pmhowe

It's sad to see that. Once, that was a handsome, proud car,

"...what's next?" Cadmium and lead in your chocolate! https://www.consumerreports.org/health/food-safety/lead-and-cadmium-in-dark-chocolate-a8480295550/

Removed the generator from the car to examine it further. I then learned that the bearing at the driven end of the generator was bad - the shaft was loose and the bearing balls did not allow for smooth shaft rotation. I was also surprised and disappointed in the amount of material that has been removed the commutator by various people over the years (see Picture). Today's project is to build a box in which to ship the generator off to a rebuilder. Then it is back to other parts of the electrical system.

Let's raise the bar a little: You're not a real driver unless you can float the gears with your pre-synchromesh transmission... ... Of course, I am not a real driver as I can't do it, and I have been afraid to try to learn with my cars. Phil

It looks like I have a bigger problem than I thought: I took a more careful look at the cutoff/regulator. The points of the cutoff are fused together. The points on the other section seem to be not badly worn, but their alignment is awful. It is irrelevant, because I am going to toss this unit, but I would think that adjusting those points for better contact would totally alter the calibration. I then removed the generator cover, and found solder splattered about.

Tom, Thanks for the correction. I had it right in the text, but mis-typed it in the title. I will edit the title Phil

This car was shown today at a car show in Vero Beach, FL. It is a 1939 Cadillac, with division window. Full leather seats, front and back. The folks in back would ride in style. The car was one of the few pre-WW2 un-modified cars at the show, and was in very nice condition. Phil

I attended a car show today in Vero Beach, FL. Saw this truck there and thought of you folks. It is a very nice Graham Brothers truck. Phil

I am the proud owner of a new (to me) Series 526 Packard coupe (1928). The car was obviously cherished by the former owner, but it appears to have sat for quite a while and needs sorting. I am slowly doing that. My current problem is that the generator is not charging the battery. Thus, after starting the engine, the ammeter remains slightly negative as a result of the draw by the ignition circuit. This is independent of engine RPMs. The ammeter is sensitive to the electrical accessories, so it is definitely working. When the car is run for short periods - of the order of fifteen minutes or so, the generator shows no evidence of getting hot. The generator is an Owen - Dyneto model 800 three brush generator with what appears to be a two stage cutoff and voltage regulator. I would appreciate some guidance as how to proceed. Thanks, Phil

That is one perspective. Another perspective is that it is the journey, not the destination, that is important. There's room for both perspectives. I think which one is important is situation and time dependent. That has certainly been the case for me. When I look at pictures of the cars that Ed and colleagues are often discussing, I tend to slip into the "enjoy looking at them" mode, as I will never own one or drive one. I still enjoy them. Mine, that slip towards the other end of the value scale, I still love to look at and cherish, and but love to drive as well. Phil

Many years ago, I had a '29 Pierce. The oil gauge needle fluttered like crazy. An old-timer told me to use a longer connecting tube and put a coil in it. I did, and it cured the fluctuations. Phil

I'm sorry you haven't gotten any replies from knowledgeable people. They must be very busy. I don't have a '29, but I have a '28 and yours should be the same. Look at the base of the radiator on the driver's side. There should be a neck extension to capture the lower radiator hose. At the base of the neck there should be a drain petcock. I have attached a picture of mine. (My car is new to me; I was appalled at the corrosion on the petcock when I saw it - it has been fixed.) Hope this helps. Bye the way, your's is a handsome car. I'll bet you will enjoy it immensely. Phil

What is the purpose of the spring? To dampen brake squeal?

My 1928 Packard 526 has Hotchkiss drive, I suspect all of the mid 'twenties on did, and maybe those earlier.

I think the link is fixed.

This seems like an awfully good car for the price. I love the looks of these old Cadillacs. Asking price is $34,800.00 which seems very reasonable. https://classicpromenade.com/for-sale/1930-cadillac-series-353-v8-sedan/

Three good friends enjoying dinner. I forgot to include the car connection when I first posted this. Two of the three animals loved car rides. When the dog was older, he had arthritis very badly and had difficulty walking, so I would take him for car rides early in the morning. The skunk loved to ride, also. The dog would sit beside me and the skunk would sit on my shoulder and pretend she was an eagle. Every morning, the two of them would be waiting by the door for their car ride.

I’m looking for the chrome part that covers the crank hole in the lower part of the radiator shell for a1928 Packard 526. The car presently has (I think) a cheap J. C. Whitney gas tank cap.Doesn’t look bad, but well… it does still look like a cheap gas tank cap.

Every time I visit these forums I come away pleased and surprised, having learned something new. Over the last few days, I have been mulling over the idea of doing a search/starting a new thread regarding the best friction materials to be used on pre-war car brakes. This morning I visited the thread “A text message while sorting a car…” and found Ed’s fascinating discussion of redoing the brakes on the 1934 Buick. Next time, I will probably do my own brake relining. This is just one example of the many reasons I like this site. Phil

It's that cool, looking from the front. PMH

Other cars had engines mounted low. From an engineering perspective, I think it makes sense to mount the engine low. As a teenager, I was lucky enough to buy a 1929 Pierce Arrow for $150, which I loved. However, I was totally unimpressed with the view of the engine, which seemed to me lost in a huge engine compartment. Below is a picture of a 1929 Pierce engine (not mine) and, for comparison, a 1929 Stutz engine. Phil

I think I would try something like Meguiars' polishing compound. I'd try it first on a spot where it is covered by an instrument or is otherwise hidden. Just be careful not to rub through the paint. Phil

1935Packard's suggestion is a great one. Ed, please give someone permission to videotape your talk and post it on the forum. Someone, please videotape it. I'm sure many who cannot attend (including me) will greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Phil

In another thread, the comment is made: "The current reproduction tire/tubes seem to made below yesterdays standard. Don't be surprised if the whitewalls turn yellow and the new tubes leak 1 lb a week. Just Sayin." I'm going to need to replace the tires on my car soon. My knee-jerk reaction is that it makes little sense not to replace the old tubes with new ones at the same time. However, the old tubes won't have seen any UV light and may be in good condition - at least much better condition than the tires - even though old. The comment above seems like good reason to stick with the old, if the old appear to be in good condition and aren't leaking. What are people's experience and recommendations? Thanks, Phil

I think that the five passenger sedans with blind rear quarters of the 'twenties and 'thirties were particularly good looking. They went by different names - club sedans, town sedans, landau sedans, club Berline, etc. Here are some pictures, gleaned from the web. The first is a Hudson Super Six, with a Murphy body, their "Landau Sedan". The second is a 1929 Cadillac Club Sedan. The third is a 1929 Pierce "Club Berline". The fourth is a 1932 Marmon Club sedan.