Mark Gregush

Also flexible. This might help. Wood Strength (workshopcompanion.com)

Steve Coniff of Colorado Springs passed yesterday after a long health battle. He was a Montana 500 winner, Rosenthal award winner, mentor and friend to many. I visited him a couple month ago, his wife Janet made lunch for us and Steve and I went up to his shop and spent some time reminiscing. He did so much for me and so many others. Our trip to the mountains in the model T’s is forever engrained in my sons and my memories. Such a great man and so much knowledge lost. Our hobby has lost a giant, rest in peace. Passing of Steve Coniff - MTFCA Forum

The Dodge Brothers pictures start at about page 9 in above link.

You might try re-asking this question the pre war Buick forum as a new question. I see you did ask it there but is on page 3 of other question you have had. Someone might have the tool or know of someone that does. Heat may or may not work. Both metals might expand at about the same rate and still be stuck. The one that fell out; it may have spun in the hub so is loose. You might need to use sleeve lock to hold in place if reusing or if replacing with new may still need to do the same. My guess is would have been press fit. I have a feeling that those 1/2 circle cutouts played a part in how the tool worked. May have helped keep the puller from rotating too much, putting too much side force on the pulling pins. Don't know just making a guess. Quick sketch of something that might work. I know it is a bad drawing but might give you some ideas. Quick add; the part the spring loaded pins are in would be made out of DOM tubing sized to be a slip fit in sleeve. (Drawn Over Mandrel)

Looks like you need to clean those 2 holes out and use them to pull the sleeve. Guessing the puller might have had spring loaded arms or other means of keeping the arms with pins spread apart to keep the pins in those holes. Then the pulling frame for it sat around the opening, being open in the center with a threaded top. The arms remained stationary with the threaded section being allowed to rotate in it so as to pull straight up as the threaded rod was turned, pulling the sleeve up and out.

Checking the Mechanics' Instruction Manual, I don't see any information on the clearance between the plates. Until everything is assembled and in the car, there really wouldn't be a way to check clearance, the spring would be putting everything under a lot of compression. Once in the car, you would then adjust the pedal and linkage for full disengagement of the disks. Thinking it might take a few adjustments as parts wear in. You might try re-asking this question down in the Dodge Brothers section. Did someone install a later engine or just change out the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and transmission? Don't forget to install the 2 springs.

There is a page on Facebook that deals with replica antique cars such as what you have. Still, what hook said would be correct, there are too many variables for anyone to help at this point. (1) Horseless carriage replica's | Facebook

These are Ford Model T, but same idea; Model T Ford Forum: Unusual Shocking Absorbers (mtfca.com)

How about a full picture of the whole item?

Try running the wire directly to the battery terminal on the ignition switch instead of to the ampere meter terminal. Does not matter if you have floor switch, dash push button, floor push button to engage the Bendix or pull cable, you are going to have power to the starter when those are activated on most all early cars up to the advent of the turn the key to "start". Don't over think it.

Maybe try contacting Eaton; Engine valves | Automotive engine valves manufacturer | Eaton

Jack to rase car off the ground for winter storage to take weight off tires. The cutout went under the hubcap. The sliding part moved up and down and locked into place when the arm was swung down. Would have come in a set of 4. This one looks to have been made for a specific distance as it does not look to be adjustable for height.

Looks like a can opener. The point punctures the top and blade cuts the top around the top edge. Search vintage can opener. Could not find one like it but found similar types.

You have another post in the Buick section for the same car. In both cases, you need to start your own post in the correct section instead of coming in at the end of old post. While more than likely both Dodge and Buick would be removed the same way, there might be something that could be holding yours up that would be different then if it were a Dodge. You don't say in either post if the engine is in or out of the car. Fairly sure in either case, the bellhousing would have to come off to remove the transmission. Is that what is un-bolted? I would suggest filling in those blanks when you start a new posting. Best of luck.

Finally scored an OD-1 from eBay with the needed neck. Just came today. The fresh air vent/shutter I will have to figure out, as well as the elbow and straight tube for air pre-heat.

Dodge Brothers 1918 to 1926.

You might change the title to "Help beauty trim rings, what do they fit" or just "Wheel trim rings, what do they fit".

Get photos before you commit to buy. I had a set of new Dodge Brothers top bows that lost their shape retainers (wood slat across the bottom to help keep their shape) many years ago and because of how/where they were stored, spread out quite a bit. Think the Sahara Desert has more moisture than they did! Was not sure what year or body style they were for, so decided to not mess with them. Part of the bending process is heat, so decided that just soaking them in cold water (didn't have room anyway) more than likely wouldn't get me anywhere with time and energy spent to end up with the wrong ones at the end. I made them go away.

You are sitting at the computer, why don't you try doing a search on the internet. And no, the serial number does not help. Post a photo of the one in question.

Looking online at images I found images of both twin and single fire ZR6's. Twin fire would be for 6 cylinder engines with 2 sparkplugs per cylinder. Dual would be for firing on either magneto or regular coil/battery setup.

You could also try Myers.

maybe boat?

There should be someone here on the west coast, down in California. If he doesn't make the wood bows, then might be able to put you in touch with someone that does. I didn't read the post but if you do a search of "John's Enterprises in Auburn California", several posting will come up with that information.

Some shown in below link are a bit more decorated might show the concept; antique - Google Search