TTR

Just like Bhigdog suggested, remove as much as you're able to by whatever methods available (drain plug ? siphon ? etc), refill with fresh fuel and drive (long and hard).

I believe it relatively easy to tell whether a car has its original, i.e. “born with” (for lack of better expression), paint, as it is quite rare to see a color change or update that equals to OEM methods. I think it’s quite unlikely any repainted cars +/-100 years ago were completely disassembled and stripped of all original paint materials, especially if done for the fashion or refreshment update. One just have to be able to tell the difference and/or willing to dig into deeper forensics by removing some exterior or interior paneling/trim/etc. Just like verifying the extent or quality of a “complete/full restoration”. I’ve done both on numerous occasions.

Or could this be just another for sale/marketing advertisement disguised as a alleged/proposed question and every reply will help to keep it on the top of the topic list ? Why else would the mention of “clear title” or direct email be necessary ?

While probably not "the third most ...", still a perfect example of a misnomer. 😉

What does your car's OEM repair/shop/service manual say ?

* I consider all "wearable maintenance items" and alike, i.e. belts, fluids, tires, etc as "consumables". IMO, "Repainted". As far as I know "restored" is probably the most commonly misused term in the old car hobby. "Completely/fully restored" is probably the second most ...

Couple of years ago, after fabricating the aforementioned "Race" type exhaust and my previously fabricated, a bit milder "muffler delete" set up for that car (which the owner thought of being too quiet !?!), I audio/video recorded all three different variations, i.e. stock, muffler deleted (but w/tailpipes & resonators) and "Race" (basically straight pipes exiting before rear tires) by driving same exact route, using same gears and speeds for each session along with two decibel meters. My wife edited all three sessions into a nice comparison compilation. Sorry, but I won't post/share it here or elsewhere publicly. Only I and the car owner have copies and he has agreed not to post or digitally share it with anyone without my permission. P.S. I believe the car owner gets along fine with his neighbors since the car gets taken out for brief pleasure drives only few times during a winter (and when I have it for maintenance off season, i.e. summer).

Without clicking on the link I assume it’s that hideous “thing” resembling some seventies Cadillac which I assume any car guy worth their drivers license would never mistake for a “car”. I don’t know what it is or supposed to be, but it’s definitely not a car. Hint (for those not worth their DL): How and where would this “thing” be driven like a “car” ?

While I agree the license plate in the second photo has typical features of those used in Finland back in the day, i.e. black plate with white lettering (and yes, the “A” indicating Helsinki/Uudenmaa region. It’s the smaller signs before the letter “A” that I failed to see clearly, but could they be letters C & D stacked on top of each other and if yes, I’m sure you know what that would mean, “Corps Diplomatique”, right ?

Just a few weeks ago, I replaced a +/-20 year old exhaust system in a 1960 Chrysler 300F by fabricating & forming everything to factory configuration + new correct OEM size mufflers supplied by local vendor and to much of my disappointment, it is now noticeably louder than the one I took out, which had less than 5K miles, but was internally quite rusted due to infrequent and short use periods (and was constructed/formed in a typical cheap-quick-n-dirty muffler shop fashion). I believe this "louder" sound is simply due to cheaper made mufflers with less insulation. OTOH, I'm currently installing annoyingly loud straight, custom-made "Race" type pipes (which I fabricated couple of years ago) into a pretty much otherwise stock and fully/correctly restored (by me) '71 4-cam V12 Ferrari, merely because the current owner likes it LOUD !! 🙄

Well, based on both or either photos and from where I sit, the shape of the front frame, forward mounting attachments of front springs to it, rear frame shape or the hood design/shape don’t appear anything like a PB, at least not to me. I also don’t believe PB four cylinder engine or rest of the running gear, all capable for 40-45 MPH, would’ve lend them very practical or smart choice for a “racing” car, but who knows, people have done stranger things … Are there more pictures of it from different angles and better yet, inside the cockpit & engine compartment or underside ? Or perhaps before/during construction ? Does it still exists ? Regardless, looks like it would’ve been a blast to drive that 75 mile treck to Hanko. P.S. The first image shows the car wearing “Koe” (“Testing” for temporary use) front plate and second image doesn’t look like Finnish plate of the period. So was it built in Sweden (Blomqvist & Hasselberg both being Swedish language surnames) or … ?

Kuvan autossa ei näytä olevan mitään mikä viittaa nimenomaan ’32 Plymouth PB Roadsteriin (Olen itse omistanut sellaisen jo lähes 35 vuotta ja tähän mennessä ajellut sillä noin 100000 mailia). En osaa sanoa mikä tuon kuvassa näkyvä auton lähtökohta on ollut, mutta luulisin Mobilisti lehden, sen lukijakunnan tai SAHK’n arkistojen pystyvän parhaiten asiassa auttamaan mysteerin selvittämisessä. Minun silmissä kuvan vaunu näyttää Englanti- (Aston Martin, Bentley, jne) tai Ranskalaiselta (Talbot-Lago, jne). Above translated in English: The pictured car doesn’t appear to have any features specific for ‘32 Plymouth PB Roadster (I’ve owned one already nearly 35 years and so far driven her approximately 100000 miles). I can’t say what the car in the picture started as butimagine “Mobilisti” (= local magazine specializing in antique/classic vehicles), its readers or SAHK (= local equivalent of AACA) archives would be best sources to assist with solving this mystery. In my eyes the pictured vehicle looks either English or French origin.

I realize OP asked only about ID’n the alternator and potential need for regulator, but was it made clear what kind of application this engine and/or its charging system components are intended for ? A ‘52 Cadillac, ‘87 Buick, 29 Duesenberg, ‘07 Dodge Truck, airplane, boat or oil well pump with 6V or 12V with negative or positive ground system? Or is it just that nobody cares about basics like this before offering answers or opinions which may or may not be accurate or applicable without them ? Just curious.

