Jim

I agree fully with Manik, use the correct urethane sealant when replacing the glass. Funny story----- A friend picked up a parts car for me last fall and was towing it on a dolly back to his home. The car did not have a windshield in it. He just happened to look in the rear view mirror at the exact time the back window blew out of the Reatta. There was a Semi following quite close behind him. The backglass hit the front of the Semi and shattered upon impact. My friend kept going and so did the Semi. When I got to his home we discovered some time earlier the car had been rolled, repaired and the backglass had been put in with the old style ribbon sealer. Didn't hold up. The biggest reason for using the correct sealant is it bonds the backglass and windshield to the body and helps in rollover protection.

From my experience and from my GM factory parts and illustration catalog both the ECM and BCM are different in the '91s from the '88-90s. ECM------ The book shows 1228253 for all years '88-90 but also many '89s came with a 16198264. These two ECMs will interchange but as mentioned you should use your original PROM. The ECM for a '91 is 16141470 and the colors on the connectors are also different. BCM------ The book shows 1227253 for 1988 and 1228786 for '89-90 but in dismantling many '90s I have found quite a few to have the 1227253s in them from the factory. Again both numbers should work but in this case you definitely have to put in your original PROM. The p/n for a '91 BCM is 16137944 and like the ECM it has different color connectors.

The car I am driving right now had that exact same problem and the picture could have been from my car. I bought a very well taken care of Reatta from a lady in Michigan who was backing out of her friend's driveway when the rear of the cradle dropped down. They used a floor jack to get the car to the side of the street. I backed my car dolly up to the car and with out the benefit of steering still was able to drive the car onto my dolly. I brought it home, replaced all the cushions and have been driving it for about 2 years now. The bottom line is beware of buying northern cars driven in salt conditions.

Do a comparison from left to right and make sure all the bulbs both front and back are working. If they are and if the car is an '88 or 89 it could be the hazard turn cornering module under the dash. I do have a good one available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

You only have one brake question and one cruise control question. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Yes, the black tank is a vacuum reservoir to maintain an even supply of vacuum for the cruise servo. It sounds like his pressure switch is bad which is pretty common. Have him remove the connector and look inside for any seepage of fluid next to the pins. If there is any, the switch is bad. I do have some good ones.

Sometimes they can be pretty difficult to replace. Not in the areas you are referring to but in trying to get the sensor out of the knuckle. They are made to slip into a hole in the knuckle and then held in place with one Torx bolt. The bolt comes out easy but the sensor sometimes is very tight in the hole. In order to not damage them I have had to take the bearing assembly out of the knuckle. I then put about a 1/2 inch socket on my 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and then positioning the socket on the inner end of the sensor and hit the bar just outside of the knuckle and this pushes the sensor out of the hole. Sometimes they are so tight I still damage the sensor end to the point where they are no good. I pick a socket that is just slightly smaller than the diameter of the sensor. The easy part is disconnecting the connector under the hood and pulling it back through the hole in the sheet metal. If the sensor is working I would recommend simply repairing the frayed area with some tape or some sort of protecti

The panels are the same although the trim is different. The hole for the switches is smaller on the earlier panels and even though I have never tried it I think it could be made larger to accept the larger switch panel of the later cars. You would also have to put the upper wide trim from your later panel onto the earlier one.

I have several other cars besides Reattas ( notice the Kaiser Frazer Service Sign in the background of the first picture ) but all my cars are stock except the '50 Chev I own with the big block and blower which is actually my son's. I have wanted a street rod for a long time but don't have the time to build one. I wanted a late 30s coupe but not the typical Ford or Chev that you see so many of. At the Batavia BCA meet two years ago this car was for sale and it was perfect for me. I wanted a stock looking body and this one has a modern interior, a '66 Buick V8 engine and a 400 trans. Jack, I have a '37 Olds coupe in a #5 condition that I am going to be selling if you want a project.

Actually thanks to Tommy H and his directions on how insert pictures. I waited for my son to come home and using his PDA and my wireless connection, he went to his web server and set me up to host pictures. So this is a test.

