XframeFX

Fiberboard for the whole floor? Would this make it oversize shipping? I used a left over sheet of Dynamat upside down under the liner for the floor. In my image, you can still see the stamping through the liner. The hump between the hinges has Dynamat applied normally. Maybe I can salvage my botched installation by binding the edges instead of my futile attempt to butt edges from each piece? Not expecting perfection, just a more professional look. Thanks!

I have this exact same issue except I do not feel it through the pedals. Not too concerned and I will get to it after addressing ticking time bombs to make my '63 Riviera reliable. But, getting worse, another ticking time bomb? Yesterday, took a crowbar to the front-end with wheels on the ground. No, not reaction rod bushes, my 1st assumption. No to engine and transmission mounts. No to upper control arm shaft. Steering gear, solid. Next, ball joints. New WSW tires scheduled for tomorrow. Will ask tire shop to inspect. Will report back what I find.

Bill, so the wheel well pieces were pre-cut and formed to the contours? I had to cut Vee slits to form the contour knowing full well those Vee slits would be unsightly. Also, a spot of contact cement saturated through. My 35 year old Liner was in a roll, not pre-cut. I goofed at the bottom of both wheel wells as well, Purchased a contour gauge for when/if I re-do. Awful:

Couldn't you have wrapped Lou's cardboard? Used contact cement? Using Brian's trunk image, I'm missing that hold-down clip and spring for the bumper jack. About as important as a cap for the opti-kleen bottle. Just a minor detail. Brian, you have 5 Skylark Wire Wheels? Do they require tubes? size 215/75-15 to fit on the shelf? Some debris on your paint? My wheel well covering was a disaster. Next time contact cement to 1-side only and apply immediately when still wet. Liner does not stretch over the contour. A trick?

I have the same sample or "had", LOL. Purging my house. Will post Riviera parts eventually. Lou has moved outside of SD. Those were the days when BCA was run out of there.

Original 1963 that I managed to revive by lathering In-N-Out with Armor All. But I did research a replacement a few years back. Suitable? Not sure.

I have yet to fully install mine purchased from L. Adzima in the late 80s!

Lots of post on G1 Trunks. Here's one: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/401496-trunk-liner-for-1963-riviera/#comment-2564400 Cutting to the chase, I believe Jenkins is what you want for the liner, not the cardboard: https://www.jenkins-interiors.com/ Still, no one has shared the trick to line the contours of the wheel well. I messed-up. Also, where to source the spring and clip for my 1963 bumper jack? TX.

Oops, still 10 hours (600 miles) and no major events for us there. I am 13 hours west of Winnipeg. I guess Minneapolis is more central. Everything is far. When I was younger, North America was smaller!

Yes, congratulations. Your Riv is awesome and those Turbine wheels - Killer. Thanks for posting all that eye candy at the event. Lucky you, living in the upper middle. You get easier access to events such as this one in Iowa, the middle middle, the central table of North America. So, the only other "easy" direction you haven't yet gone, NORTH! How about a 1st class event in Winnipeg Bill? Anyone?😄

Yes, have not seen you on this forum lately. All your other cars keep you busy! So, sorry with your departure. You do not need to own a Riviera to visit the forum. But, you can purchase a later model like a 1999 Silver Arrow as your daily driver if so inclined. It was interesting to follow your project. Hopefully the new Owner will frequent here. The ROA and this Forum complement each other. Excellent for the Riviera enthusiast Can you post one final image of your SOLD Riviera? Thanks for letting us know of you moving on. All-The-Best to you Dennis!😄

A little late but, I stumbled upon this while searching for something else. Some of my "BJ" ST400 research with the 18 tooth Drive Gear and 3.23 final drive. I imagine you would need a 40T Nylon Driven Gear. Your 3.07 final drive is highlighted in yellow, left Table, mine in right Table:

Seattle Image from Griot's Garage. Park Lights ON but not as impactful as 1963/64 lighting. A little more than a "Chirp"!

I'm not one to do this on concrete or asphalt. But, a new set of 225/70-15 WSWs from Asia are waiting at my local tire shop. Wanted to bring the Riviera not just the wheels so had to wait until back on-the-road. Now with new Timing chain, water pump, fuel pump and more tuning, nothing has changed except I can no longer "chirp" the tires in the Dynaflow's "Low". Pumped up rears to 35 PSI, still nothing. So torching the old rubber before mounting new is not going to happen. ST400 Swap? Yes. Automatic for me. DRLs come on with a micro-switch on the shifter. DRLs are not ON below because Shifter is in "Park":

Thanks John but its just a bottle cap. So minor, it never made my wish list. Tom T's Solution is more what I had in-mind. No plastic Cap though. Difficult to find a Metal Cap that I can spray Black.

In the early 90s I called for a wrecker to haul away a parts car I had stripped, except for the front bumper. Where am I going to keep all my parts? My thinking. The first thing the Operator did was to latch onto the GOOD Bumper and mangled it before my eyes. When I mentioned it, he replied: "where there's one there's more". This one (in the image) is about to get mangled.

Oldair.com have them made. They might have partners but. best to source from them. I find Oldair.com more helpful than vint@geair in that they support OE HVAC systems. They'll even rebuild my original A6 compressor to keep "BUICK" stamping on the case.

My '63 still had the glass bottle. Probably because awkward to remove with AC tubing hovering over it. What? That Bottle and the "Dent" in the1963 power brake vacuum accumulator are conversation pieces at open hood car meets. I have a repro Opti-Kleen label for it. However, I like Bill's "Kleer-View" Buick Label better. I am missing the Bottle Cap. I'm not fussy, recommend any replacement caps from consumer products? No online purchase for a simple cap.

Absolutely!

This one? https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/23-5905-actuator

I'm jealous!

I accidently wiped the calibration of my Speedo messing with that hairspring for Electro-Cruise. My needle nose pliers were magnetized. Keep magnets away! This Link helped me restore calibration of 60 MPH @ 1000 RPM CCW with my cordless drill in reverse. The magnetic bar rotor inside the copper cup needs to be saturated with a simple fixture, nothing more. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4100362-tech-tip-how-to-re-magnetize-a-speedometer.html Now, if I could only get the Speedo cable to co-operate at low speeds. I lubed and re-lubed, changed the core, kept ferrules on both ends loose, nothing. It still jumps with noise. Typical Riviera, have to address the same problem 3X. However, still not remedied.😞 Dakota Digital - LOL!

That's an idea! I have an early '63. Maybe I should sell my "other non running project" and purchase a running '99, the last of the last. A Silver Arrow?

If it helps, tie a string to the mini wrench.

Yes, Tom T. If not, do your Research! Consider No Core exchange, ridiculous shipping. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/saginaw-steering-boxes https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1904-we-test-four-different-ratio-saginaw-power-steering-boxes/ https://forums.aaca.org/topic/353094-quick-ratio-steering-box-for-my-63-riv/ Jim Shea PDF: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/AF-CarFastRatioGearBeingRevised15AP2012.pdf MY CHOICE TO SOURCE, CLOSE TO THE BORDER AND DEALER IN VANCOUVER (has 80mm piston): https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/18500 Other good Sources: Double T https://leepowersteering.com Enjoy browsing & screen time!