Jim

Kit, I do have a good steering column for your '90 and I can send it out today. I will send you an email and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Please see post number 5 in this thread and after reading the whole post reread the first line. Seriously. Jim

I checked my email program and the spam box with my ISP and I have responded to all received emails. Jim

OK OK that's enough <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I just try to treat people the way I would want to be treated, just like most of the people on this forum. Jim

If the yellow light is on but the red light is off that means the ABS is not working but the brakes will still be working and have power assist. If the red light is on the pressure is low in the accumulator. When the key is turned on the pressure switch sees low pressure and turns on the pump/motor building up 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. The pressure switch sees this high pressure and shuts off the pump. Even with a totally shot accumulator the pump should still run and build up the pressure. In this condition because there is no nitrogen in the accumulator, when you step on the brake pedal once, the red light would probably come back on. If, when the key is on the red light stays on, and you have a hard pedal that means the pump/motor is not starting. You can test how good your accumulator is by doing the brake tests at Reatta.net If you can pump the brake pedal 3 or more times without the red light coming on your accumulator is OK. Less than that, your accumulator is weak and your pump is running more than it should. The car is still safe to drive as long as the red light goes out.

Most likely the IPC itself. It is common for them to go black. If you determine that is what you need I do have several Reatta parts cars and have this part and others available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I will be away from home from Jan 31 until Feb 7.

I'm more interested in the "rocket88coupe". I've got a '49 coupe but would like to have a '50. I like the chrome on the sides better.

I'm more interested in the "rocket88coupe". I've got a '49 coupe but would like to have a '50. I like the chrome on the sides better.

I guess you better be prepared to pay-------- There is a set of burgundy ones on Ebay right now at $ 134 with two days to go.

Does anybody know of a good discussion site for Toronado Trofeo owners? I have a color CRT from a Trofeo on Ebay and I am not getting any bids. These are pretty rare I am told. At this point I have had 47 views. Now if I only had a dollar per view I would be happy. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Nic, I am sure you know how to clear codes but here is the proceedure on '90-91s. Any history code should be clearable except SIR codes. If the code stays current of course it cannot be cleared. Turn on the key and on your ECC ( climate control module ) push the "off" and temperature up ( up arrow ) at the same time and hold them until the car goes into the diagnostic mode. You will see all of the lights on the IPC light up and the trouble codes will then be read out where the mileage usually is. Write down the codes as they go by. They go by pretty fast so write them down quickly and watch for the next. First you will get the engine codes eg. Exxx, then you will get the body codes eg. Bxxx then some IPC codes eg. Rxxx and maybe an SIR code. If any code has an "h" after it that means it is a code in history and not current. No "h" means it is a current code. After all the codes have displayed you will get a Ec? this means do you want to diagnose the engine computer. Pressing the Fan down arrow you will be telling the computer no, the fan up arrow means yes. If you did get any Ec codes and you want to clear them, when you get the Ec? push yes and then it will ask you questions, keep pushing no until it asks if you want to clear the E codes then push yes. If you have no E codes and want to go to the B codes when it asks you Ec? push the fan down button for no and it will then ask you Bc, and you can push yes. It will then ask you questions and you continue pushing no until it ask CLR b code and you push the up fan for yes. You cannot hurt anything or screw up anything by doing this and if you make a mistake simply turn off the key and start over.

Cal Dewhirst lives on Victoria Island BC. He has won the longest distance award at least 4 times driving his Reatta to the BCA national meets. He has driven the car to Batavia NY, Plano TX, Flint MI and Rochester MN.

You will need some special tools to take it apart particularity the tool to remove and replace the snap ring. You definitely need a special tool to put it back together. There are lots of small parts involved and also pulling the wires up through very small spaces. There are some small wires, like the one for the VATS key that can break off during disassembly. I have complete good steering columns available at reasonable prices. It is MUCH easier to replace the whole column than take one apart and put it back together. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

After you do get it open I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good replacement latch for your car. I will also send instructions on how to remove and replace your lock cylinder from your old latch to the new one. Let me know the color of your interior and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I don't think it was the Reatta at all. I think the valet recognized you as nice guy and gave you the treatment you deserve. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Jim

There were three styles of touch screens and two styles of CRTs in the years '86-89. The older Rivs used a VI34 CRT and the newer including Reattas used a VI-5V. The cases and internals were different. The older Rivs used a touch screen with 6 soft keys instead of the 6 hard keys. On the touch screens with the hard keys the older style had some different buttons at the bottom and the newer ones like in Reattas had at the bottom hard gauges, options and status keys. I have a non working unit and will send you an email. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I do have one and sent Michael an email.

I have like new factory service manuals available for 1989 and one for 1990. If you buy one on Ebay or anywhere else make sure you get the "final edition" and not the "new product manual" The new product manuals are shop manuals but are sort of carryovers from the previous year and will not have all the information in them that a final edition would have. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The yellow light on is a whole different situation. You will need to get a shop manual and read out the ABS trouble codes through the ALDL connector per instructions in the manual.

If the yellow light is on but the red light is off that means the ABS is not working but the brakes will still be working and have power assist. If the red light is on the pressure is low in the accumulator. When the key is turned on the pressure switch sees low pressure and turns on the pump/motor building up 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. The pressure switch sees this high pressure and shuts off the pump. Even with a totally shot accumulator the pump should still run and build up the pressure. In this condition because there is no nitrogen in the accumulator, when you step on the brake pedal once, the red light would probably come back on. If, when the key is on the red light stays on, and you have a hard pedal that means the pump/motor is not starting. The relay could be bad but most likely it is a bad pressure switch or pump/motor. I f you remove the connector on the pressure switch, which is located above the pump/motor and in front of the accumulator ( black ball ) and look inside and see any brake fluid seeping next to the terminals, you have a bad pressure switch. As the cars get older I am seeing more and more pump motors go bad. Sometimes tapping on the motor with the key on will start the motor. If this happens, you need to replace the motor/pump. I have good used parts for the ABS and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

In the page it states all Reattas came with the large owners folder. Only the '90-91s came with that folder. The '88-89s came with a small folder with only the owners manual and a pen.

The IPC is the most common part to go bad in the '90-91s and when they do the screen will go black and read 00 or error. I doubt the previous owner caused the problem. I will send you an email. I think my nephew who lives in Baldwin and now races late models used to race at a dirt track in Centuria when he was running either supers or mods. Jim

Sandy, I do have good drivers side windows available and will send you an email. I would however like to point out to others reading this post, I am not the one who charged $ 700 for the vent window, I sold Sandy an IPC. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Part number 1228253 is for a ECM Part number 1228786 is for a BCM The ECM is mounted vertically below the glove box and the BCM is mounted horizontally behind the glove box. I am not sure what you paid but if you would have bought from me I would have sold you the correct part <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I am not sure if it is working or not but I personally do not like the PM system and do not like to use it. When answering someone who PMs me there is no way for me to look back later to see my response. Not only that but if someone is in a hurry and for some reason I do not check this site, I then miss their messages maybe for several days. I alway put in my post to mail me directly, I then have a record of what has been said.