Bloo

Not exactly on the pinion. The closest bolt to the ground is what you want. Try at the bottom of the rear pan if it's removable. Based on @Ben Bruce aka First Born's comment I suspect it isn't. In that case, try one of the bolts holding the whole differential carrier to the axle housing. Pick the one closest to the ground. Draining this way is going to be really slow. It can't be helped. In my opinion, any modern quality brand GL-5 hypoid gear oil should be fine.

The linked images have this as "Automoblie Radio Corporation". I don't see NY, though I am probably missing something. The manufacturer needs close scrutiny here, as "Transitone" radios were made by Simplex of Sandusky, Ohio by the mid 1930s, and I suspect earlier, probably from the beginning. Could Automobile Radio Corporation have been Simplex? Simplex was absorbed by Philco (of Philadelphia, PA) in the late 1930s. Philco took over Simplex's Sandusky factory, and continued using the Transitone name on some models. These were not typically car radios. Any attribution of the Transitone name to Philco you find prior to the late 1930s is almost certainly wrong. EDIT: maybe not..... I assume you've seen this: https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/first_car_radios_history_and_development_of_early_car_radios.html Sorry, I don't have any primary sources to link.

It is my understanding that Type F was only necessary with the linings used in Fords at that time. If you replace all, then I think you would be fine with DexronII / III / Mercon type fluid. You will not find it labeled that way anymore thanks to testing standards that no longer exist. You'll have to read the small print on the back to find which fluid is for "vehicles that originally called for Dexron II/III" or something like that. Fords with Green Dot / White Dot shift quadrants have the default stop at the green dot. The green dot is at the same spot second is in a newer transmission. It is probably going to shift itself into second every time you go over a big bump, especially if it is a column shift. I'd at least get the right valve body to match the shifter, or better yet a whole earlier transmission.

Replace all the seals and rings, inspect the linings and check for endplay! "Kits" rarely get the job done. Believe the shop manual (and don't do it without one). Dumping "all new parts" in rarely gets it right, and a "kit" will probably contain a bunch of stuff you don't need, but still leave you needing some selective thickness parts that weren't in the kit and will need to be bought separately. Get the end clearances in your clutch packs right! That often takes selective parts. End play for the whole transmission matters too. Also be sure to get any bands set correctly. You might have to buy a tiny torque wrench or two, pay close attention to the range(s) needed. "Good enough" tools like this are available economically these days on Amazon. I don't remember exactly what is needed for C4 (too long ago for me), but what you see in ths post won't be too far off. In this case, you may want to replace all the linings (clutches and bands) because it is a 60s Ford, and the lining materials used then required Type F fluid to work properly. Some of the old parts will be like new. Your call. Dust and crud is your enemy. Tiny pieces of lint can ruin your rebuild. NO SHOP RAGS OR PAPER TOWELS OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT. Parts should be washed in solvent, blown dry, dunked in clean transmission fluid, and put in. Dust must be kept under control. I have done this in service station buildings by shutting all the doors, cleaning the bench meticulously and wetting down the concrete floor. That is almost good enough. Serious automatic transmission shops have a build room. There are a lot of variations of C4 based on year and original application. If you are going to order a "kit", you may have to guess. It won't have all of the right parts anyway. The first 2 letters of a Ford part number or engineering number will be the first year the part or casting was used. C=6, D=7, so if you are seeing a bunch of numbers on or in it starting with C4xx (1964) or C5xx (1965), probably your original application is a good guess. If you are seeing a bunch of D6xx (1976) or whatever you might need to make a very different guess. EDIT: just re-read @kgreen's post and he reminded me of the snap ring pliers. You will probably have to buy some. In automatic transmissions there are the snap rings you expect with holes in the ends, and there are also ones that are just pointy and engage a hole or divot in the side of a very stout snap ring pliers. You'll probably just have to see what is needed as you go. There are also places where you need to compress a spring and hold it while you remove or install a snap ring. I have a purpose made press for that, but I imagine you will need to just make something from random hardware store stuff. That's what I did before I had the special press. Good luck!