@ericdev Thanks for reporting back and I’m glad you got it solved. I’m still having difficulties understanding how the (expected/normal ?) heat or temperature changes in otherwise normally working braking system could create a fluid expansion causing (unexpected/abnormal) braking lockup or how a faulty vacuum operated booster could directly contribute to this. OTOH, there are countless other things in this life and universe I’m still to learn and understand.

Who is going to do the "rebuild" and all the machine work ? You or some experienced* engine/machine shop ? If latter, I would discuss with them and likely let them source everything, especially if they are going to be responsible for assembly. * And not just experienced with engines in general, but also with this era engines & technology.

Well, after owning a PB for almost 35 years and +/- 100.000 miles, I couldn't tell you how many times one of the grille bars have broken off (more commonly at the bottom) in mine. In fact, one fell down about half a second after the attached photo was taken on the day I took delivery of the car back in 1989 (gave us a good laugh). After several times of removing the grille and welding the offending piece, I gave up about 10-15 years ago and now just tie the broken off end of one to the bars on either side of it with "bailing" wire. For me, life is too short to stress over something like this with my own cars, especially if it doesn't affect drivability, reliability or safety and I'll keep wiring any that needs it until something else requires the grille removal. Last time I repaired any was at the time I had the new radiator made in 2015 and now have 3(?) bars wired since. P.S. I don't think epoxy (=JB) or wire feed (=MIG) welding are ideal for something like this as both are too brittle or hard. Properly done Oxy-Acetylene or TIG welds are "softer" and more flexible for something this delicate under constant stress of vibration. I would also consider adding some small rod or narrow sheetmetal strip behind the to-be-welded end for additional support/strength... ... and professionally speaking, I would recommend doing same to top & bottom ends of all bars while the grille is off and accessible. These are over 90 years old, after all.

I believe this would fall under same consideration as buying any old used car, i.e. “If you think you can’t afford (to buy and own) a nice, well kept and maintained ************* , you definitely can’t afford one that isn’t”, especially when it comes to higher end makes & models. And even if an example what could be considered “very nice” is found, hiring a professional PPI by someone intimately familiar with the make & model will be money very well spent, regardless of outcome. After all, 450 SL’s are now over 40 years old. Look for the condition & maintenance records, especially everything electrical & mechanical related, not the price If no comprehensive records exist, walk away.

These types of centerplane ("Total Contact") brakes with 11" x 2" shoes were used in '56-'62 Dodge & Plymouth passenger cars (Chrysler, DeSoto & Imperial used bigger, 12" drums, backing plates & shoes). Be aware that there were 3-4 "evolutions" (or updates) throughout those years and each "evolution" requires a use of some matching components, like backing plate, shoes, return springs must be from same "evolution" to get them to work correctly. For example, while they may look very similar, '56 backing plate or shoes will not work properly with their counterparts from '58 or '62, etc. The design details & features of the backing plate and the shoes seem to suggest a '60-'62, at least to me. P.S. In the last photo of the first post you can see the plug for the gear oil filling port on the differential case and about two inches straight below it is a slightly raised rectangular, flat "pad" intended for the stamping of the gear ratio at the factory. In addition to gear ratio, let's say "3.31" or "3.54", etc and although very unlikely, there might also be a stamped "S" on it, which would indicate a "Sure-Grip", a.k.a. Limited Slip friction setup.

WT* ? You guys still harping about this nonsense? What does this has to do with antique cars, other than I can imagine 100+ years ago when some of ours were still in daily use, new or not even thought of yet and all the old curmudgeons still wanting to rely on their trusted horse drawn carriages, getting together at a town hall (or perhaps it was in the home of the village idiot ?) accusing all motorized vehicles bringing apocalyptic destruction to the world with all the pollution they create. Some of those curmudgeons probably wanted to send “text messages” to their supposed representatives at various government offices. And did it work or did they just wasted their time and ink ?

It's been over 20 years, but I remember rebuilding/restoring these type of flipper seal setups & their respective quarter window channels on couple of mid-50's Chrysler 300's & an Imperial. All involved a complete refurbishment, including replacement of felt strips, hinge pins & springs (which I formed/modified from some other similar, but non-automotive springs), straightening & polishing of the stainless strips, etc... ... all ended up working great with precise movements & no rattles. A lot of hours, but that's what restoration of anything requires. Good luck with your project.

I can't help but wonder if this was the character who "balanced" the rods in that Model J engine mentioned in another thread ? I feel sorry for the poor Franklin and any other old car treated like this one.

Maybe a little, but unfortunately not too much off from reality I see every day.

Yes, my wife, now a retired High School science teacher, told me years ago (when she was still working) that some 8th or higher grade students, while staring at an analog clock on the hallway wall, would ask her what time it is showing.

Where I grew up and got my DL, use of hand signals while driving a car or a truck was illegal/prohibited (OK for left turn on motorcycles, IIRC), but I quickly adapted to using them after I moved to U.S. about 40 years ago and still use them every time when out in my PB Roadster or any other vintage car that doesn't have built in turn signals. OTOH, I always drive defensively and mindful of the fact that 90+% of other road users (at least where I've driven/traveled in cars/trucks in past few decades) do not know how to drive, don't understand traffic and shouldn't have the privilege to operate a motor vehicle on public roads in the first place.

Are you sure THAT was done for balancing and not something even stupider ? Regardless of what or why, whenever* I encounter/see something like this I would like to see the individual(s) who did this, tied to a pillory and have each & every one of their fingers cut off (slowly with tin snips ?) from the knuckles so they would never be able to abuse another (vintage) automobile again. *Unfortunately often in this hobby & profession.