NASCARLady

DKirk and DAVES89 -- Thank you both for additional information. I've done some additional searching. When I expanded my picture of the second dangling switch, I could see the shape of the switch more clearly. I was then able to look in a shop manual for an 89 Reatta (a year earlier than my daughters car) and found a picture of a door ajar switch (see attached). This looks like the dangling switch except mine appears to have the plastic piece with mounting screw tab broken off. PS: My daughter just visited so I was able to see if lifting the outside handle would wake up the dash -- It did. So it looks like the dangling switch is the door ajar switch. So I've ordered a replacement --

KDirk -- Thanks for the explanation. Since the switch with the clip is intact, I should be able to clip it back on the cylinder. Now I have to determine where the second switch (in my last picture) goes. It would appear to be part of the latch mechanism. However, it looks like the plastic mounting is broken off. So maybe it was an integral part of the latch.

Ronnie -- Thank you for the picture. It looks like the switch in my second picture includes the clip and should be reinserted to hold the cylinder. I'm not sure how to position the switch but maybe the rubber plunger on the switch is actuated when the key is turned clockwise to lock the door.

Frogware -- Thank you for the picture -- that helps quite a bit. It's still not clear what holds the cylinder in its proper place --

The drivers door key cylinder is hanging on my daughter's 1990 coupe Reatta due to her overzealous friend that used a slim jim to unlock. If you hold the cylinder in place the key will unlock both doors and will lock the drivers door. I took the door apart to find two switches that are hanging by their cables. One cable has a U-shaped bracket that looks like it would fit around the cylinder. The other switch looks like its mounting bracket is broken and looks like it should be attached to the latching mechanism. I also found a melted amber plastic piece that may have been holding the cylinder in place. Please attached photos. Looking for any suggestions on where the hanging switches should be and what should be holding the cylinder in place. Thanks for you help --

Thanks much for all the help. The rest of the story ...... Took the car to the A/C shop and owner Grant [B&M Radiator in Fremont, CA] pulled about 1.4 lbs of R12 out. That's my bad because the new low pressure switch that I put in had the plastic thread. I was afraid that I would over tighten but I didn't discover that until the car had lost about 1 lb of R12. Grant took out the new low pressure switch and put in a new O-ring and re-installed. Grant evacuated the system and recharged. He disconnected the battery to reset codes. When I turned on the car the compressor did not come on -- Oh No! Grants A/C test machine said all the pressure readings were fine now. Since I brought the old low pressure switch with me I suggested we put it back in. Grant put it, I restarted the car and the A/C came on working like a champ! Lessons learned -- 1. If the A/C fuse blows, suspect that the A/C clutch suppression diode could short out at higher temperature. Replace the diode. 2. Since the replacement low pressure switch was a brand new switch intended for our model car and purchased from a well-recognized independent parts dealer maybe was set for the wrong hi/lo pressure readings. Maybe the use of plastic instead of metal helped cause the problem. In any case, double check that the replacement pressure switch is really the right one. Thanks again Chuck

OK, I'll take the car to the A/C shop and refill the freon. Chuck

Thanks for the good suggestions. I ran two tests, each test starting with resetting codes by disconnecting the battery. Test 1 -- Low pressure switch in place Results -- Now seeing B448 code; compressor not running; B027 reads 20, B028 reads 20 Test 2 -- Low pressure switch disconnected and jumper across connector Results -- No B448 code; compressor is cycling with approx 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off. B027 cycling from 23 to 31 and then back down to 23. B028 cycling from plus 9 to minus 2 and then back up to plus 9 Do these measurements show that I may have lost to much freon while changing the low pressure switch or is there still something else wrong? I don't have gauges to measure actual system pressure, so I'll need to go back to the A/C shop to get an R12 refill. Chuck

Updated information -- Found that the fuse blowing resulted from the suppression diode was breaking down with higher heat. Replaced the diode and that problem was solved. Then noticed that compressor was not cycling and system was getting very cold. So I replaced the low pressure switch. But now the low pressure switch does not turn on so the compressor does not come on at all and the diagnostic throws the B448 code. So I removed the connector from the low pressure switch and jumpered the connector. This causes the compressor to come and stay on and their is no B448 code. Any suggestions of what I should check next? Could it be the low side temp sensor or high side temp sensor? Note: I also confirmed that the A/C relay output from the ECM going to pin 5 on the clutch relay does pull down to 0 volts. Thanks Chuck

Thanks much for your help. I checked BD27 engine cold, reads 27. Then with engine running and AC off, reads 31. Then with AC on, reads 54. Then keep engine running and turned off AC, went to 33 but started inching up to 44 over about 3 minutes. Then turned on AC again, went back to 54 but soon after fuse blew. I'm wondering if the high side temp sensor is not working? Chuck

Are there any suggestions on how I can monitor the BD27 in the 1990? Chuck

Thanks for the quick replies. Within the family we have two Reatta's 1989 and 1990. The 1990 is having the A/C problem. I will check on the items that you have mentioned. One question -- The 1990 doesn't have the CRT (like the 1989) so how can we monitor the BD27? Also, the schematic shows a diode across the clutch coil to reduce the inductive kickback. Has anyone had a problem with that diode failing [shorting] at high temperature and causing the clutch fuse to blow? Notes say the diode is inside the connector on top of the clutch coil. Is it possible replace the diode without having to remove the clutch or clutch/compressor? Chuck

Yesterday I had an experienced A/C repair shop in San Jose, CA evacuate and recharge the R12 (it was only down 0.4 lbs from full at 2.375 lbs). The A/C worked fine for about an hour of driving [Note air temp is record heat wave at 96], then the 20 amp fuse #19 blew and compressor clutch stopped operating and Service A/C light came on. Any ideas of what could be causing this problem? Chuck [husband of NASCARLady

C.F. Massie -- Thanks much for your great post on removing the door panel. Note: the strap bolts are 10 mm. C. Roedel

Howard, Thanks for the quick response. I have to be out of town for a week so I will try upon return -- Leslie