More research necessary. There were SO MANY different Hupmobile models around that time, even as a part time Hupp enthusiast I can't keep track of them all. Frankly it won't surprise me at all if it turns out this is one of four extant. When was the last time you saw one for sale? The last time I saw one for sale, it was this same car, white wheels, missing grille and everything. I don't recognize the model number. Should be 3 digits. N-621 maybe? EDIT: From the Hupmobile club website, a snippet covering the period between the introduction of the aerodynamic models and the introduction of the Skylark: "The following year, 1933, only five series were available: B-316 (six), K-321 (six), KK-321A (six), F-322 (eight) and I-326 (eight). In 1934 some models were still available and new models introduced. The new designations were W-417, J-421 (both six-cylinder engines), while T-427 was an eight-cylinder. The Series W, J and T were Hupmobile's entry into the aerodynamic body styles. The year is now 1935; two more aerodynamic body styles are introduced: D-518 (6) and O-521 (8), available in a sedan, coupe or Victoria models. Models K, KK, F and I were discontinued. In 1936, Models D-618, G-618 (6), N-621 (8) and O-621 (8) were available in sedans or business coupes. Models G and N were new models for this year. Late in 1936, and during 1937, Hupp Motor Car Co had a labor dispute with its employees and virtually no automobiles were produced for 1937. However, some 1936 Model G and Model N cars were assembled, to use up parts, and sold as 1937 models. With the end of the labor dispute in late 1937, Hupp reentered automobile manufacturing with two new models for 1938, the E-822 (6), ES-822 (6) and H-825 (8), available in deluxe or standard sedans. The E, ES and H were continued into 1939 along with the introduction of the Model R-915 (6), also known as the Skylark." There is at least one model in that list for which NO survivors are known.

If the shape/height has changed on any lobes, you'd better fix it. If the bottoms of any lifters are clobbered I wouldn't trust any of it. The lifters must spin in operation. Usually that is accomplished with a slightly convex (protruding) face on the lifter, and a slight tilt on the surface of the cam lobe. If a lifter does not spin, the cam lobe won't be around too long.

I would lightly. Less is more. Only knock down crud or anything that could stick above the main surface. Don't try to remove pits if you find some.

I was the guy @Jolly_John mentioned who had lifters reground recently. I used Delta Cams of Tacoma, WA. They have been doing custom cam regrinds for enthusiasts up here in the Pacific Northwest for longer than I can remember. Always excellent work. The Original poster in that thread sent his lifters to Oregon Cam, who I understand are now in Vancouver, WA not far from the Oregon border. They also have an excellent reputation going back decades, but I have no recent experience with them. None of that does you much good if it needs to be close to York/Hershey, but that's what happened in the thread @Jolly_John mentioned. If you are thinking of having a 320 cam reground anywhere, I suggest calling ahead, and knowing what the total length of a 320 cam is when you do. I believe some cam grinding equipment cannot handle the length of a 320 cam, so maybe not every cam grinding shop could do it? A friend of mine had a 320 cam ground not too long ago. His went to Texas, and it may have been because of the length. He didn't send it, the machinist did, so this is all third hand information and I don't know which shop. Terrill Machine would be a good guess, but it is only a guess.

Duco means Lacquer (Dupont brand). Dulux is Alkyd Enamel from the same period. I believe the bodies were all Ducoed and if you sprung for Duco on the fenders that got you fenders the same color as the body. If you took the default enamel, I believe you probably got black fenders. I could be wrong, and it isn't really clear from the chart. Looks like Perugia Blue is the darkest blue on the chart. Maybe that is what you have?

It sounds very likely that 50-54 .030 is exactly what you have. 3-3/8" = 3.375 + .030 = 3.405 . Of course you would have to go by actual measurements of pistons and block to be sure. 3-3/8" was also used in the 1935-36 flathead sixes.

Where is this?

In the 40s Chevrolet had a setup that swapped the polarity on the points to even out point wear. That would require the breaker plate to float, and it may be what you are looking at. The system wasn't highly regarded and is often found disabled and the distributor wired for conventional operation.

