BulldogDriver

US Shifter’s unit. Works fine but to make everything mount nicely I had to custom make a bracket to hold it in place. Like most things it takes a bit of time to tie it together. Ray

When I changed over to the 4L60E transmission I had a shop that engraves trophies make one up to reflect the new shift detentions, proper bevels, and colors. It wasn’t cheap. Ray

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362608303734?_nkw=1964+riviera+wiring+diagram&itmmeta=01J656WAQS9QKMXYWMP6HKNQ7H&hash=item546d239e76:g:HGMAAOSwNphWXarb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnc78efzfUfMTltaplrxScJy60qVxHAxGILCEyDVgFjytR%2BS%2BICJt3yYyyStjq7pHMXSoHzgD6euGFNr6mCOPa7dB6hjGV%2B2MXsC%2BiI2AV6hbzr8iFqN5oNVDMoVyexoy2bt8HFqG82pIsbXgkYN5FK5G%2FULMRnj2VMYUxFR3%2FVC5Q1qhqP7sV%2BXCreGoInKJrX5ghEyjzX4joJ9XSRP2nVqHM5K4L3ymo1fxrWSLTGbU4VZgodMBrX7dSF8N8%2FXKkORAe3CcVD92%2BReUMrtjC%2FDcLYU3nZejHxqTYs9Su5sfln8rbNQl3f%2Ff7Ys%2B9gy30%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_ir8aaxZA this is what a lot of us use. Ray

I don’t know. Did the window work okay before? If not maybe the previous owner changed this and didn’t correct the problem before he sold it to you. I was only making the observation of the diagram showing a manual door and not a power door. Good luck Ray

Unless I’m not seeing the diagram correctly it looks like the diagram is for a “manual” window and not a “power” window. #9 might not t be pertinent to the problem. Ray

James at Best Offer Counts should be able to take care of you. Best thing to do with the u-joints is to find a shop familiar with doing these. As far as I can see there are no full kits available to do the CV joints. I’ve been looking for a full kit for years with no luck. Ray

Talk to James at BestOfferCounts. Ray

Ed, is this on the 64? My front crossover tube from Classic wasn't correct on my ‘63 so I had them send me straight tube and copied the original one. Ray

So I had some free time, kind of rare lately, and came up with a solution for a reliable tire jack for all Riviera’s with a frame. Mine didn’t come with a jack and I don’t like bumper jacks so I got a ‘90’s vintage 3/4 ton GM truck jack, sawed the tabs off of the engagement pad of the jack and cut the hex socket off of the wrench handle. Squared up the handle to receive a 1/2” drive deep 13/16” socket and picked up a 6”x2” 2 1/2” wide u-channel. Cut one leg down to 1” so the jack will slide under the frame when a tire is flat. Weld the u-channel square on all 4 sides to the engagement pad to keep the weight centered on the jack. Only need to do the sides that align with the jack arms, plenty of contact area. Weld the socket to the handle clean everything up and paint it nice and pretty, then put a piece of self adhesive rubber pad to protect the frame. Total cost was $105 minus the paint. Ray

Ed, my post was for the electric choke. I have a ‘T’ connection that has the original sender and this on the oil pressure outlet. Two senders sharing the same outlet. Ray

Oil pressure sender PT64 for electric choke Note that in the wiring diagram below, the "P" terminal is the "C" (common" terminal), the "S" terminal is the "N.C." (normally closed) and the "I" terminal is the "N.O." (normally open). Use PT139 pigtail. Ray

I know that James checks the fitting on his parts. I think he also includes shipping. BestOfferCounts. Ray

Made out of Fiberglass material now. They will cover it in vinyl of your choice. Ray

Vintage Air makes an evaporator for left hand drive cars? Ray

Gordon, I thought the core body came painted before being put onto the frames. If so then the front clip would most likely have been painted in another plant and mated on final assembly, correct? Amazing that the paint jobs were spot on. Ray

John have you by chance bench tested the booster using a Mityvac? Cap the ends off and pull 18-21” of vacuum and see if it holds. If your ears are still good, have a listen for the leak or get an assistant that can hear, I have to all the time now days. When I went to dual circuit/disc brakes I eliminated all of the original stuff and went with unit from a 70’s buick. Pedal is a bit harder but it stops just fine. Ray

Air with aftermarket radio and oil pressure/engine temp/volts, cruise control, dual usb and spare led indicators. Lower side vents controlled by the original console levers. Ray

Ed I think Vintage Air’s catalog would show dimensions for each evaporator unit. Ray

Ed, Here is a post on my install with the same issue. And this. I installed a Vintage Air in my car and yes it is a bit of a challenge to fit it up tight inside, some minor cutting in the center area, and making some extensions for the floor vents, it is very doable using VA’s Gen4 evaporator unit. I think anyone that is up to doing their own work on a car can do this. I had the luxury of being able to do the firewall stuff without working around the engine, mine was out for other work, but others have done this with engine in place. I think one of the nicest things is to be able to use the original controls on my 63 car. The biggest downside for me was losing about an inch of space for the radio and that eliminated the use of the original unit. I have discussed this in other threads. The VA seems to put out plenty of cold air. I’ve had it keep the inside tolerable in 90* plus with the windows down this summer. The thing with converting a R12 to R134 is one unit is made for a particular type of gas and changing over to another will diminish performance. My original AC looked to be rebuildable but once I got into the job it was going to be a lot like what Turbinator Bob went through. So a conversion was looked into. As we are seeing with something as simple as getting an air filter has become impossible and any replacement part questionable as to their reliability will be even more so in the future. My decision to go this route was a matter of reliability and access to parts in the future. The VA conversion has been the least troublesome thing done so far on this car. Installed/charged and has worked fine since. Can’t say that about the other things that I’ve done. I’ve got a good car but it is at best a driver and really doesn’t deplete the gene pool of all the strong original cars out there. It looks original inside and out until you open the hood. Ray

Ed, that should work. Tighten it down slowly as polyethylene bushings are a bunch less compressible than rubber. I used grade 8 hardware with extra flat washers up in the frame. You’ll need to use silicon grease. I went with 26mm and 22mm sway bars. Big difference on body sway. Ray

Talk to James at BestOfferCounts, pretty sure he will have one. Ray

Ed the sway bar caps can be gotten from Summit or Autozone, etc. Just match the bushing to the sway bar diameter. I’ll send you a pair of caps I have but the bushings are for a larger bar. PM me with your address. Ray

The rebuild kit I put into mine has a bearing unit that the to pieces mate to. I believe that was what was originally there but can’t be absolutely sure as it was 4 years ago when done. Ray

What Ed said is true. Idler arms were rebuildable and I rebuilt mine. I believe Cars was the source for the kit. I believe that replacement units that ‘are not’ rebuildable are still available and probably from Cars. Center links are rebuildable if you can source the ball joints. I’ve never come across a post with a part number for these, here or anywhere else. My ball joints and upper control arms seem to still be in proper order but I did replace the boots on the ball joints using “universal” boots from one of the urethane manufacturers. You could do the same on the tie rod’s ball joints to the center link but as far as I know, there is no shim between the tie rods and link. Ray

https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/shop/brake-booster-boots Should be a good start. Ray