Mark Gregush

You can't just change the gear on the cover, you have to change the gear on the sliding gear shaft too. Left and right hand drive setups use different tooth counts pitches and go different directions. One angles to left the other to the right when you look at them.

1920 to ? Dodge Brothers.

That speedometer on eBay is a REO not Dodge, so might not even fit the hole.

RE bolts through spokes into drum, MPL shows start starting serial # in very early January 1920 at 434412 over lapping to 436468, with a notation of 12588 (DB part# of the bolt but no picture) for cars above 490734 (later June/July 1920). I read the 490734 date wrong last night and changed it. I had originally miss understood the dates of when the bolts through the spokes started and thought the ones on my car (440XXX) were wrong. Going back and seeing when they started, would indicate that they might be correct.

There are a lot of people on the road that don't see them or misjudge their speed. The shape of them or color just does not register as a car. I added a 3rd brake light to my 1920 Dodge touring. It is mounted at the top bolt that would hold the spare tire bracket, along with two taillights. Turn signals to come later.

Wide 5 was stock on the Ford cars.

Ford wide 5 1936 to around 1939ish. Ford "wide five" Brake Drums - The Ford Barn But that rear axle setup is kinda strange. Should have the two axles attached to the center section for cars. The trucks used a housing setup like that, the 1937 version is shown in Victor Page's repair manual but trucks didn't use the transverse spring.

Brush Automobiles - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

Was that count for just the USA or did it include Canada? Been a while, I worked on a really nice 33 or 34 coupe with the 4 cylinder engine. Cleaned the gas tank and recharged the gas gauge.

I went to eBay and looked at sold/completed, of course now that I said something, there were none in the past 90 days. Looking at the classifieds on the Ford Model T Club of America the only one I found sold, went for around 650 but was restored with heat stove. The other two I found were offered up at 125 and 200 US with no apparent takers. For aftermarket carbs, the market for The Wheeler-Schebler FA is much smaller than for the Stromberg OF or even LF. The Schebler FA would be about = to Stromberg LF, where as the later versions of the Schebler with the enriching valve would be about the same as the Stromberg OF. At the other end of the price range, I just found this one: THE WHEELER SCHEBLER CARBURETOR CO INDIANAPOLIS PAT PENDING | eBay It is missing the float valve and maybe the float, but great price for core value. My suggest re price would be to drop to around $199 and expect to move down if it does not sell. You might also try to lighten up the photos, they are on the dark side. Below is an older post showing the FAX with the enriching valve.

Good luck selling it. Your starting price is way over market. Might want to do a little price checking.

This one was made for the Ford Model T as an aftermarket item. If you do a search of "mtfca; Schebler" or "mtfca Wheeler Schebler" you should find lots of information on them. If you are looking to sell, they are not rare and prices are not as high as the Strombergs made for the Ford Model T. I like them as do a few others. The FA would be correct for this model. The number changed later when the enricher valve was added.

Very nice car. I kinda like the extra horns and driving lights. They balance well with the dual fender mounted spare tires.

No harder them any of the outside brakes that people install.

Off topic. RE Model T's. Or that they want more controlled stopping without skidding. Skidding is not stopping, been there done that more than a few times! Also, if installing any type of inline transmission, such as a Warford, that does or can have a neutral, adding some type of extra brakes to the car, such as disk or Rocky Mountain, is needed.

I had a 46 Dodge truck that seemed to have hot weather starting issues. It was hard starting after it got warmed up. What I was told back then was that the starter was drawing too much current with not enough left to fire the plugs so I would flood the engine cranking and pumping that gas pedal. Got to be standard procedure to pull the air cleaner off and stuff a rag down through the carb and soaked up any excess gas pooling in the intake that I could reach with the rag on whatever was handy. Of course, that gave the engine time to cool down in the meantime, so was probably not necessary, but it occupied my time rather than just standing there. Sold the truck later, never did anything with the starter.

They are fine here, that is what this section is for but you could also cross post in the Ford section. After working on Model A's for a number of years, they just are not ringing any bells. Because Ford kept the root parts numbers for a number of years, they might have something to do with windshield wipers. My later truck parts book skips that number but would be within that range.

You may know this but others might not: While I cannot help on the cross reference, hopefully the replacement core comes with the crush seals for seating the ceramic insert. They or something close can be found with some searching. Reusing the old ones, can be a crap shoot if they will seal or not. Not talking about the crush ring used between the sparkplug and head.

You missed my original post that I corrected re you location and now have removed.

Be different and keep the righthand drive. I see right hand drive cars here in the Portland Oregon area all the time. Shouldn't be too hard if all the holes are in place in the body and frame. You might need a bellhousing with pedals, steering column, tie rod(?), drag link(?), spindles(?) with arms along with any bits and bobs to hook up the brakes both service and parking, gas pedal assembly, throttle or spark link/rods if it uses them. Might also need the transmission top if you need to change the location of the parking brake lever. Sounds like a simple weekend job! Not really! lol The easy part would be that you are changing to left hand drive and a decent parts car of the same vintage should supply you with everything you would need.

For the fronts at least, are the inner and outer races missing? If not, you can get replacements balls.

I have considered installing a dip stick in place of the float. Don't get it? If there are no holes/leaks, there should be no way for it to just drop if the engine is not running. Oh well drive and be careful!

Also, you need to put what you are looking for in the title. Use the edit to add it.

mtfca "stromberg of carburetor" - Google Search

Ford Model T takes just under 4 qts. lol