When you hear the word "circuit" think "circle". There is nothing magic about a ground. The word "return" is occasionally used in electronics, and it makes a little more sense. The electrical current has to get back to whatever provided it, in this case the battery. If the current came from the battery, the only "ground" that does any good is the one on the battery itself. Think of the body or frame as a piece of wire leading back to the battery "ground" post. If you disconnect one post, the battery cannot do anything. It doesn't matter so much which one. "Always disconnect the negative first" is from more recent times and assumes a negative ground car. There is a reason. As you are disconnecting the battery you are surrounded by metal parts that are "grounded" to the battery. If you are on the positive post with your wrench, and you slip, you'll get sparks, maybe fire, explosion, etc. If you are on the negative post with the wrench (still talking about a negative ground car), nothing will happen. Then when you disconnect the positive, the battery cannot do anything, because it already has it's other post disconnected. You would have to get your wrench between the posts to cause a spark.

The catch is that they apparently can't call it Dexron II or III anymore because the standard is deprecated. You'll have to read the small print on the back of the bottle to see which one it is.

It's a good looking color.

I have no idea, but it was well established by the 70s and I wouldn't really know before that.

Wow.

Well first of all its crazy. With that out of the way, it refers to World War 2, because World War 2 bumped World War 1 as the big one in everybody's recent memory. The term "postwar" comes right along with it, and stuff like "postwar baby boom", "postwar car", etc. Lastly, the term is entirely US-centric, as the period ends in December 1941, when the US entered the war. Never mind that the war had been going a while. This applies to everything no matter where built, for instance a 1941 Canadian car would still be prewar, even though Canada had been in the war since what... 1939? One would think 1942 would get lumped in with prewar because they are not that different and there are so few. Also a few, perhaps most of them would have got out off the gate before December 1941. Nope. They aren't prewar. They aren't postwar either. I'm not defending any of this, nor will I attempt to claim it makes any sense, but that's how it is.

That's mostly been debunked I believe. Also it wasn't Studebaker, it was Nash/AMC. As it turns out the Nash V8 didn't resemble the K/F design that much, or so I've been told. The Nash design was done so quickly after their deal with Packard soured, and turned out so well, that it was assumed there had been some cut-and-paste. Same designer though. The Studebaker V8 had some cross-pollination with Oldsmobile and Cadillac, and there is a lot of resemblance to the Kettering designs. It hit the market in 1951.

No. The battery would try to charge the generator or charger. Current will flow from the highest voltage source. I think you may be approaching this wrong. Volts, Amps, and Ohms are inexorably tied by Ohms law. It is a natural law you can't change. As a result of this, pushing 20 amps at 4 volts into a 6 volt battery is literally impossible if the battery has any charge in it at all. The thing about Ohms Law is is that if you know two of the three at any one device (like a hot running headlight bulb for instance), you can just calculate the third. Volts=Amps x Ohms. If you change one, the others have to follow. You can't get around it. If I lower the Volts at a hot headlight bulb, the Ohms wont change very much as long as the filament stays hot, so the current (Amps) has to go down when I lower the voltage. Charging a battery is a funny thing though. In a car, with a sophisticated charging system like a 2-brush generator with a 3 unit regulator, or an alternator, the strategy is to have more current available from the charging system than you will use. Current only flows on demand. Demand made by lowered resistance in devices. If you have a charging system that can provide 50 amps, and the ignition and lights (or whatever) that you have running draw a total of 10 amps, that leaves 40 amps available to charge the battery. The battery won't ask for all 40 or anything near that. Back to charging the battery. If you regulate the system to a specific "magic" voltage, usually 7.5-ish at room temperature in a 6 volt car, a dead battery will draw very little at first, more as it gets charged. If this "system voltage" is what it should be, the battery will self regulate and stay fully charged. If the system voltage is too high, the battery will always be somewhat overcharged. if it is too low, always undercharged. Tenths of a volt matter. Once full the battery will draw very little current, and can be fine at 7.5V all day long. Well almost. I guess if you drive all day the voltage might rise a little bit above expected. Some cars have an extra contact point in the voltage regulator relay to shut the system off intermittently if this happens. Most others ignore it. So... back to your Hudson. You do have separate control for both voltage (the regulator) and current (the third brush), but you can't use and set them that way because you can't fool mother nature. Current to power accessories is drawn off first from the generator, and whatever is left is available to charge the battery, but only if the battery asks by drawing current. How much is up to the battery. If the total load of accessories, plus what the battery wants to recharge itself exceeds what the generator can put out, the voltage drops. Unchecked, it will drop from about 7.5 to about 6.3. The thing is though, when the voltage drops below 7.5, the voltage regulator relay should react. It is just a relay that opens points at 7.5 volts. It seems to be regulating at 7.5 volts when there is hardly any load. When it drops below 7.5 volts, the voltage regulator points close. That shorts the field terminal on the generator to ground. Why cant it do that? When you did that, it charged like crazy. The most likely thing in my opinion is when voltage falls below 7.5, and those points close and ground the field wire to the regulator frame, the regulator frame must not be grounded to the generator frame. Otherwise it would have the same effect you got by grounding the field. Then the voltage should go too high like you saw (8+ volts?), which would close the points, raising the voltage, opening the points again, etc. The relay probably buzzes and since the battery itself reacts much slower than this buzzing relay, the system stays at a stable 7.5 volts.

