Jim

On the '90-91s it is most likely the ECC, the Electronic Climate Control. (The unit you are trying to operate.) Some people have had success taking it apart and cleaning behind the buttons. If that fails I do have good working ECCs available. The other item that controls the system is the heater programmer located under the glove box but this unit has nothing to do with the fan speeds, only controls the temperature and directs the output of the system. jfinn@cpintenet.com

You need a new blower control module. It is located on the engine side of the firewall in the heater plennum and has two connectors on it. While you are waiting to replace it you can unplug the connector on the blower motor. The blower motor and it's connector are also right behind the engine on the firewall. I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good blower module available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I know I have some very nice coolers and may have some good lines but will have to check. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The module for the keyless entry is located behind the panel on the drivers side in the rear area but you do not have to get to the module to program the remotes. There will be a green single wire connector near the ABS computer on the drivers side in the trunk behind the trim panel. You ground the connector in the following manor---------. Before starting this procedure, BOTH transmitters must be present. Failure to use both transmitters will render the missing transmitter inoperative. If the customer uses only one transmitter on the vehicle, use this transmitter as transmitter 1 and 2. The entire reprogramming sequence must be completed within 30 seconds of grounding the connector. If the procedure is not completed, remove the ground at the connector and restart the procedure from step 1 1. Ignition "ON" 2. Ground green single wire connector ( located near the ABS module in the trunk. 3. Wait for the door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 4. Press the "unlock" button on the first transmitter twice ( pauses for one second between presses) 5. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 6. Press the "unlock" button on the second transmitter twice ( pause for one second between presses) 7. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 8. Remove ground from green conector.

I have a good used one from one of my several Reatta parts cars for a lot less than getting one rebuilt. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The valve block is the unit mounted on the side of the whole ABS unit mounted on the firewall. The valve block is held to the master cylinder with 4 bolts. You will need to remove the three lines coming out of the bottom of the block. There are "O" rings sealing the passages between the block and the master cylinder.

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I have a green '91 with 149,000 miles on it that I will be selling in the near future. The car was owned by an older lady since almost new and appears to have never been in an accident. $ 3500 jfinn@cpinternet.com

I didn't get to work on big machinery, but connected little bitty wires at the phone company when I was working. Now I am retired and just turned 60 but I can still spin the tires going into 4th gear in my '63 Corvette 4 speed or spin the wheels anytime I want in my ( pictured ) 50 Chev.

I am not sure what you mean by "back driving lights' but I am assuming you mean the taillights. ????? If you headlight switch assembly fell apart that is most likely the culprit as it does control both the tail lights on the upper switches and the fog lights on the switch at the bottom of the assembly. The only other thing that could be wrong is a blown fuse. I have several Reatta parts cars and have good headlight switch module available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Quite often people take a settlement from the insurance company and keep their car, fixing it themselves later. It is not difficult to replace the front fender and headlight yourself. The tool you will need are a # 30 torx bit to remove the bolts along the top of the fender and the hood hinges and the one bolt about 1/2 way up the fender near the door. You will need a # 10 socket and maybe an open/box end wrench for the headlight assembly and for one bolt at the front of the fender and two bolts at the bottom rear of the fender. You will need a small socket set to remove the bolt/screws that hold the inner fender to the body. The only problem you might encounter is the torx bolt on the top are very tight sometimes and I have broken the torx bits trying to get them out. I bought a very good bit and that has helped but sometimes I also use a chisel and a hammer on the edges to get them started turning. I have several Reatta parts cars and have the parts you are looking for at reasonable prices. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Ron and April Gill are also planning a large Reatta get together in September of next year near Lansing MI.

