XframeFX

That image is of the rear seat for good reason. The front, well . . . . I noticed your battery is connected with the dome lights ON. With my console not installed yet and the open harness, my battery cable is off. I'm leaving all courtesy and dome lamp covers off until the console and seats are in. Installed a new lense in the rear console light and covered it with cardboard. You're ahead of me Matt!

Correct, I learned about the high nickel content when I got back into the project a few years ago. Another regret, it was all about unleaded fuel back then. " I wish I knew then what I know now". I looked up the receipt, March 1993 - 27 years ago! Among the items in the BOM is "8 each SB1562 Exhaust Seat Inserts". Small valves and the seats are not stellite! Googled it: SB1562-1 High-Chrome Premium Grade Material with 1-9/16" (1.562 Nominal O.D.) SB1562-1N Same as SB1562-1 except Star Series material. SB1562-1PM Same as SB1562-1 except Powdered Metal Material

Well, this about the interior. So yesterday I noticed an unused LED Shop-light in the corner of my cluttered domain. It fit perfectly between the Rivieras' Coat Hooks. Dome light on steroids! Notice the '63 pattern. Didn't splurge on new leather and I opted for the cheaper cardboard parcel shelf, now with regret.

Ah Ha! Thanks Matt! I have re-fitted the console so many times I've lost count.My new insulation is all in shreds now. I have managed to install the right side bracket after getting brutal with it. I twisted and bent it in a vise, elongated the holes the hard way and drilled a new hole in the lower dash. However, the left bracket is a no-go. This has me wondering if I'm missing another bracket. On Ebay there's a 4-bracket set for sale shown above on a white speckled background. It installs below the A/C vent and I've never seen this bracket before. As for the Glovebox, I patched it up with matching grey paneling from the trunk liner. The aftermarket repros don't have piping on the front edge, not exact enough to go to the trouble sending to Canada. Thanks Steelman, I knew there'd be someone out there with knowledge on this. So, those 2 screw holes in my red carpet had a bracket under the cardboard duct for securing the back in early production? The rough console that came with my early Riviera was not original and not all mounts in-place. I an installing a mid-year 1963 unit and scratching my head on that hole at the back. John B.

In my struggle with installing my '63 console, I did a search and found my own posting from back in June! I guess I gave up and moved on to other aspects of the Riviera project. Can anyone shed light on past experience in getting this beast to fit? Lots of internet images but no answers. Images 1 & 2 are the tri-angular brackets that are a real PIA. The upper part bolts directly to the Dashboard below the radio and A/C vent and will not engage with either of my consoles. I managed to line-up the extensively massaged passenger side bracket. But the only way to mount the console is to leave the driver's side bracket off of break off the tabs on the console. The 3rd image shows a bracket set for sale for the '63 Riviera. It shows a bracket I do not have and mounts below the A/C vent for the top mount of the 2 tri-angular brackets. A mid year production change? The last image isn't very clear but is regarding the single screw below the waterfall courtesy light at the console's back (green tape). THERE SHOULD BE A HOLE IN THE TOP OF THE HUMP? My awl has located 2 screws straddling the top of the hump (shown). Missing a bracket?

So, I have seen this Youtube clip before but because of this discussion watched it again with many replays: https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/07/24/watch-this-buick-nailhead-go-from-rusty-mess-to-a-v-8-blessed Entertaining but even the write-up doesn't come near to the details we encounter on our nailheads. They re-used the timing cover as the donor engine didn't come with one. This surprises me as the engine was badly corroded. At least 1 bolt needed torching to get the timing cover off. No mention of using a roller timing chain Used an Edelbrock AFB Clone Carb (what size?). Must have used an adapter to mount the original aircleaner. No Exhaust manifold gaskets installed as it should be. But, what is that copper coloured goop? No Exhaust valve inserts as it should be according to Centerville Auto Repair's 15 mistakes. There is discussion on this on the Hagerty site and they say the inserts would actually fall out. Before kids came along when my Riviera went into a 25 year sleep, I had my heads re-done with SS exhaust seat inserts. Oh no! When my Riviera is ready to run (and it did before I took it apart). I'll do a compression test. They cut off the torque converter. Hopefully it wasn't trashed. Switch-pitch torque converters are becoming scarce! They fitted the main bearings. Then re-fitted with studs in-place of bolts and upper main bearing shells with red? Hmm, I'm learning more but perplexed on why all this trouble without a Buick car in mind? John B.

