XframeFX

I think this has been answered, thank-you. "Normal" for full sized Buicks. Riviera is not full sized until maybe 2nd Generation. Interesting how I consider our 1st Gen Rivieras the same external dimensions as the new for 1964 A-Body Skylarks only heavier and more deluxe. In reality, 1st Gen. Riviera's are related to full size Buick but, being shorter, narrower and 400 lbs lighter as seen with the radiator support, aluminum brake drums, driveline and more. A Deluxe Top-Of-The-Line Buick! Cadillac LaSalle with 1963 Leather to boot!

Can't quite make them out being black. Need a close- as well. Are these your wheels?

Bob, that battery hold would be a rarity after 60 years. Similar to that wire and spring for Jack Storage. My hold-down is still usable if I had the correct 27F battery. The hold-down 90 degree edge pieces are slightly eaten away. Current battery is not tall enough and has potential move around being too small for the battery tray. Look around, maybe you can find a new replacement to modify. Then re-spray with Performix "Plasti Dip" So, what would those 2-Holes be for?

I truly believe I have had my head under the hood of my current Riviera in my 43 years with it than any other car! So, seeing Dean's -64 Riviera Battery Topper and cable clamps, there's that threaded hole on both sides of the radiator support. Quite possibly someone has asked this question before. It can't be for an option because Dean's Riviera is LOADED!

I believe other Buicks from 1964 - 65 had red. Although less common, they seem to age better than black boots which I have as part of the compound switch. Good Luck Kev.

WSW Tire purchase options in CANADA: Mike, there are major brands marketed in Canada such as Hankooks that produce WSW tires. But it seems all the major Tire franchises draw from the same source including online retailer 1010tire.com. Will not stock WSW "Trailer" Tires. However, the latter will bypass that source and import separately at a slight loss so I was told. 1010tire.com's price for a Hankook Kinergy WSW is $100/tire over a Hankook Kinergy BSW counterpart. For a little more, better go for Diamondbacks. There are small time dealers that will source Diamondbacks. Then there are independent and small chains such as "Canada Custom Auto Works" that source directly from tire manufacturers. I'll list four Tires with WSWs marketed in Canada and particulars: 1) GT Radial - No longer in business as of late 2022 2) Radar Tires - Forever out-of-stock on WSWs 3) Uniroyal.ca Tigerpaw AWP - Forever out-of-stock and might be the same situation as centrally sourced Hankooks. They are produced but Canadian warehouse won't stock WSW "Trailer" tires. 4) Suretrac Power Touring - There is stock in Edmonton warehouse which happens to be the Canadian headquarters for Suretrac. Unfortunately, only #3 and Hankooks are narrow WWs. Suretracs are 1.4" wide for 70 series and 1.5" wide for 75 series. Although wider, they are period correct. Tom McCahill of Mechanix Illustrated after test driving the new 1963 Riviera commented: "Look how narrow the whitewalls are becoming" https://suretractirescanada.com/ Warehouse: 16309 - 117 Avenue, Edmonton, Alberta

Mike, You are in Edmonton. There is a warehouse in the west-end there that supplies their dealer network with WSW tires. I know, I know, 1.4" WSWs. I'll update the post you mentioned that was started by Andrew in southern Ontario.

Link to ROA Tech Tips by fellow Member in WI. Quite the project but a quality finished piece. Not sure if 17" tires can be had in a WSW. Title: "Build a Larger Rallye Wheel" https://rivowners.org/members-only/Tech/larger_rallye_wheel.html 17" Wheel for 275/55-17 which would be an oversize tire for 1st Gen Riviera's at 28.9" overall diameter:

Still off topic - but driving my Riviera as a driver back in the 80s, I actually WANTED MY LICENSE PLATE TO FLOP OVER. This was for photo radar which was really bad back then. Many tickets, some falsely captured due to no training. To do this, I was looking for a long bowden cable to attach to the shifter with the other end to push the license plate down when shifted into"Drive". Shifting back into "Park", the plate would pop back up. Today, speeding tickets are not nearly as bad. Police have more important functions than feeding the municipalities' "Cash Cow"

Is it an issue? I respectively assume you sensed something not normal and perhaps that is the case. But keep in mind full power steering and brakes back in the 60s. Manual brakes on "Lessor GMs" had the pushrod closer to the fulcrum and hence, more travel. Then there was a hole further away from the fulcrum for power brakes. So, less travel. The wear we see on the extreme left of the pedal pad is from tilting your right foot to the left while leaving the heel at the bottom of the accelerator pedal. This is how I drove my many rides of the 60s with power everything. So, was cranking the steering wheel with my index finger in parking lots. However, I have to LIFT my foot off the accelerator to apply the brakes in my 1963 Riviera. My shoe tip collides with the bottom of the steering column. This is not unlike other interior dimensions of 1st generation Riviera's. It seems everything is small, the seat all the way back despite re-locating it and just-enough-head room if I tilted the seat all the way down. Back in the early 90s, I noticed how steering wheels were no longer over the Driver's Lap because of airbags. Armrests for BOTH elbows, not just on the door panel. Many changes over time. Good times back in the day skipping classes and cruising to the next town for coffee. We loved our cars for cruising. Couldn't get any better or so we thought. Today, my Riviera drives like an old car!

