Bloo

Well... The good news is your keyways are nice and tight.

I just want to clarify that when I half-heartedly suggested Indian Head, I was referring to flange gaskets and heat shields and so on, and then only if the surfaces or the gaskets are questionable. I did NOT mean the gaskets in the carburetor itself. Those are ALWAYS dry. If they wont seal dry, straighten whatever is warped!

Indian head (but not if you ever want to get the gaskets back off). It works great on intakes, but use sparingly and don't dribble or squirt any on the inside. Frankly I am disinclined to use it on intakes anymore now that there's a bunch of alcohol in the gas. You don't want it winding up on the valvestems causing the valves to stick. I would probably use new gaskets and put them on dry.

Always leave a window open a crack on a car stored outside, covered or not. If the passenger compartment can't breathe it will start behaving like a terrarium, and you will have a bunch of mold, mildew, and possibly other plant life growing in there.

Amen to that. I remember when those portable garages came out, a friend got one. He had it tied down real well with concrete filled tires, blocks, etc. I thought it was the neatest thing I ever saw. A week later I was helping him pick it out of a neighbor's tree.

Modern cars have plastic parts between the leaves and do not need or want lubrication. Unlubricated springs with no such devices between the leaves will grind thin spots where one leaf contacts another, reducing the thickness, and thus the rate of the spring over time. My Pontiac has zinc spring gaiters, and I squirt old fashioned graphite-based spring grease up there just like the shop manual says to do. Will they fail quicker due to the galvanic corrosion Spinneyhill mentions than if I just let the leaves grind on each other? I don't know. I do know what happens when the leaves are left to just grind, and it isn't pretty. A much better answer is to have some sort of liners of teflon or plastic in between the leaves to prevent the grinding.

Not enough miles to call it broken IMHO. Drive it a while. See what happens.

It won't matter that it is a 12v breaker. Current is current. Breakers like the first one (and probably the second) are thermal, and have to be a bit lossy to generate the heat to trip. If it were me I would use a fuse or fuselink. It should result in a bit more brightness at the headlights. To guess whether it will trip, you have to add all the current requirements (Amps) of everything that will be on. That can be hard to figure out ahead of time, as bulbs used to be rated in Candlepower rather than Watts (Watts = Volts x Amps). You could measure by inserting an ammeter in series with the breaker (so that all the current that flows through the breaker has to flow through the ammeter), and turning everything on. If I remember correctly you should load a breaker to 80 percent or less. Buick did use thermal breakers on later 6 volt models.

I believe if the old r12 oil is still distributed through the system, it has a tendency to plug the pores of the hose and keep the r134 from leaking out. Since I believe TexRiv_63 mentioned a seized compressor, that is unlikely to be the case. The system will probably need to be thoroughly flushed.

I like the visor. Whitewalls too! I tend to prefer blackwalls on prewar cars (with some exceptions), but this is 1950! It is also a top of the line Nash.

As an old c-body nut from long ago... I hated a/c cars. The compressor or the lines are always in the way of something you want to do. It's heavy, and has to have 2 matching belts cut from the same tube. Parts stores never seemed to have that. I would be extremely tempted by a Sanden compressor if there were some way to mount it down low and to the side, out of the way. If it is going to be up front and center like stock, I would stick with the stock compressor. It looks right. They were dead reliable. You basically never saw any bad ones (unlike the compressors used on some other makes in those days). A/C problems on Mopars were almost always leaks (o-rings, rocks knocking holes in the condenser, etc.). My experience with these mostly predates r134a, so perhaps others can comment about that, but I strongly suspect something was done improperly in the conversion and it ran with insufficient or incorrect oil. Nice car!

These don't get any respect. It makes no sense to me. They are great cars. Mine was a 51 Statesman (600). I daily drove it in the 80s, mostly in the winter (no salt here). I thought It would just get stuck everywhere because of those enclosed fenders, and you did need to be a bit careful about that, but these cars go like crazy in the snow. The heater, as Rusty mentioned, is incredible. It was a very reliable car. It always started easily in the bitter cold, but since it was 6 volts I could no longer give my friends (who couldn't be bothered to keep their battery terminals clean) jump starts anymore. After a while I started carrying a 12 volt battery in the trunk..... I was the second owner of my Nash. I thought that was remarkable when I first got it, but as it turns out, one-owner Nashes were fairly common at that time. These cars tend to stay in the same family for decades. People who have owned one know how great they are, and it seems no one else does. The only downside I can think of is that they don't have a very tight turning circle because of the encclosed fenders. It drew comments everywhere, but not the "What is it?" I get with my Pontiac today. EVERYONE had a Nash story to tell, and some good memories to share. I predict you will have a lot of fun with this.

This is a unibody. Have a good look at the front floorboards. Crawl under and look at that same area underneath. The frame "rail" (sheetmetal) runs right through there. When the seals leak, water drips right on it. If you jack it up, do so only by the axles, no other way (unless you know exactly what you are doing). The unibody structure is easy to damage.

Radial if you intend to drive it much, or plan any long distance touring. Bias might look better.

IMHO split the difference.

I cant find anyone who will rivet it. Are you aware of anyone?

Gary, Thanks! These nuts are rated for tension, it is just the bolts that aren't. If I am safe at 330 Inch Pounds then thats what I will use. The load is nearly all shear, although i'll take any clamping force can get. Loosening would be bad, but something breaking and falling off in there would be really bad. They will be lubricated with Loctite.

Two threads THROUGH the nut, sticking out the top, one thread below so the threads don't bottom. I just went back and edited that because it was ambiguous.

Hi Gary, I was on Coastfab the other day. Is that 330 in/lb figure going to be OK with the thin-headed shear bolts? Or will it have to be less because of the thin heads? I couldn't seem to sort that part out when i was poking around over there. I was also wondering if that "torque test" value was normal torque, or absolute maximum before failure? Thanks!

Yeah, and the aircraft stuff I could find (not my exact stuff) was less than half that for tension, and even less for shear bolts. I would have expected it to be similar to grade 8.

I have some close tolerance aircraft bolts here to bolt my rear axle ring gear on, for the 1936 Pontiac. The bolts are NAS6605-14 (5/16-24 threads, Thread class 3a, 160,000psi, cad plated). The nuts I have are MS21042-5 stop nuts (5/16-24 threads, thread class 3b, 160000psi, cad plated, style B flange, jet nuts). These will bolt a hardened ring gear to a cast iron or maybe nodular iron differential case, with a washer under the nut. Loading is primarily in shear. I cannot find anything online that addresses this combination. Apparently thinner nuts are generally used with these bolts, due to the short thread length. If I have measured correctly, I will have one thread down the hole (mostly in the washer), and two threads sticking out the top of the nut. Isn't that about perfect? I have 2 different thicknesses of washers here (AN960-516 and AN960-516L) in case there is a little variation in the thickness of the parts. How tight should this combination be?

You might have to.....

Squeak......

Maybe the lift is specified at the valve and you need to multiply by the rocker ratio?