I concur. Early '63s were all painted steel and later had chromed A-Pillar interior moldings. By 1965, I've noticed the side moldings chrome as well. I never stripped my moldings completely. Prepped them enough for a new finish. I then installed the chrome A-Pillar moldings on my early Riviera.

FYI to all those that still need to learn what I did just now. I removed my old cruddy glovebox without much care only to find out that the replacement doesn't fit! With the dashpad off, it's obvious the A/C Evap unit is in the way. i pulled the old one from the garbage and sure enough it;s not as deep! Re-installing the old one because I don't a replacement after all. Need an A/C Glovebox. John B.

Move the decimal point another digit to left for the Canadian Dollar. I hate cross border shopping, we have no buying power it seems. UPS not our friend. USPS - reasonable. Vendor quote: " Free shipping to the lower 48 with purchases over $100" - ya. right! I try to source locally. It turns out the friendly Cardone Warehouse people alerted me that of all the Cardone Warehouses in North America, Only in Edmonton they have the Nailhead AC Water Pump and Wiper Motor. Curious if they're going to re-stock now that I cleaned them out. Now trying to source the 'tight' roller timing chain set on this side of the border. I wonder what manufacturer it is? In the old days, didn't have Google, didn't need it. I simply visited the most competitive jobber store and purchased or ordered almost anything! John B.

This old link still works. It has common sense advise and I might have to refer to it when I replace those vent window gears and rubber on my '63. http://www.chip.com/buick/techtips/doorskin.html I'm using the same wedges today to clamp down on the console leatherette inlays with C-Clamps while the contact cement takes hold. John B.

Thanks all on my console duct. All these years I was unaware of the cardboard contraption. Thought the Console itself was what directed the flow to the rear vents. The console is becoming a project in itself. The crusty leatherette inlays restores nicely with cleaning and touching up the peeled-up corners with contact cement and clamping. No need to replace. John B.

I didn't notice this thread when I dealt with my Delco 980659 AM/FM Radio last winter. I previously had it repaired in the early '80s where I discovered the repair was "I just changed-out the core". I think I ended up with a '64 radio in my 1963 Riviera. Well, that radio failed after 30 minutes when I re-installed it after 30 years knowing about old capacitors when I turned it on. Replacing those old electrolytics brought it back to life but was awful especially FM! The distortion got worse after 30 minutes and it had a run-away DC bias that seemed like it was going to self destruct. I researched possible solutions. Aurora design products would've been the best solution. I would've taken that route if my radio remained dead. I also had a 1963 Buick Wonderbar and would do an Aurora Design conversion on that one since the days of AM is numbered. Wanting to keep my Riviera mostly original, I decided to 'Update' the original design. After building and trying mono amplifier kits (guitar amps), I installed a KEMO amplifier outside the radio cabinet next to the 12V Choke. I included a 3PDT toggle where the optional Fader control goes. This way, with the flip of a switch, I could compare the old amp with the new amplifier. Like Night and Day improvement! It turns out when the old amp's distortion got worse after 30 minutes, the original FM tuner got better! I installed an "Aux-In" 3.5 mm phone jack mounted next to the ashtray. The new amplifier allows use of a modern 4 ohm 6X9 3-Way Speaker. I popped the original C9 light bulb and soldered/epoxy in a 194 LED. The single spectrum light looks trick and is strong enough to see in daylight When I plug-in my cellphone to "Aux-In" with the toggle switched to the new amp (naturally), everything inside the original radio cabinet is bypassed except for the Volume control and LED dial light. The design is still crude. It could use a regulated PS instead of that Choke but I am totally pleased with the results. That one 6X9 in the back seat can really belt out the tunes. You wouldn't know it's Mono! As for preferring the engine's exhaust note over any car radio, I chose the Riviera years ago for it's styling and it's long list of options. Everythings' gotta work. Amplifier: https://www.parts-express.com/kemo-m033n-18-watt-universal-mono-amplifier-module--320-553