Canada-only version, isn't it?

How many wires did your old regulator have? I hope three? GEN-ARM-FLD ? There should be two wires going to the generator from the regulator (plus a third for a ground if it has one, has that been addeed?). Big wire goes to "A" at generator end and "GEN" or "ARM" at regulator end. Small wire goes to "F" at generator end and "F" or "FLD" at regulator end. Big wire from main harness goes to "BAT" on regulator. If there is a small wire from the automatic start wiring, it also goes to "GEN" or "ARM" on the regulator. It probably won't start without. See if all that is ok. If you have to correct anything, re-polarize and try again. Yeah, I'd rather have a Delco regulator, and if Dave offers one I'd probably grab it, but Niehoff made high quality stuff. This regulator should work fine. Try grounding the "F" terminal on the generator with a jumper wire for a test. That should make it charge a lot. Don't leave it that way, it's too much, just test. If that doesn't make it charge, the generator may need inspection.

These amp readings are coming from a dash ammeter in the car? If so ignore them for now. Double check that the generator and regulator are grounded well and together. If one is grounded to the engine and the other is grounded to the body, verify the body and engine re well grounded together. Now about the car's ammeter... All accessories must be connected to the generator side of it. Lights, radio, heater, wipers if electric, whatever. It all goes on the generator side, NOT the battery side. An exception might be the horn. GM puts the horn on the wrong side, and i have a theory why, but that's not important right now. Hudson might have done the same, I don't know, but it only draws current when you honk so it wouldn't matter. Current drawn by anything that is on the wrong side of the ammeter will register as charge. It sounds like that might be happening. If so, it is an illusion. The ammeter in the dash should only show current in or out of the battery. That way when the system keeps up, or is at least gaining, it will register charge. When they system does not keep up, it will register discharge. Maybe. Probably. As long as there is enough current available to keep up, yes. It's third brush, so the available current will drop at higher speeds. That's true, but don't allow it to mislead you. It is precisely what happens when there is not enough current available. Yes. Probably not. It was at 7.47-7.49 unloaded, and that is *exactly* where I would expect it to be set, at least without a manual to look at. It won't be far from that. If it was set at 6.3 it never would have got there. In that case, there must be a resistor in the regulator from the field to ground. The opposite end of the field is powered by the third brush. The regulator points short out the resistor to kick the field on high and the generator into high charge, The regulator relay coil is powered by system voltage. when it gets to 7.5, the points open, the voltage drops, points close, voltage at 7.5, repeat, repeat, etc. It is probably designed to rattle fast or buzz so you notice it less in the headlights. Note that the "sense" point for system voltage is at the regulator, power and ground as it exists in the regulator. The ground that turns the field on is also at the regulator. I think you have stray resistance somewhere between the generator and the regulator. Probably in the ground(s). One unrelated thing, just in case you don't know. never run a third brush system with the battery disconnected. They burn the field up if you do.

