BulldogDriver

Side photo of mine. Ray

Superbright leds Rear Brake/turn 1034 red and Front Park/turn 1157 amber is what I used. Ray

#1034’s in red are nice and bright. Ray

Alan Grove bracket Ray

I’m currently working on a solution to open an original Air Cleaner’s carb hole to 5 1/8” that will be practical and not so hard to do that you couldn't get it done almost anywhere. Your only concern would be if the Quad was taller than an original carb. Will post asap. Ray

Joe Jesser is the key guy. Best would be to pull the locks and send to him. If you pull the trunk lock it will have the original key number on it, as long as ‘it is’ the original cylinder. I think he can set the cylinders to be the same key if he has all of the culinders. http://jessersclassickeys.com/ Ray

It’s amazing what can be hidden in the ashtray! All the original idiot lights still work and the multi-function gauge is bright enough to be seen in all lighting conditions. Ray

Pretty sure the sliders will only work on a Vintage Air conversion. If you download their catalog it has all of the parts needed for an install. If you do a search for Vintage Air on the forum it will give you more info then one would think, 11 pages was what I saw. A word of caution, the original radio would not fit with a Gen 4 evaporator because of the original defroster vents placement. Had to go with an aftermarket unit, Resto Manufacturing, but they have a weak display in sunlight. If you leave the kick panel vent’s controls in their original location, there won’t be any cables used on the control panel. Ray

Yes the sliders are an option you can do rather than an after market control mounted in the center console. Drop the control panel, remove the cables as they are not needed anymore but save the cable ends to hold the sliders to the panel, pick three positions that will be the controls for the A/C. I also moved the kick panel vent controls up to the panel so that is also an option. Very clean and looks stock. Ray

If you are putting a Vintage Air system in there is no stress on the arms. If your arms are still in good shape you shouldn’t need to replace them. Ray

Was working on a phone. Very small tabs to push, and meant 1963. Ray

Must be something on your end. I just did this. Ray

Mine were also reupholstered with the brackets and covers gone. Thankfully Gene had these. I also used Truss head screws to hold them onto the brackets rather then trying to source the plastic buttons. Ray

I believe Gene sold me his lat pair at the beginning of the year. Lucked me! Ray

Email him and ask. james@bestoffercounts.com Ray

Look at BestOfferCounts on eBay. James was selling them. He also has a website https://bestoffercounts.com but the eBay store is the most current. Ray

Or use the hose that I suggested and you wouldn’t have induced another place to leak from. Hose was about $18. Ray

Mark 5/8” hose is what should be used on the Vintage Air parts. I’m not sure how your hoses are routed, mine are between the cylinder head and intake. I used a hose that steps 3/4” to 5/8” with a 90* bend on the water pump side. Gates #18075 -60. Ray

Mark that photo looks to be on engine side of the firewall. There should be hard tubing going through the firewall to heater hose on the interior side that will then go to the heater core fittings in the evaporator. If you don’t have coolant leaking on the interior side than at worst the hard tubing going through the firewall could be your problem. You should be able to get a replacement from Vintage Air. This is how mine is done on my Gen 4 unit. The hoses are less than 6” between the evaporator and the and the firewall fittings if I remember correctly. Ray

A photo of the leak would be helpful. Ray

All my high amp draw circuits are now on relays. Easily hidden in the to cubby holes on the drivers side of the lower dash and would not be seen by a judge. Separate relays for both low and high headlights and hide them behind the battery on the inner fender. Buried the wires in the harness when I rewrapped them. If you use wire ties as Ed suggested, its fairly easy to do. Take the harness out of course. Ray

GXL/SXL by the foot https://www.wirebarn.com Ray

You can search my posts. I did a Vintage Air Gen 4 in my 63. It can be done using the original slider controls and vents. The only issue is that a Gen 4 will take up too much area to be able to put the original radio back in. I believe it is because of the defroster vent being in the center of the dash. 64 & 65 have not encountered the problem from what I’ve seen. Others have used a Gen 2. Ray

Thes guys have the best that I have seen. I was able to get pretty much everything for my 63. https://www.steelerubber.com/search Ray

I had the same issue on my ‘63. Used 2 set screws epoxied into the lid. Make sure not to use too long screws so they clear the console. I finished them off with acorn nuts. Ray