AAH, Section 11 page 26 of the "SHOP Manual" - the HVAC section. Thanks Jan. I looked in the "CHASSIS Manual" and as you all know, a chintzy 9 sections at the back is for 4700s. The Shop Manual shows the duct and shifter vaguely but no console. So, all 1st Gen Rivieras were built with a console duct. All I remember before marriage and kids when I 'freely' worked on my '63 and the parts car, neither had this contraption. I didn't know it existed. Thing is, as evident with broken tabs that engage (or, do not) with the dashboard, previous owners messed with the console. They probably struggled with trial & error on re-installation that they discovered they missed the duct but called it 'good' in frustration! Yes, don't really need it but this project has vexed OCD on me! It's a '65 duct in good shape and was part of a larger purchase for my ST-400 swap. It turns out, I don't need most of it. What I do need out of that LD Purchase is junk - except this duct. So, I'm using it, absolutely and unlike those tabs, fits like a glove. BTW, I've found mounting the '65 shifter inside a stripped '63 shifter 5/8" higher makes it work with the original console. It is still preliminary but, I wish I knew that before I bought that bundle for $$$. Now, apart my struggle with those tabs, I have 4 brackets sitting in the glovebox for 29 years and 3 holes on each side for 6. This does not include the single slanted vertical hole at the back in the waterfall below the courtesy light. The hump has 2 holes at this location. Think I'm missing a bracket. Front ashtray light is missing, just a cut wire with no clue how that worked. Still looking to resolve my missing chrome push-button on that junk '65 shifter I bought online. Hmm, maybe lower my expectations and move on. Thanks All, John B.

1963 Consoles, are they supposed to have the cardboard duct pictured? I don't remember from 25 years ago. I have one from a '65 Riviera (poor images I know). It fits even with the fat Dynaflow shifter but the hose for the drivers vent is partially blocked by the duct. Fitting the console is hap-hazard enough without the duct. All a tight fit. A forum search and chassis manual is of no help on this. Thanks, John B.

CA65RIV, correct on above. That combo Kickdown/switchpitch switch was put aside because the AFB clone doesn't have the correct bellcrank on the primary shaft. I bought a small AFB from a 300 cu in LeSabre just for the primary shaft with the correct bellcrank. I will swap into my '63 AFB or go for a bigger AFB clone like what you have if the primary shaft will fit. Tough to find a correct or donor carb! Also, you need the bracket for that switch and they are tough to find (Turbinator doesn't need his?) If you do find one, all you have to do is try to attach to the bellcrank of your AFB clone as Ed mentioned. The image I posted earlier in this thread with the red boot on the combo switch is a 2bbl 300 cu in '64 Skylark. I posted it to get an idea what the bellcrank should look like.

Ed, I've had many TH400s in previous rides and loved them all. Now with the switch-pitch feature in my upcoming Dynaflow swap, my expectations are even higher. Don't know why I ever considered an OD transmission for my Riviera. I sold that 700-R4 after I purchased a 12" Torque Converter for my '65 ST-400 core. I've heard transitioning from high pitch to low pitch or low to high hangs-up in certain scenarios, high torque?. It's oil pressure to high so maybe the design has difficulty returning to low or, the other way? Upper in image, 13" Lower in image, 12" and 25 lbs lighter John B.

I believe they are called "anchor nuts". I used 1 for the centre post of those pesky die-cast HVAC Levers in my '63. Bought it at Lowes and worked perfectly. Image shows the 'before", The pin was replaced with a bolt and anchor nut (under side) for a sturdier post. John B.

Wow, a '67 Skylark GS with the stars wars air cleaner and the last year for the switch-pitch. I wonder how that setup performs (400-4) compared to a heavier 1st Gen Riviera with a 401/ST400 w/switch pitch? Of course, there's still a couple of variables such as does it have the BOP ST400 switch-pitch or, an ST300 switch-pitch? And the final drive ratio would be a factor as well. Observations: Unlike earlier non GS Skylarks (image below), The Stator Idle switch is not on the dashpot but on the linkage as on '65 Rivieras. The 2-wire connector on the forward contacts of the combo switch (in the image) go to the Stator Idle Switch. The Combo kick-down/switch-pitch switch is shorter than the nailhead version. Image I have below shows a longer switch on a '64 300 cu in 2BBL Rochester because of a different bracket. Red boot, black boot. I haven't seen a pattern. encountered red boot on '64s. The black boot is more common. Combo switches are more common as I've seen them on V6s with a non switch-pitch ST300s where just the kick-down contacts are used. '64 Rivieras had just the 2-contact kick-down switch? Someone mentioned that Dashpots with the snap-action switch are still available as a jobber part? Image shows the switched dashpot. John B.

