AMarx

The good: A wonderful car, I've driven it for the past 3 years. On long trips I've gotten just over 33 mpg (highway). It has 141,000 miles on it. I bought another Reatta (red) and have no room for the blue. It needs some cosmetic work, but I've gone a long way to restoring it ... so it has many new parts, including brakes, calipers, struts, battery, mass air flow, all seals replaced, electrical, trunk lock mechanism (the electrical part) and more. All new fluids. I also have extra keys and two functioning remotes. The transmission was replaced 2 years ago and has about 15,000 miles on it now. It has original paint that is in great condition, but there is a slight rusting around the sunroof (but not on the sunroof itself). The bad: The speedometer is switched out to my new car, which had a faulty one. It needs servicing. There is actually a person in Columbia, Maryland, that does this for a little over $100. Also, the driver's side front bumper shock needs replacing (but I actually have the parts for this - just not the time to do it). Also, the passenger side mirror should be serviced. It works and would pass inspection, but I just haven't gotten around to making it show standard. I am in Annapolis, MD. I would like to sell for $2000, to offset the price of the red Reatta. AntonMarx@msn.com

I'm working on restoring the 1990 that I just bought. The back panel (under the center light) is starting to crack. Does anyone know a way to protect it or do a minor repair job? The cracks are very tiny right now, but I want to head off any big cracks. Also, someone really chewed up the burgundy interior doors, which match the exterior. Does anyone have some that are in good shape? Ebay had some not too long ago, but the time to bid passed before I bought my current car. I could switch out the ones from the Maui Blue that I'm getting rid of, but I want to keep the color the same.

Mischief managed ... It turns out that there were 6 tabs in the lock. Removing an assembly from one of the cargo locks, the locksmith was able to get 4 tabs. The last two, he figured out using progression. In the end, we had a key that worked for all the doors, trunk and compartments. The only difficulty is that the driver's side door lock doesn't trigger open all the doors or turning off of the alarm. I suppose that the driver's side door switch could be on it's way to the graveyard. I'll have to figure that out.

Ended up getting too busy, so I just paid the guys at Pep Boys to switch out the flasher for me. While there, two people mentioned they wanted to purchase my Maui Blue. Not in prime shape, but it seems people know quality when they see it. I figure that I'll let it go for $2000, to a good family, by the end of the year ... or donate it to a good cause, though I'll really miss having the sunroof.

Turns out that something must have been wrong with the solenoid. ... if that's the correct term for the mechanical trigger that opens the trunk lock. I replaced it and the trunk opens like new. Now, I just have to deal with my remote ... it just died on me! (Just the battery, I hope.)

Managing the alarm: Disconnecting the battery will reset your alarm system. Or. For cars with original lock structures: Lock all doors, then use your key to open the driver's side door. Turning the key a touch further will unlock all doors and deactivate the alarm system. Other than that, there is a wire that connects the alarm system to the horn. Cutting this will deactivate only the horn. I don't recommend playing around with the wires though. Better to just find out why it isn't working and fix it ... while using one of the other methods until you can get someone to work on it.

Oh, I meant to say ... I did try new bulbs ... no change. I did clean contacts ... no change. I did tell them where the flasher location should be (from memory) ... and was told that it didn't matter, they would find it exactly (as a part of their work). But, the mechanic said he couldn't give me a price until after he did a diagnosis of the problem, which he said would range between $100 - $300 depending on how long it took to find the problem. Work amounts to about $65 per hour and he said two people would probably be involved. Due to the lack of his providing specifics, I decided to look elsewhere for solutions.

Well, that seems to be a problem in Annapolis. I'm not totally sure about any of the mechanics. So far, my experience is that if you hand over your wallet, they give you service. I'm not really sure that they do all that great a job. I do a better job myself, but I don't have the time to do the work these days. In addition, I live in a condo and I don't have room to store all the necessary tools (a lift would be a dream to me) - aside from the fact that my condo penalizes anyone who works on their cars (due to complaints of oil spots and such, I'm told). Also, parking in Annapolis is at a premium. I do have a reliable person, but he isn't near Annapolis. It's just murder on my schedule to try to arrange to get my car to him. Does anyone know a really reliable mechanic in the Annapolis area?