Yes, and early 1963 Riviera 7J1004581 120 MPH Speedo and no dimple in the vacuum reservoir. However, it does have the correct OSRV Mirror but mounted forward which is indicative lf mid uear production. A NY car, no AC. No image of trunk, suspect rust. How does 4-Note horns work without that dimple?

Wire Hubcaps will mount on 6" wide Buick Road wheels, with center caps off of course. This will no doubt scratch the chrome. I've toyed with the idea of removing the teeth on my wire hubcaps and secure it to the rim at the 2.125" center hole. I can then toss my regular 5.5" wheels thereby saving considerable storage space.

I concur.

To elaborate, this is to prepare for eventual disassembly or to retard corrosion of dis-similar metals. Not so much freeing steel threads in cast iron block. Bolt shanks are long. Will require repeated applications for penetrant to wick-up the full length. FYI, we only learn of broken bolts and corroded water pump cavities. I just did this in June. Following helpful tips on this Forum, much soaking, tapping and rocking of bolts and all came out. Upon re-assembly, I re-used all 60 year old bolts lathered with Kop-R-Kote on threads and shanks

Would SS Trim Rings hiding blemishes be considered too much chrome?

Longer, much longer for me. What year? 1st generation? Passenger side, good. However, the driver's door glass has to be lowered a crack and raised after closing the door. Otherwise, there's a slight weatherstrip over-bite. Will adjust height of door glass when door skin is off for vent window seal and gear replacement. From memory, only one way to install. Maybe the cross-section of your new weatherstrip is larger then original. 1st gen bare edge flat glass weatherstrip should be no different than other GM hardtops with curved glass.

There is a housing crisis in Canada. Worrisome for our kids' generation to find affordable housing in major centers. New housing will be less and less a typical suburban house with front/backyards, garage, and basements but will have perpetual monthly strata fees.

My wife would say "Ya!". "You promised you'd sell it once you got it on-the-road". I'll admit I said that with her within earshot during many struggles with my Riviera. We will be downsizing next year. I haven't a clue how to keep the Riviera and another project when it happens. It took a long time to make it a reliable driver and I finally got to the good part, tinkering and improving. It is a Beautiful GM. So, for now, I'll keep at it, TX🤐

Same here, have yet to inspect body mounts. Being 60 years old, I'm sure all 1st Gen body mounts require re-fresh. It goes on and on. Is there a point where our Rivieras's are no longer a project? How to define when a project is complete? When all that is required is detail work? On the way to various car meets this summer, I usually forget to bring bottled water and a FOR SALE Sign!

I just stumbled upon this youtube clip on Nailhead Timing Chain replacement in-car. I did this in June and cracked open my AC to remove the condenser anticipating camshaft replacement but did not proceed. Video is very basic. I could add much more important detail. I used the same 9-keyway roller timing chain and struggling with it set me back 2.5 days. Finally installed, the chain was NOT tight as shown in the video. Looking out for Part 2:

Ah, much appreciated! Now THOSE are real gaskets and would be most suitable with that plate if exhaust holes were open. I still prefer it without the plate and holes plugged. TX!

Really? Can't say the same for my "forever project" Very impressive, nice stance with those springs. RHD too!

That image was taken early in my troubleshooting where I was about to mount the $400 AFB rebuild. So, black (including all 8 sparkplugs) happened due to a leaking float needle. That float needle resolution was the only item that made a difference. Lots of work since and no change. More work: 1) Run engine and scrutinize crankcase ventilation. 2) Resolve Exhaust Manifold Leaks. 3) Run engine, more troubleshooting/adjustments. Then remove AFB, inspect and possibly return to local rebuilder for re-do. But, not throwing any more $$$ at it. 4) Re-route crankcase breather intake to inside Air Cleaner, similar to emissions mod from back-in-the-day as shown in image near the top of this post. 5) Use only one gasket when mounting the next carburetor. Don't like that plate (image):

New Clark's Leather and carpet being exposed to Nailhead stink. So, looking for Auto Leather protectant. What product? Similar to too many flavours of Pertronix, holding off. Sigh, more research, Neetsfoot Oil, Mink Oil, what? Now this, I like how it mentions "SWEET SMELL" Protectant: https://leatheriquecanada.com/

I too wondered about oil level and that 10,000 miles is way beyond service interval. They added a vent to the fuel tank AND red/green level switch to stop 60 psi fuel xfer. So, maybe they added a level switch in the oil sump. Knowing how much of oil capacity is in windage, they could determine a safe level above the pickup tube. My thoughts.