Mark Gregush

No he did not influence me, but I did get most of my mechanical skills from him. Most all the cars he owned were out of necessity/price not as a collector. Back in the 70s, I was looking to buy a Model A, he talked me out of everyone we went to look at. He didn't see what I saw. He just saw a pile of parts (basket cases), I saw a running car. My grandfather had a shop in Spokane Washington back in the mid to late teens, worked on Model T's, that was more the influence that led me to T's.

Bought my 1946 Dodge one-ton short flatbed from Don, one of the farmers up the road in 1973 or 1974 (17 at the time) for $75. Had bought it new just after the war. As it was my first car (truck) I wish I knew what happened to it after I sold it. Was going to community college and needed something that got better mileage.

You need to put the information about what they fit and that they are for sale in the title. You might also list them in the GM for sale section: General Motors Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

You are coming in on a post from 2011 that until you posted, was last seen 6 years ago. Chances of someone getting to the end of it or having the information you need are slim. You need to start a whole new post/topic using the info of what you need in the title.

When I built my Huckster I used light canvas and sprayed with that same stuff. Faded over time and had to redo but worked fine overall.

Maybe start a new post with what you are looking for in the title.

Many city's required you to exit the (USA) passenger/curb side anyway, so no big deal getting in on that side.

You might check the library here at the AACA. They might have something. The contact info is right up there in the header.

I would suggest skipping big name auctions. Those prices are competition bidding (as in, I am going to outbid the other guy no matter what), not real reflection of the car market. Of course, this also might depend on what car you are talking about.

Thanks! Between a PM here and help on Facebook, think I have it figured out.

Just got a nice 115 Johns Manville speedometer, have the cable housing. Couple of questions: Could someone post a picture of the of the square drive end (speedometer end) and does anyone know who could make a new cable for it? I have a length of cable with the square drive but it came out of an AC speedometer so there would be a gap between the bottom of the drive and where it should ride in the housing which would allow too much up/down movement. Thanks

1926 or 1927.

Aftermarket item that would have been normally mounted on the running boards. Back in the day, like the 20's, the set would have had one for gas, one for water and one for oil. Your set looks to have 2 for gas and one for water.

There were some 600W years back that foamed real bad. Don't know if that is what you are using so just a thought. Don't know the layout on the 39 transmission, but it is possible that the vent is plugged.

Did you lube the paddle? Think it was Vaseline. Following recommendation from Trico folder from back in the day, I have used Dot 3 brake fluid to revive mine.

RE malware. The page is correct and thought maybe that was just me. I added it to my exceptions, but you may want to wait. The club also has a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/dodgebros/

Sorry but, what do you mean by the crank was resurfaced? Was it ground or did you do the sandpaper polish? If it was ground, the bearings will need to be redone. Yes, the spacers came in different thicknesses to adjust clearance. Clearance, I would shoot for .0015-.002. http://myersearlydodge.com/ https://romardb.com/ I extend an invitation to Join the Dodge Brothers Club: http://dodgebrothersclub.org/

Thinking somewhat modern piece. Notice the size of the rectangle around the DB emblem, bet they could just change the center to a bowtie or Ford as examples, instead of redoing the whole master for each car brand. Could have been sold by someone like Restoration Supply Co. or others. The shape and size looks like the more modern (last 40-50 years LOL) Ford and Chevrolet ones I have.

Here is the 115 volt type: Cramer Model A Interval Timer 115V 60CV 10 Amp Type TD-1c – TZSupplies.com

Did they use any copper coat sealant that you can see looking at the seam? I retorque heads several times after going through several hot/cold cycles.

Nice job. However, I am going to say that if you are going to put turn signals on a car, they should be where people expect to see them, two at the rear and two at the front, not hidden in the middle of the car and that low where they would only be visible with the viewer being directly in line with them. In practice, bet people getting in will be grabbing them to help get in.

Defiantly post in the Dodge Brothers section down below. There are a number of guys that live in New Zealand and Australia that might have more experience with magnetos that post in that section. Which magneto does your car have? It might have number one indicated on the cap. Unless fitted later, don't think any came with the impulse coupler, not shown in the 1914-1927 parts catalog.

Ford Model A parking brake.

What is that black goop? "I put electrical tape around the center hub cap to try to cushion it from the wrench."

Think someone miss typed a lot of the bolt size. 114-20 = 1/4-20 5116-18 = 5/16-18 etc the J should be a /.