Thanks, I'll check out the relays. Odd thing, the Maroon Reatta has rectangular relays rather than square ones, like my Maui Blue. And, I remember there was one empty relay slot - perhaps this is the cause. Is there a map somewhere of which relays do what, for the relays located in the trunk? (like for the ones under the hood and in the fuse boxes) I do know the trunk doesn't actually move for the Reatta. I have pretty sensitive hearing and (when it is quiet around a car) I can actually hear switches activate when a person uses a remote. For the Reatta, I hear a static click somewhere behind the driver's side seat. What I expect (and don't hear) is the solenoid activate the locking mechanism for the trunk. Regarding the nickel-size object, I found nothing on the floor of the trunk; but, I look a little more closely this weekend. Thanks much everyone!

Last question for the evening. I've been to state inspection twice, regarding my front left corner turn light - they say it is faulty. From having the same thing happen to my other Reatta, I think I just need the flasher replaced. At least, that is what the mechanic called it. The thing is, when he fixed the first car, he told me the flasher was located in an odd area. When he learned that I was going to another mechanic, he refused to tell me the exact location ... could someone give me some help on this?

I've searched and searched ... maybe it is just buried under too much data. Using my key and/or remote will not trigger the trunk to open ... I have to crawl in through the back hatch to pull the manual lever. Using the remote, I hear the sensor switching ... but see no action. Could there be some switch that needs replacing somewhere?

I just purchased my second Reatta, which was supposed to have little/no work done on it before. I received only one key (ignition). When I had more keys made ... and the door key ... I found out that all the other locks had been changed! It took a while, but I now have a key. The problem is that the person before me broke the majority of the mechanisms - the little plastic levers used to open everything. I was going to transfer the mechanisms from my old car (Maui Blue) to the new one, but the locks didn't come out completely at the locksmith's. Is there a trick to removing the cylinders? Otherwise, I'll transfer cylinders and all. I'll just need to keep 2 keys. One for doors/trunk and one for the inside compartments. Thanks for any help ...

I bought my car as a lemon and fixed it up. The brakes were incredibly rusted and had to be grounded down to get beneath the rust. The light came on sometimes to often. When I was able to completely replace the brakes, the light went away. Now, the light comes on only (sometimes) when I totally avoid warming up the car or if it is very cold out. In these cases, after I have driven the car for about 15 minutes, I stop (usually go do my morning workout). When I get back to the car, the light stays off for the drive to work and for the rest of the day. The other thing that seems to affect the light coming on is the amount of fluid in the system. It can be slightly low and will activate the ABS before it activates the regular brake light.

Some of these stories remind me of a Volvo I owned. Before I had to say goodbye to it, it had over 285,000 miles and ran well. With maintenance and replacements (as necessary) a car can last a lifetime.

"I think it is common to feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal on start up as the ABS system checks itself or pressurize, so that may not be a problem." - Yes, I agree. I just meant that the trouble light goes out after I hear a knock, that I feel through the brake pedal. "3800 V6 engines have a fair amount ot torque, but it should feel smooth, not the acceleration rush normally associated with turbocharged cars." If I'm going slowly, I don't feel the acceleration. It's when I pass people that I sink into the seat. Only had one chance this weekend to do a test run for 0-60. Going up a hill, at 45 degrees, it took 9 secs. Not really ideal conditions for testing. I'm sure it'd do better on a flat surface. I have noticed that it seems to lose power on very sharp corners or turning from a stop. Going straight, it does great, power is quick and sharp - the engine moves faster than the wheels. "The noise could be from the wind against a misplaced or "shifted" body panel. Air leaks are common on cars that have sustained front end or side damage." Checked this weekend. The noise is distinctly tied to the speed of the engine, not the wind. Ex has my daughter this weekend, so I'll report more after this weekend.