BulldogDriver

If you are determined in using an Edelbrock look at the Martin’s website for more info on using them. http://centervilleautorepair.com I don’t think the difference between a Quad and AFB would warrant the extra expense. I had a chance to get a Quad intake but passed. The height difference between the 2 carbs would have to be considered for modifying the air cleaner. I originally thought 3/4” was enough to do the job but clearances on the Edelbrock dictated the 1 1/2”. The air cleaner is now just below the original height. Now if some is determined to use the adapter for the original hole size on the air cleaner, I will give it to you so you don’t spend 50 bucks for one. Just pay the shipping. Ray

Also don’t try to use an adapter for the original air cleaner. There is almost a 50% reduction in area between the 5 1/8” Edelbrock and the original carburetor cover/top. The adapter will interfere with the Air Fuel Ratios. I am tuning my installation using an AFR gauge and can vouch that it caused a significant lean condition at the circuit transition. I modified my original air cleaner to cit the new carb and the lean problem has improved significantly. I had a metal shop roll a 1/8” thick piece of steel to 5 1/8” ID, weld it to the air cleaner and cut the opening to the new size. The new piece had to be 1 1/2” high to clear the carb and keep the correct height as originally on the car. I also added 2 oval openings in the rear of the cleaner to let the carb breathe better. If you look at the snorkel on the cleaner it is somewhat restricted. Ray

Do a search here on the forum for both. There’s a lot written on installing aftermarket systems. Ray

Maybe a call to Coil Springs Specialty to ask how they know the particulars of what they sell us would shed some light on the subject. https://www.coilsprings.com/ Ray

Everyone thanks for the replies. I’m out of town till Tuesday and will respond when I get back. Ray

Attached are a few photos of the baffle I added. Baffles are used in aviation to make sure air is controlled to be able to get the best heat exchange possible. In this case to completely go through the radiator then out the back of the engine compartment. The same amount of air is moved by the fan with or without the baffle. Though it may not be much of an improvement I wanted to get as much air through the radiator as possible with the engine running as hot as it does. The shroud is attached and positioned the same way as it would be if the baffle was not used. I have read that the fan blades should be partially outside of the shroud but if you look at the one photo, the blades are only about a 1/4 to 3/8” outside of the baffle. I was under the impression that they needed to further out. The shroud is a repop. The external transmission cooler is at the bottom of radiator and runs across the entire width. An external cooler was recommended by the rebuilder. Please ignore the position of the air cleaner snorkel, there are 2 other openings of the same size in the rear of it. It has to be in this position due to a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) mounted on the carburetor. A lot of work on the air cleaner to make this fit on the Edelbrock carb. Ray

I’m trying to chase a problem with my engine running hot all the time. The temps around here in North Carolina have been in the 70-80’s lately. The engine is climbing up to 203-208* range whether it is below 50mph or above. It hasn’t overheated and I have put about 1000 miles on it since all of the upgrades and rebuild. Problem doesn’t seem to change with A/C on or off. Everything is either new or verified as new. Engine ran fine on 3000 miles cross country 4 years ago with speed up to 80mph. Engine did not over heat or show signs of running hot. I didn’t have a temperature gauge on it at the time so don’t know what the true temperature was and didn’t use the A/C as it had problems. Cylinder walls were glazed and was the only reason for pulling engine a part. Fresh rebuild on a 401 0.60” over with moly rings and Best head gaskets. Timing is set at 12* with 30* max on a rebuilt distributor with an electronic conversion kit. Vacuum is on the ported side of the carburetor. Timing verified as correct though out the rpm range. Cooling system has been gone over with original 3 row radiator cleaned and verified not clogged by a reputable shop. 160* thermostat, FlowKooler water pump, original 5 blade fan, 16# cap, new HD Hayden fan clutch #2747, fan shroud with baffles around the perimeter to make sure all air is pulled through the radiator, and original A/C pulleys. I have changed out the original A/C to a Vintage Air completely. The condenser is the largest I could fit and covers the front of the radiator almost completely which, if I remember correctly, was the way the original one did. I have also changed over to a 4L60E transmission that uses the radiator cooler along with an external cooler that sits in front of the radiator and condenser at the bottom of both. I know that the shown temperature is correct as it shows the same on the temp gauge and on the transmission controller, within a few degrees. Here’s what I don’t know: How far from the radiator did the condenser originally mount? What are the dimensions of the original condenser? How much hotter would a .060” bored engine run? How much more taxing is an external transmission cooler to the cooling system? My thoughts of the next thing to do is: Eliminate the external transmission cooler. Remove the baffles I added to the shroud. Move condenser further away from the radiator. Thoughts? Ray