I did some body work to my '89

Lots of wimps. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I drive my high and low mileage Reattas anywhere in the country. I will be there definitely with a Reatta and probably with my Select 60. I am glad to hear Stanley will be there. I have been to several National meets and only once had my car judged, all the other times is was for display only. It is nice to see the 400 point cars, the drivers and the ones with modifications. For me, at the last Flint meet, a couple of highlights were the yellow bumble bee and Gregs SC 5 speed. We will be having our "Reatta Rendezvous" on Friday for lunch.

The car looks good but what I want to know is how to put a picture in the body of the post. I tried the other day to put my snow buried Reattas picture in by the copy and paste method but it wouldn't work. I had to resort to an attachment. Jim

Times up. Tommy was close so he wins the rusted brake line I took off my x#%X&z* Bronco plow truck trying to move some of the snow. Starting with the closest one left to right facing forward is a silver '89 and next to it a green '91. Behind those two is a red '89 and a black '89. The one behind the building is the Maui blue '90 which with no help from me but from sunlight is now showing the roof. In front of it under the brown tarp is a white '91 with a complete red, not burgundy, interior that I would like to sell as a package. Coming forward from the brown tarp is a blue '89, a green '91 and lastly a red '88

The 9th is the Maui blue coupe on the side of the pole building in front of the '91 white coupe with the brown tarp over it. If anyone can tell me the years and colors of all the cars I will give them a set of sill plate inserts. George Madsen is excluded from this offer because he has a real good memory but if Viking63 wants to give it a try we can test his memory. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Hint---- there are two green '91s in the picture.

I took a picture of some of my parts cars. There are 9 of them in this picture.

From my experience the most common part to go bad on the '90 -91 Reattas is the IPC. The second most common part to go bad is the ECC electronic climate control above the radio. I know others have successfully cleaned the contacts but I took one apart once and couldn't see how to get at the contacts. They were covered by some small rubber covers and not accessible. I do have a good working ECC and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The two little springs that go in parallel to the key and next to the key opening are there to keep the plate with the little door in it tight against the round cover that holds trim/weather cover in place.

The IPC is the most common part to go bad in the '90-91 Reattas and when it does it will read 00 and error. I do have a good one available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I am NOT saying this is the same car but not too long ago there was a dealer in Chicago selling a red '91 and when looked at it by a couple of people they found it was a little rusty underneath. Maybe best to have someone locally check it out. 63viking might have been one of the people looking at it.

Barney was away last week at the BCA meeting in Nashville. He can be reached at barney@texas.net He also has the up stop nuts.

Just yesterday I took a picture of an ashtray and an unused cigarette lighter to list on Ebay. The '90 and '91 ashtrays are the same. I will sell both items or just the ashtray directly to anyone who wants it. John, I will send you an email and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Tommy H, Thankyou. I just tried that and it worked. Jim

Robert, I am sure most of the sellers are reputable but I am also sure many are using shill bidders to up their prices and private auctions are a perfect oportunity for these people. Were't you also the person who got shafted by an Ebay seller in Chicago on a minivan? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Jim

Kit, I want to go out and have a look at my columns and I will give you a call this morning at the number you provided in your PM. Jim P.S. I do not like to use the PM system here because I then have no record of what was said.

Can someone explain to me why anyone would have a "private Auction", where the buyers names are not listed. I am not accusing any particular person an shady dealing but to me the only reason a seller would have a private auction is so he can use a friend and run up the prices. Personally I never bid on private auctions because I simply do not trust the sellers no mater how many feedbacks they have. About a year ago a dealer was selling an '89 Rivera on Ebay with a private auction format and I wanted to buy the car but in watching the bids they kept going up in small increments until they reached about $ 1000. The car had about 25 bids and it was only worth about $ 500 in my opinion. The body wasn't that good, had lots of miles and a terrible interior. One seller once told me if I was the high bidder he would disclose to me all the other bidders but this information was useless unless I got to see and compare his other auctions to see if the same people were bidding on his other items. I am bringing this up now because I see there is a '91 Reatta in Chicago at auction and it is a private auction.