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Machiner 55

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About Machiner 55

  • Birthday 11/12/1955

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  1. Not to "one up" you or anything but, try doing it after Open Heart Surgery. (Mitral valve repair and a coronary by-pass.) John F.
  2. Hello, A belated Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year! Ronnie, thanks for posting this photo. It's one of my favorites as well. John F.
  3. Years ago I worked at a can plant that made cans with a soldered side seam as opposed to the current method of welding the seam. In this method, the cans would run over a solder pot in which the solder was kept molten by a natural gas burner. An employee was walking past the solder pot with an open container of MEK that he was using to clean parts with. The fumes from the MEK ignited and flashed over to the container Walt was holding and caught fire. Dropping the container caused a fireball which burned Walt badly. I don't recall the % of burn coverage but he carries the scars on his chest, neck and arms to this very day. I'm not saying do not use MEK. I'm just saying be very aware of it's extremely low flash point (16*F). Make sure there is plenty of ventilation available. Now, with the weather turning cooler, one may be tempted to do this inside. Just make sure there are no ignition sources available. Certainly no smoking in the area. Be aware of pilot lights (water heater or washer and gas dryer in the garage?) and any relays on things such as space heaters, air compressors etc. that may kick on creating a spark at the relay which may ignite the vapor. MEK is good stuff and can be used safely, just consider all possible sources if ignition prior to use and all should be well. Also... avoid inhalation of the vapors. Not good for your brain and other internal organs. Use of protective gloves kinda goes without saying. Neoprene is best suited. MEK will melt most other types of gloves. An Internet search of MEK will provide you with more info about proper handling and safety concerns of this solvent. Be Safe! John F.
  4. I have a similar tool but the handle is white in color. Do you feel that this difference would have a detrimental or beneficial effect on the process? John F.
  5. Dave, Haven't heard from "Mc R" in over a year now. Not even sure he's still "with us". One who is, is Padgett. He's in the Orlando area. Though not particularly near the coast, it's predicted that they will experience 100+ mph winds, heavy rains, power outages etc. Be safe my friend! John F.
  6. You failed to thank me for the use of my hand. John F.
  7. Yes. It's exactly what I was referring to. I just went to the site to check on it and found, as you did, that it had expired on July 31, 2012. I came here to post that it had expired but you'd beat me to it. But... if he purchase the struts prior to July 31st, he would still be eligible for the rebate because the; "Offer submission must be postmarked by August 31, 2016. " So he has four more days to get it in the mail. John F.
  8. David, The Monroe struts have a rebate available. I think it's about 10 bux per. The rebate form can be had at the RockAuto site. I think it's in the upper right hand that there's a link for "Promotions and Rebates". Click it, and scroll down til you find it. Print it, fill it out and mail it out along with the bar codes peeled from the strut boxes. Free money! Nothing wrong with that. John F.
  9. I don't know how my post came in after Digger's but, there it is. I too have had the inner joint separate. You can open the boot by cutting the large, inner band off. I've used a cut off wheel on an air powered die grinder to cut it. If you have a Dremel tool you can do the same. Just be careful. Don't cut the rubber. Just the SS band. The FLAPS usually have replacement bands just for this situation. They are called the "Speedy-Boot Universal Clamp Kit, PN 03644. They come in a set of two. The large band and the smaller band. Buy two sets because you may muck up the first band figuring out how it works. This will save you a trip in the middle of the project. If you don't need it, take it back or keep it for the next time. The Tri-Pot bearings go back in rather easily as long as they are aligned with the slots in the hub (bearing shell). If you have a FSM, check the diagrams for orientation. Nothing should need any force or coaxing. It should go together as easily as they separated. If you don't have a FSM. Ask someone to post a pic from it. Depending on how clean everything was before you removed the boot will determine whether or not you need to clean (wash with solvent) the bearing assembly and the hub. If you cleaned all debris and contaminants from the outside of the boot and surrounding area, all you should have to do is wipe off/out all the old grease and replace it with the new grease that you bought when you went to the FLAPS to get the bands. If you suspect that you got dirt or debris in or on the assembly then you need to clean it thoroughly. Otherwise the bearings will "find" the grit and start the self destruction process. It will eventually fail. And it will fail while attempting to cross Death Valley or some other Outback off the beaten path. Once you get everything back together and the band clamp back on, do yourself a favor and get some baling wire or even a coat hanger and wrap one end securely around the half-shaft and find a suitable anchor point on the transmission or something nearby to attach the other end of the wire. (You may even be able to wrap the other end on the back side of the hub between the hub and the Tx. housing. If you can that may be the better choice.) This will keep you from having to repeat the Tri-Pot bearing exercise again. You may need to allow some slack in the wire to allow for maneuvering the knuckle but not enough to allow the bearing to part ways with the hub again. Just my 2 cents on the matter. John F.
  10. Chris, Not to side track here but, reminds me of the time after buying our house, I kept finding bullsh*t repairs and I kept referring to the PO as an idiot. Then one day it dawned on me... I bought the house... who's really the idiot here??? John F.
  11. Barney, Good to hear that Nancy is well enough to travel. Always a good sign. Speaking of Wisconsin, Where abouts in Wisconsin? John F.
  12. Dash, The listing shows it as a "NEW Fuel Gas Tank Dorman 576-360" but the part number stamped on the tank is: 03 16 IGM36#. That's the best I can do. John F.
  13. Dash, Thanks anyway. When my tank arrived last week it too had a damaged area with a hole in the box. I was home at the time of delivery and the FedEx guy rang the doorbell and waited (instead of scampering off as they often do) for me to answer the door. He pointed out the defect in the box. and I said we'd open it right there in his presence. The box was made of cheap cardboard which was easily ripped open by hand (no cutting tool needed). We inspected the whole tank and could only find a small scuff on one of the strengthening ribs. I told him I was OK with that and the fact there were no dents or dings on the rest of the tank and sent him on his merry way. The week before, my Mailman came to the door with a pretty well banged up and damaged box. I knew what was inside (Moog control arm bushings) and felt that there wouldn't be an issue with them (there wasn't) But I have to say, as with the tank the packaging left a lot to be desired. They could have at least jammed some newspaper around the boxed bushings to keep them from banging around. My worst experience was receiving an AC compressor packaged inside the same box as a condenser unit sent to me by Amazon. How the condenser arrived without any damage from the loose compressor in the box amazed the hell out of me! The exterior of the box was dented and ripped open in spots but the items inside survived intact.Whew! Amazon needs to do better at there fulfilment centers that's for sure. I've got pictures of that, that I will attach to this post later. John F.
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