Yes Tony from Down Under was who I got both front and rear sway bars from. I also used his conversion kit for front disc brakes. I had considered Tom T’s sway bar but Tony’s mount points are either directly to the frame or the differential which is what I wanted. I personally don’t think that Tom T’s is better or worse just a different approach to the task. Either one should get you down the road without an unpleasant experience. I’m not sure if Tony is still doing either one of these upgrades now. An email should resolve that question. Shipping is probably quite a bit more today, I got these from him over 3 years ago and even than the lead time was around 4-6 months if I remember correctly. One thing I will say about the Aussie’s, they have to be quite resourceful in coming up with parts to keep these old cars moving. They have a lot more restrictions on what they are allowed to use. Thank them for what I think was a great resolution to the rear bushing mounts issue. My car has decent original bushings still on it but a set of the Aussie bushings are sitting on the shelf for a time I’m bored and looking for something to do…… Yeah right! tonyg@mako.com.au Ray

Done. Ray

Yeah, didn’t see the deleted post. Was sitting at the vets waiting for them to look at my dog and got bored. I’ll quietly stay bored next time. Ray

Jim it’s the same guy you gave advice on the engine stalling after one muffler was replaced. He is in France if I remember correctly and English isn’t his first language. I think he just trying to part of the gang and didn’t realize the post was old. Ray

Best is to get a catalog from them so you can see all of the pieces available and ask for samples of the color/material you are going to use. The people at Clarks are very knowledgeable about Gen 1’s. Ray

T/A Performance show replacement tips for Nailheads. Page 56 in their catalog. Centerville Auto (Russ or Matt) probably have them also. I’d ask about lifters as they do a lot of rebuilds each year exclusively on Nailheads. Tom T might be able to help if he’ll let go some from his stash. Ray

One call to Russ/Matt will resolve any questions. Ray

Ed he stated that it was transplanted with a Buick 350. I’m surprised that the steering column fitted so well. Ray

Pilot hole for Dynaflow is larger than the later transmission’s torque converter. I believe he also has flex plates to matchup for using a ‘63 crank. He had all of that for my 4L60E conversion on my ‘63. Make sure you know which transmission you have in your car. http://centervilleautorepair.com/ Ray

Mine’s a second week of April with chrome A pillar and painted for the rest of the trim. It’s a deluxe interior car. Ray

Attached are all 5 pieces and their location on my 63. Pieces marked 1&2 are drivers side with 3-5 on passenger side. These are replacements but should be close to original ones as I checked before replacing them. Ray

If this helps: Ray

1. Gates hose 3/4” to 5/8” #18075 -60 used on Vintage Air conversion. 2. ARP hardware. 3. 750 CFM Edelbrock, would’ve gone with a 800 AVS2 if they were available at the time. 4. You are correct on the vacuum ports. The loose line goes into the cab so I can see what the vacuum looks like while driving as I dial the carb in. Ray

Heater hose that runs between the intake and valve cover can be gotten from Gates with a 90* bend. I used a 3/4” to 5/8” for my installation of a Vintage Air system. They make them with same size on both ends. Both hoses fit very nicely in that space. The Alan Grove bracket works fine with a Sanden compressor. The adaptor shown for Air cleaner is not a good thing. I was using one with an Edelbrock and had a serious leaning problem at different throttle positions, verified with AFR gauge. If you do a calculation of the differences in sizes you will see there’s almost a 50% difference in area between the two. I’m in the process of opening my air cleaner to a true 5 1/8” which should correct the problem. I’ll post more on the modification once I have it finished. Ray

I've also been to Steele’s and bought all of their replacement seals. They have gone up in price a bit. Ray

Try this group. Call or email them. https://www.oldairproducts.com/ Ray

PT139 is the connector with boot as part of the assembly. Console and glove box are many, many, many hours of reworking. The plastic used back in the day is quite the challenge keeping it from fracturing. Ray

Yes a “tee” fitting for the oil pressure senders. The indicator oil light sender is a PT64 with PT139 boot to also control power to the electric choke, dropped the EFI and went with carburetor instead. Gauge for oil pressure, voltage, and water temp is a Dakota Digital ODYR/SLX-40-1 installed in the ashtray. Put the water temp sender for the multi-gauge in the rear head hole and indicator in front head. The alternator is a 150 amp S12 unit with appropriate wiring upgrades. Needed it when the engine had EFI on it. Heat riser valve was removed and holes tapped for bolts. Ray