neil morse

Hudsy, I was just typing a similar comment when you posted. The car is supposedly a high point AACA senior Grand National winner, but that gap jumps out of the photo like a sore thumb! Something ain't right. Also, the "listing has ended" on eBay.

Here's a photo that shows the seat frame in place with the front cushion removed.

The photo you have posted shows the back of the front seat, but you are asking about the bottom cushion of the front seat, so I'm having trouble understanding exactly what your question is. On my '41, the bottom cushion of the front seat is set down into the seat frame and not held in place by anything other than gravity. If you tug on the front edge of the bottom cushion, you can pull it up and out of the seat frame very easily. Then you have easy access to the bolts holding the seat frame onto the seat adjustment rails. As I said before, the '39 set up might be different.

I concur with your selections, Ken. Four '40's and a '41. The one in the top left corner looked at first like another Super sedan like the one that it's almost back-to-back with because it's got those blind quarters, but it's smaller and the trunk hinges are different. I think it's the A-body -- maybe a Chevy? As for your other suspect, it's a little hard to know how you're counting up from the bottom, but are you talking about the Sedanet? I think it's a '41 Pontiac. The back part of the trim on the rear fenders looked similar to the Buick, but the Pontiac had trim on the front fender as well, which you can just see a little bit of in the photo.

Dare I ask what "Face Rump" is? 😄

Haha -- I think it's also called, "Of course you can have your car, sir, that will just be about 45 minutes for me to get it out!"

Tan wall tires? I have never heard of them (and don't like the look of them either).

At least on my '41, the bottom cushion of the front seat is just held in place by gravity like the back seat. Once you pull the bottom cushion out of the frame, you can get access to the bolts that hold the seat rails in place on the floor. On the '41, there are four bolts on each side. I figure the '39 must be similar.

I made it out to an informal "Cars & Coffee" event this morning. Very heavily skewed towards hot rods and muscle cars, but I was able to find a few kindred souls.

Sounds like you hate the car so much you have to make up defects that aren't there! 😄 Pretty sure the roof is brown.

It was the matching "1941" front plates that fooled me. 😄 Great photo!

@valk You bought another one?

On my car, we used a similar idea to what Ken suggests. We had ramps in front and jack stands under the frame in front of the rear axle. We lifted the car high enough so the rear tires were just touching the floor, then used a come-along to roll the rear axle back on the tires just enough to get the torque tube out. You can push the torque tube up above the back of the transmission and more-or-less out of the way after you get it out.

Dude, at least tape that wire back up inside the trunk before you take the picture! Or maybe even secure the wire correctly so it doesn't hang down in the first place. I can never get over these ads where someone is asking for top dollar but doesn't even take the time to tidy up a few things before taking photos. But, yes, looks like a nice car.

Very cool. I think if you got the clock in the steering wheel, they put a compass in the center of the dash where the clock would normally go. I can't quite make it out from the photo of this car, but I think that's what it's got. Unfortunately, it looks like this car also has the not so desirable "someone hacksawed a hole in the dash to a fit in an 80's radio/tape deck" feature. 😝

That characteristic whine in first is completely normal for the reason you mention.

I hear you Chris -- especially since I live in a city where there's a stop sign at the end of nearly every block. In some local trips around the neighborhood I never get into third gear at all! It gets tedious, no doubt about it, and I freely admit that I've been known to "cheat" a bit and roll through a stop sign in second to avoid having to come to a full stop and go back to first. But I figure that's just the price we pay for the enjoyment of driving a vehicle from another era.

I am very happy driving my '41, and I frankly have never understood the kind of objections that are being voiced here about the standard 3-speed transmission with non-synchromesh first gear. The only reason to "mash it into first gear" is if you're in too much of a hurry, and if you're in a hurry, you shouldn't be driving a vintage car! My advice is either accept the fact that the car has to come to a full stop in order for you to shift into first gear or get a different car. It's not complicated to drive the car as originally intended, it just results in a more measured and leisurely trip, which is the whole point of driving a vintage automobile, as far as I'm concerned. The owner's manual for my car also says that you can start off in second gear on level ground, but doing so has a very labored feeling to me. (It also reminds me of the way my mother drove when I was a kid, which I hated!) I'm happier just using all the gears. As far as the problem with the wife, again I'm afraid that's a reason to get a different car, not a reason to try to modify the car you have.

I see you're getting no response so far. Do you have any other photos? They would be a great help in identifying the car.

Better fix that parking brake, Peter. 😄 As usual, your car looks outstanding!

Here's a photo of the wheel of @Gary W's '37. It looks close to the photo you posted, except for the different horn button set up, so you may be right. Maybe Gary can chime in here and help you out with the identification.

You basically have to detach everything holding the rear axle in place and pull it back to get the torque tube out of the back of the transmission before you can replace the seals on the torque ball. I had a link to a great procedural checklist that someone else had posted in the past, but when I tried to pull it up just now I got an error message. This might have something to do with the new reshuffling of the forums on this site. I will look for it. However, I DO have a link to my thread where I go through the replacement of the torque ball seals. (Click on the arrow in the top right hand corner.) I did it with the transmission out of the car, but you could do it without removing the transmission. However, since you have to pull the rear end back anyway, I think you might just find it easier to go ahead and pull the transmission so you can check the front and rear bearings while you're at it.

Mike, I think you'd be better off just using the 120 for your car. No one's going to notice except an expert. If you use a 110 and try to adapt the plastic insert from a 120, I don't think it's going to look good. Just my opinion.

Haha -- OK, that's what I get for going out on a limb. I just saw the long hood.