Reatta45

I have to remove my Reatta. It has been setting outside for Over 10 years completely neglected. I stopped driving it when the digital Dash started to go out. Had it in storage for a long while, but then it was placed outside. The interior now has been wet and has mold. At the time I stopped driving it everything but the dash worked as it should. If anyone has an interest you can contact me at 316-290-9246. It needs to go to someone that can use it or it will go to scrap, but in any case it needs to be gone for what ever $ I can get for it. Located East of Wichita, Ks. Call or text if you have any questions. Thanks, KennyV

Have not been here in years... Hello to everyone that is still around. I have decided to sell my 91 Black Coupe, Saddle interior.... The display quit, so I stopped driving it... That has been several years ago... I forget the miles it is over 150K (digital Dash not working)... Engine and transmission are perfect, I have always ran synthetics in everything... AC is perfect R12... It has Sun Roof & 16 way seat, I had added a Sony remote CD changer and a transmission cooler and Barneys Headlight bell cranks. I am the second owner and have had it since mid 1999. I have not tagged it for the last couple years, have not started it in the last 3 years. (always figured I would get around to it ...but have not). I had it in storage but took it out this year and don't want it just setting out. What I know it needs... A new owner. Battery. Digital Dash Rear brake line just sprang a leak (This is what made me realize I need to sell it & let someone that will appreciate this car, get it back on the road). $2500 OBO... Located near Wichita, Kansas If your interested call me at 316 290 9246.. I will get back with you asap.

You can get a special puller/pusher tool loaned from AutoZone or ORilies and most other parts stores...

If you are referring to the clutch bearing, it is easy, remove the bolt in the center, it holds the clutch assembly on the compressor shaft. unplug the wiring, screw a larger diameter bolt, I believe 3/8, into the center hole (it threads into the clutch) that will push the clutch assembly from the compressor shaft. KennyV.

If you are in an area that dose not get very cold, heat pump will work well. You can get a small room size, (like used in motels), very reasonable, check with your local heat & air wholesale supplier.

180

For testing purposes ONLY... You can check the condition of the large vacuum line (5) and the brake switch (4) easily: This is a redundant vacuum dump port on the controller. Unplug the large vacuum line at the controller, (easy to get to) Plug that port on the controller. The system will work perfectly without that line and the dump switch. BUT if there is an electrical problem or an internal plug in the controllers internal dump circuit you will not be able to cancel the CC by tapping on the brake. Try the system where it is safe, If it is a problem other than with part # 4 or 5 you may need to cancel the CC using the CC on/off switch. KennyV

Or you can buy the best replacements from Barney Eaton, you can find him on this forum...

Russ... This is only one of the reasons to always use a hi side gage, You need to know what's happening while adding. If you are lucky you may not have harmed the expansion area when moisture froze and plugged the system, also you put a very heavy load on the compressor. And you were lucky that a line didn’t bust, You do not want to be hosed down with liquid refrigerant. BEFORE adding, when you start out with little or no pressure in the system, it is very likely that moisture has been drawn into that system. Pull a deep vacuum for at least a half hour or more, to boil out all the moisture. It would seem you were lucky to this point , so you may still be in luck and have a working A/C when you recharge the <span style="font-weight: bold">evacuated, dry, system.</span> KennyV.

Ha ha ... Ronnie you have a good sense of humor... I am just going to guess but with the fog light switch on the console (91) model, someone may have tapped into the wiring at the switch when they put the CD in... I would check that first... KennyV.

I am sure right after the "accident" someone will buy a set of gauges. This may seem like a silly question... If you are already using one gauge, why not hook up the one that will not only tell you the general condition of the system, show you the valves operating, help identify restrictions, but also prevent an overcharge? I also use R12 in my Reatta. But overcharge damage is the same without regard to refrigerant type.

You can get plug in adapters to go to stock GM plugs. Crutchfield, or any other radio shop, bestbuy there are a lot of places... even WalMart caries some... no need to cut factory plugs...

??? <span style="font-weight: bold">Never</span> fill any AC without both Hi and Low side gauges. It is dangerous and expensive to overfill with any refrigerant. If you want it perfect use superheat method, but no matter what you are doing use <span style="font-weight: bold">BOTH</span> gauges <span style="text-decoration: underline">and wear eye protection</span>, especially if you are trying to guess using temperature conversions.

Don't know about other years but a 91 grounds through the hinges... not always great as can be seen with the light in the lid. KennyV

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wally888</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> . A friend brought some items to sell. I bought 3 , 12 oz cans of R-12 and 2 cans of oil for $30. </div></div> Looks like a good deal... Garage sale days are coming up, and you can usually find cans of R12 between 5 and 10 dollars.