You would want to use any GM '89 or '90. '88s were the same engine but had 3800 embossed in the air plenum and the '89-90s did not so it would be obvious that you had an '88 engine in your '90. The '91s had a completely different intake system. I have bought a couple of Reattas for parts that had a knock in the engine and it turned out to be a bad harmonic balancer. ( crankshaft pulley )

'88-90 Reattas had grey valve caps and '91s had black. '90 Select 60s ???????? Nic, when we talk, ask me about grey valve caps. Jim

As Howard said, it is a common problem for the teeth to strip off either the motor gear or the regulator gear. I have good used motor/regulator assemblies available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The pin out would be lengthy and most likely not needed. The BCM is located behind the glove box mounted horizontally and the ECM is below the glove box and is mounted vertically next to the heater/programmer. Code E041 is a cam sensor code. The cam sensor is mounted in the front of the engine in the timing cover. The sensor detects a magnet going around on the upper timing gear. It is very common for the magnet to deteriorate and fall off and also the plastic holder that holds the magnet can deteriorate and the magnet will fall off. The correct way is to remove the timing cover and install a new magnet and it's holder but I and others have successfully used JB weld and glued a new magnet to the old holder by removing sensor and working through the hole to make the repair. Probably the only weak point on the 3800s is the cam sensor and the timing chain so if you do remove the timing cover to replace the magnet also check the condition of the timing chain.

Before starting this procedure, BOTH transmitters must be present. Failure to use both transmitters will render the missing transmitter inoperative. If the customer uses only one transmitter on the vehicle, use this transmitter as transmitter 1 and 2. The entire reprogramming sequence must be completed within 30 seconds of grounding the connector. If the procedure is not completed, remove the ground at the connector and restart the procedure from step 1 1. Ignition "ON" 2. Ground green single wire connector ( located near the ABS module in the trunk. 3. Wait for the door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 4. Press the "unlock" button on the first transmitter twice ( pauses for one second between presses) 5. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 6. Press the "unlock" button on the second transmitter twice ( pause for one second between presses) 7. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 8. Remove ground from green conector.

I offered you one for $ 20 plus shipping which would have been about $ 15 for a total of $ 35. I guess I will have to raise my prices if I want to make a sale.

Robert, I also was wondering how to put the picture in the body of the letter and tried following your instructions on a post I made yesterday about the seat tracks. When I clicked on the "attachment" the picture came up but that is all. There was no address with it. How do I find the address like you showed for Barney's picture? Thanks, Jim

If you need some Reatta tracks like the ones I have pictured, I have plenty of them.

I am not sure what you are asking but if you click on the attachment I have a picture of the seat tracks. There is nothing that goes between the two seats, under the console.

I wasn't going to post the 1/2 price sale because it didn't include the Reattas but I thought if only one person benefits from the post it would be worth it. Dick, I am glad you were able to save some money. As to them being $ 104 four months ago------------- I went to McDonalds yesteday and they raised their prices the day before. What had been $ 4.72 for a salad and a senior Coke was now $ 5 even.

I am not complaining about Esnipe, I am very happy with them. I guess I didn't explain enough. I told them to bid $ 87 and they did with 7 seconds to spare. The problem was someone else put in a bid of $ 88 or more, 10 seconds before the end of the auction basically making my bid of $ 87 no good. The guy getting it paid $ 88.

I am not sure if the CRTC would be causing this problem but everything going to the CRT does go through the CRTC. The parts book shows 4 different service numbers for the 4 years 86 to 89. I am sure the '89 CRTC will work in an '88 and I would guess it would also work in an '87 or '86 as all the CRTs will work in any Reatta. I do have for sure an '89 CRTC and maybe have an '88 CRTC. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I recently bought a 2000 GMC pickup and wanted a service manual. There was one on Ebay last night and it was sitting at $ 25 up to near the end. I really wanted to get it so I bid $ 87 with Esnipe and didn't get it. I was bummed out. This morning I went to helminc.com and see they have a special on 1999 to 2001 GM service manuals for 1/2 price. I bought one for $ 67.50 This sale is only for '99-2001 and won't apply to Reattas but I though I would mention it if anyone is looking for a manual in this year range.