Amps, but it is inexorably tied to voltage and resistance according to Ohms Law. Lots did it back in the 30s. It is a bit of a mind teaser but not that bad. In practice you were somewhat limited in how big the charging system could be. Not as limited as you are with third-brush-and-a-cutout, but still limited. Almost everyone who was still using this dropped it in 1940 when sealed beams were put on almost all new cars. They were a bit more wattage than the 2330/2331 bulbs that had been pretty common in the late 30s. If I remember correctly, Hudson had some hacks that allowed them to make the system a little bigger. I don't remember what they did. In 1950 it was decidedly old fashioned. As in any third brush generator. The difference occurs when there is a voltage regulator. On old third-brush-and-a-cutout cars, the rate had to be set low enough to not be boiling the battery all the time. Not true when there is a voltage regulator. The third brush is set in such a way to protect the generator from overcurrent damage. Unless Hudson says differently, it should be set for the maximum current that the generator can take without hurting itself. My 1936 Pontiac has a system like this, as do some late 30s Buicks, and the third brush is not movable. **Importnat note** Many third brush generators have a test current listed in the service manual that is for quick bench testing only, to prove function. If you see that, don't confuse it with what the generator can take all day long. On a system with a voltage regulator, current regulation, in this case done by third brush, is only there to protect the generator. A generator, unlike an alternator, will happily charge higher than designed until it melts. If Hudson left that brush adjustable after they added a voltage regulator, they have to have told you how to set it correctly. I would expect it to be a default value that you set on the bench while loaded and never change. Read carefully to make sure you are setting it to the value it is intended to run at, not a test setting only intended to prove bad/good generator. Unless it has been on fire or something, it can probably be cleaned and set up. How are you testing amps? I think that's too high, and anyway it is not tracking in a predictable way. Ignoring the amps measured, the voltage regulator setting sounds fine. We expect 7.4 volts on nice big systems, 7.5 volts on most cars, and and 7.6 volts on old systems that are tiny (like my Pontiac). There are exceptions. Always believe the manual. It sounds like the generator is not able to supply enough amps. It may need work, or if the third brush is adjustable, it may be too low. Those are the test specs, because they are at voltages higher than you would ever allow on a voltage regulated system. And now you get into the first screwball idiosyncrasy of third brush. If the voltage is allowed to rise above normal, the maximum available current will also rise. The second screwball idiosyncrasy of third brush, closely related to the first even though it isn't obvious, is that available current vs RPM runs in a bell curve. In other words, above idle the generator starts charging, but does not have full current available. as RPM rises, the available current rises until it gets to some magic RPM, and then it starts falling off as the RPM continues to rise. Remember the whole point of currrent regulation on a voltage regulated car is to prevent overcurrent damage to the generator, so the brush has to be set to limit at the highest point. That's the main reason everyone else abandoned third brush. If you use a 40 amp current regulator (pulling a random number out of the air) and a two brush generator, 40 amps is 40 amps, and all of it is available as long as the generator is turning fast enough to do it. Of course if it isn't turning fast enough, less is available. In a perfect world, a voltage regulated generator would behave exactly like an alternator, except for having less charge at idle. Post 1939, most of them do within reason, if not loaded up with a bunch of Trippe Lights or whatever. Assuming a fully charged battery (important), and engine running above idle, the system voltage is the voltage regulator voltage, and on most cars we expect about 7.5V at room temperature. The temperature matters if you are setting it. When the battery is charged and the system is keeping up with the current (Amps) demand, the voltage should remain about the same, 7.5 volts or so, with the voltage regulator happily buzzing away keeping it from rising. When current demand (Amps) by the ignition, lights, heater, radio, and whatever else exceeds the maximum current available, the battery suddenly becomes the source of current. The natural voltage of the battery is 6.3 volts. The system voltage will drop fairly suddenly to around 6.3 volts, and go down from there as the battery discharges. When some demand goes away, and the generator can keep up again, it should go back up fairly quickly, as it will on a modern car, or most post 1939 cars as long as they aren't loaded up with accessories. If the charging system is too small though, you might spend a lot of time with the voltage low. If there is only two amps of capability left over after lights and accessories to charge the battery (pulling numbers out of the air again), and it has to charge the battery with that, that is going to take a while just like a trickle charger would, but when the battery gets back to full charge you'll be back up to 7.5 volts or so. i'd like to know how you got those amp readings. They aren't making any sense to me. It would be interesting to know how much current the heater and the overdrive solenoid draw. The lights can probably be figured out online (6006 headlight bulbs?). My first reaction is that the generator output is low and the regulator is fine (once again ignoring the amp measurements). Unfortunately engine speed is going to affect how much current is available, so it is really hard to predict. EDIT: I can't help but wonder if your regulator or generator might not be grounded good.

I use Penrite steering box lube, which has a 00 consistency. It is available at restorationstuff.com in the USA, and probably off the shelf in Australia where it is made. It works well, and seems to stay in. Wow. I think I'm in love with that just because of the container. What a great idea!