "history" code. Any code that does not have an "h" is a current code. ECM codes will start with a "e" and then 2 digits, BCM with a "b" etc. After the codes are listed the screen will say ECM? This means do you want to diagnose the ECM. If there were "e" codes push "yes" if not, push "no" and the screen will go to the BCM? If there are ECM codes after pushing "yes" it will ask several questions. Keep pushing "no" until the question "ECM code reset" comes up and then push "yes". You can go from the ECM to the BCM and then to the IPC and clear any codes. You can't hurt anything by doing this proceedure and even if you make a mistake simply push "end" or shut off the key and everything will go back to normal.

There are two pieces, a cap and and an insert that the cap snaps onto. They are still available from GM and I also have some NOS ones. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Copart is very strict on their rules and only register bidders are allowed to view the cars and only the cars that are being sold at their next sale. All other cars in the lot that are awaiting sales are not viewable by anyone other than Copart employees. According to their web site they only are showing one Reatta and it is scheduled to sell this coming Thursday. Burgundy/burgundy '90. Looking at the pictures my guess is it looks like this car had salt water sprayed on it because it is completely covered in a white substance but the interior looks very good as if nothing got inside the car. On second look, there is white stuff under the hood so maybe it did get submerged.

The low speed fan comes on at 214 degrees and the high speed fan comes on at 226 degrees. Both of these are far less that the second mark from the top.

I have some good used ones. jfinn@cpinternet.com

The '91s did have black caps and not the grey like the '88-90s..

The caps are a light grey. There are three styles, one with a round top, one with a small knob on the top and one with a larger knob on the top so air could be let out of a valve stem. The caps are the standard size you see on most valve stems, about 3/8 inch tall. There were some used on late '90s cars that were about 1/2 or 3/4 inch high and these would be wrong. For judging any of the three styles are OK. Points are only taken off if the caps are not light grey. See the attachment for a picture of the round top style.

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the vent window you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Copart is a national salvage auction company with sales facilities in most states. To buy at Copart you must have a auto dealers license and be registered with Copart.

I have a copy of each year of the shop manuals and I also have a copy of both the BCA judging manual and the Reatta judging manual. Because I have these I have never needed to go online for information but occasionally I get requests for information that is in these books. I found the BCA judging manual at buickclub.org but not the others. I also found the link to the Reatta division was more than 2 years out of date at this site and when clicked on the link to the Reatta division I got " page not found" Can someone tell me where to find the Reatta judging manual online and the shop manuals online?

The red '90 evidently has not been inventoried yet or???????? as it is not listed on Coparts web site. The burgundy '90 may have been repainted as I see in the pictures the mirrors appear to be painted burgundy and the stripe is wrong and is not the original. The antenna is broken, one center cap is missing, and it looks like someone stole the radio out of the car because the broken bezel and ECC are just hanging there.

I have 4 green '91s and am not sure what you are asking but can give you a little info. The cars were painted with a basecoat/clearcoat. The factory paint code for green '91s is WA9806. This is the code on the bottom of the service parts label. This color was also used on '92 and 94-97 Buicks and Oldsmobiles 48, '92-97 Pontiacs 48 and '93-96 Chevrolets 48. They all used the WA9806 code. This info came off a can of PPG Deltron base coat. Their number is DBU 4457sc. Cadillac is not listed on my paint can. You could go to an automotive paint store and look up the factory codes for the green Reattas ( WA 9806 ) and then look up the code for the green Allantes and compare the numbers to see if it is the same color. Probably not though as the can would have listed Cadillacs also.

Without the pen, flashlight and tire gauge it is at about what it is worth. If you need just an owners manual ( just the book ) they are often on Ebay or you can buy new ones from Helm. helminc.com

In regard to the fuel gauge sensor, just drive the car for a while and see if it corrects itself. The sending unit in the tank can get slightly corroded if the car sits for a while and the tank is low. After several fills and emptying I would bet the gauge will start working again.

When I am in my plane I always try and avoid objects on the ground and other aircraft in the air although one time putting it back in the hangar I put one little scratch in the wing tip. I have some windshields but am located in Duluth MN and will not ship one because they are so fragile. I also have the letters for the taillight. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Thanks guys for the recommendation. I have sent an email to bhjh.

Nic, About 1/2 the time when removing the pillar covers the top holder for the clip/insert on the back side of the cover will break. If when you remove the cover, and the holder area breaks, and you find the piece, it can be glued back together. The clip itself never comes out of the pillar without breaking. You can get some of the small plastic push-in fasteners at an auto parts store and then trim if necessary the wide end to fit into the slots on the back of the cover. These will then push into the hole in the pillar. This has been a crazy week, Nic, and I apologize for not getting back to you sooner on the pieces for the portfolios. Send me another email telling me if you have found any of the items you needed and I will check to see if I have any you still need.

I am looking for some thoughts also on this subject. I recently bought a convertible in Florida and it will randomly die or the engine will race, no codes. I haven't done anything about it yet but I also recently sold to my son a green '91 and his will randomly die and bring up a lean oxygen sensor code. We have replaced the MAS and the TPS with no help. ???????????

Copied from the post about the fender. To Mark C. I am also the assistant director of the Reatta division of the BCA and one of my jobs is to plan the "Reatta Rendezvous". The Rendezvous will be on Thursday night July 13th and we will leave Rochester and travel right through Millville on our way to Lake City.

To new member Mark C. I am also the assistant director of the Reatta division of the BCA and one of my jobs is to plan the "Reatta Rendezvous". The Rendezvous will be on Thursday night July 13th and we will leave Rochester and travel right through Millville on our way to Lake City.

I do have fenders for a lot less than $ 400. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The fog light switch at the bottom of the headlight switch module turns on the fog lights and will also light up the parking lights when the ignition is turned on. We usually leave the fog light switch in the operated condition and that way if is almost like new cars with daytime running lights.

You need a special tool to screw the piston back in. There are a couple of styles. The one I have is just a cube that works on most pistons. On mine you use a 3/8 drive ratchet and push while turning. The better ones use a clamp to put pressure on while screwing it in.

I cannot help on the door panel, they are getting harder and harder to find in good condition. You will probably have to take your headliner to an upholstery shop and have it recovered. You cannot reuse the existing material. If you can find a good one in the Chicago are that will solve that problem but they are too big to ship via FedEx ground or UPS so the shipping costs on a headliner board would be more than you could have yours redone for. I have the other 3 parts and will send you an email. I didn't go back and pick up the broken windshield, was disapointed they were so careless in removing it even though they knew I wanted it. Jim