I have gathered a few of these recently in wrecking yards and doing a lot of learning on the switch-pitch setup. I have different lengths on this switch including a rotary version for Oldsmobiles. The switch in Bob's image is the longer nailhead switch and nailhead bracket for ST-400s or '66 to '66 ST-300s. a Stator idle switch (snap-action switch) completes the setup. The shop manuals I have don't go into detail on the wiring. Simple to figure out with the forward contacts tied into the Stator Idle switch. Checkout the "65 Switch Pitch Connection" thread that has a scan in the last post from the '65 Shop manual on this.

Thanks to you I have it now. Although,with all the dialogue on this, I already ascertained the micro-switch is not on the dashpot as it is for the ST-300. Also, an image from RivVrgn explains it as well. The micro-switch is called the "Idle Stator Switch" in your scan. Did not know that. John B.

It appears you're on top of the situation. Hopefully you'll find the problem licked after bleeding the circuit. One thing to note on power brake setups back in the '60s. They dropped the brake pedal down to the level of the accelerator pedal, There is very little travel because the push-rod is near the fulcrum. Manual brakes has the pushrod further from the fulcrum for more leverage/travel, a higher pedal. The power assist system relies heavily on the vacuum booster. Without vacuum, the pedal will be very hard with hardly any travel. Power front disc brakes of the '70s was similar, a dropped pedal with little travel. The valve in the vacuum booster, you mean the check-valve? Easy to test. John B.

"Small Progress is better than No progress". Stick with it! Didn't know I had OCD until I re-started my Riviera project. If I was hired-out to do this (Riviera project), I'd fire me. Restoration or, resto-mod or aftermarket? Which-ever is faster! Enough research, get-to-work! Procrastination helped with my last cataract replacement lense. I procrastinated 12 years to get the 2nd eye done. By then they not only had the base model but 2 more upgrades! I splurged for the middle model and now have 'mono-vision'. one eye for reading and the other near 20-20 for distance! John B.

Nothing's easy with this swap. Removed a LeSabre 340 cu. in. at the wreckers to get at a 13" switch-pitch torque converter and front pump from the BOP ST-400. Easy enough. Then found an Olds Jetaway with a seized 330. Made 3 trips to the self-serve wrecker in sub-zero temps to get it out, no torches allowed. Cost $25. I then took that 12" torque converter to a shop where they had a 12" ready-to-go! Received $75 core exchange after all that hard work! The 12" is also 25 lbs lighter - better throttle response! The Russ Martin Flexplate is dual pattern. Should be a big improvement over that 'Dynaslow'. One more detail. I wonder how the bead chain for the Electro-Cruise hooks-up on '65 Rivieras with that micro-switch in-the-way? Nice to know OEM setup before I improvise. However, too early for that. Still dealing with 2 bad '65 shifters. I snapped the push-rod on the seized unit, all junk.

Correct on smaller powertrains and also for the 2-speed ST-300. I'm assuming the car would launch in high pitch, switch to low pitch and stay there until approaching WOT where I think the kick-down setpoint is above that. RivVrgn PM'd excellent images to me of the linkage area of his '65 nailhead. I got it now. I simply did not have a '65 shop manual for reference. So no micro-switch on the dashpot but there is one at the back of the linkage. I'll go back to the wrecker here and remove one from a LeSabre 300 cu in just in-case I need it down the road. Not sure how that figures in the setup. I will have all parts shortly Enough details. On with the swap!

I found this thread (Nov 2017) where Bluesy66 has a '65 ST-400 in a '64 Riviera and questioning linkage arrangements. At least the '64 has the combination kickdown/switch-pitch with a harness for just the kickdown contacts. He is halfway there with the '64 setup. I'm replacing a Dynaflow with mechanical switch-pitch. Not so lucky. However, his image is for a '64 nailhead. Still looking for the same image for a '65 nailhead and wire harness schematic. If what you're saying Ed, it appears the '65 does have a dashpot with the micro-switch. So based on my assumption that the '64 ST-300 is the same, I'll start a search for a dashpot (have the switch) and build a wire harness according to my '64 manual in the ST-300 section. I modified a crimper for packard-56 connectors so it should look OEM. Only wish I had that stubborn bootie Joey (RivVrgn above) had to deal with!