XframeFX

Please follow-up with your results, TX.

Ha, I just purchased and installed a flush 1/4" NPT socket plug to replace the radiator drain today. Otherwise I would have to remove the passenger side lower radiator saddle. 33 years is too far back to recall where I acquired the radiator. Obviously incorrect to my '63 Riviera. A sad looking radiator but I'm running it! Tomorrow, will figure out how to mount the bottom of the fan shroud ? ? ?

The Delco V8 distributor with the Windowed Cap is a "Small Cap" distributor. The spacing between towers on the cap is not enough for 50,000 Volts. However, I do support upgrading the Trigger Circuit to enable full voltage to the coil, not just during Start. So, a larger sparkplug gap and no ballast resistor. But again, just like too many choices for coil selection, too many choices for aftermarket breakerless ignitions (notice me not describing it as electronic ignition?) ALL PARTS purchased today require prior research. Yes, Caveat Emptor

I know, too many choices and more research. Are you running original Contact Breaker Points or, original Delco distributor converted to breakerless ignition? For contact points, you'd want a coil with approx. 1.5Ω primary resistance. Oil filled is default although some say oil filled coils should always be mounted vertical. Epoxy seal coils are for high vibration applications and they can be mounted in any position. Breakerless ignition can usually accept a wider range of coils less than 1.5Ω. Choosing a brand name is best of course. But beware some are sourced and packaged with that Brand name.

PDQ - this week!

So, I did not swap out my original camshaft as the Lobes and replacement Sealed Power 896 Lifters (with the crown face) from 1993 appear happy. I disassembled each of the 16 hyd lifters to clean them up in Varsol. They really weren't too bad. Sure residual dirty oil in the lifter body. Also, no check ball like original. Instead a disc as the lifters check valve. Considering my Nailhead is original, it was quite dirty inside, I regret not doing an oil change and run the engine prior to disassembly. So now upon start-up with fresh oil, a slug of old oil still in the oil galleries will enter my "clean Lifter cavities", un-doing my cleaning. I could soak the lifters in oil or pump while submerged. This would prevent that "slug" from entering the clean Lifters. However, I will not be able to check Lifter pre-load when tightening the rocker shaft which was observed as correct before disassembly. Of course, do not want to bend pushrods either. Lots of online recommendations fore and against soaking in oil. With my drill, I could prime with the Lifters out and fresh oil in the pan. Would that accomplish a halfway purge? Soak Hydraulic Valve Lifters or not?

Not going to show my 1963 Trunk Liner. Typical of Riviera challenges, the 1st attempt is not the final product. I botched covering the wheel wells and the cutout at the bottom. A trick method? I purchased this for my when I re-do it the 2nd time. Will help for the cutout. How to do the wheel wells?:

Wow, there's a few of us that have had Rivieras long term. I had my fuel tank repaired. They painted it black. The straps cleaned up as black, not repainted. So, blends in with the tank. I used new SS Bolts. Not sure if mine is correct as new, just what I have it as now.

I too was chasing vacuum leaks. Recently discovered Felpro gasket set has steel shims for the intake manifold. Had I known, I would've re-torqued the bolts. The same set had composite head gaskets that were blamed for leaking at the oil ports. Composite/Steel Shims? Felpro had it backwards!

1963: Of all varieties of vacuum advance pots, only the B1 is left in production. Luckily, this is the correct unit for the 1963 Delco 1110993 Distributor. My test on a new B1: Starts @ 7.5 - Max @ 15.5'Hg Total stroke is .132" So, 15° with vacuum advance is within spec. I hope this helps Frank Spec:

Absolutely it's safer. But justifying a conversion depends how recent your brakes are. Most notably the hydraulic system of course. Even with a dual circuit system, loss of a circuit will be startling on 1st application of the brakes. Less responsive and pedal sinking lower. So, hopefully no nearby obstacles. Upon realization, the Riviera can than be limped home. Single circuit hydraulic failure will result in total loss of brakes. If staying with this system, make sure your E-Brakes work. Try it out on a residential street. If your 3 hoses, fluid, wheel cylinders and master cylinder are recent, you should be good. If you can't remember when the last flush was done, bleed the brakes with fresh fluid. Also check your power booster if it holds vacuum. You should have at least 2 applications of power assist after shutting down the engine. Try it again after the engine has been off for a better part of the day. If no assist, the check valve or power booster need attention. If you need to address any or all of these, then it would be a good idea to convert to a dual system.

Ditto, 23 pages inlcuding a Mecury Parklane stn. wagon. THANKS! My nailhead is still coming together. Glad I replaced the water pump with a Chinese replacement that's actually better with the oversize bearing. That Fenco fan clutch is HEAVY!

I missed you Friday Morning. But we met (along with my son) Thursday PM. Dean, great to have met you! I realized later I should've asked to sit in the driver's seat of your Riviera to try out your RS OSRV Mirror!

This one (#18500) is for BIG GMs - 80mm Piston I would go for it but a steering box replacement and Dynaflow swap are at the bottom of my priority list with them functioning perfectly. https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/18500

Buick Luck - 3 steps forward, 2 steps backwards What year Riviera? If going rebuild route, determine if plating or painting is part of the service.

New Bezels? Seals form Steele Rubber? Water easily enters from taillights Bezel gaskets from Steele Rubber are expensive but they work. "You get what you pay for". I coat them with this stuff (like petroleum jelly): "You get what you pay for"

Why don't you contact owner Tim and ask? Being the custodian of a '64 Riviera Super Wildcat he is ROA member #11625. You'll find his contact info in the ROA Member Roster XLS. I prefer the 1965 instrument panel but '66 Wildcats are awesome! Some 1966 Memorabilia - "Place Your Order Today!"

The 1963 Service Bulletin (2nd item in "Fuel & Exhaust Group 3 I think), shows the routing of that 1/4" return line. Applies to "High-End Buicks" with A/C but Figure-2 shows a different alternator that has belt adjust at the top and no A6 compressor! I have a feeling inline fuel filters with 1/4" port are in the process of becoming extinct like pancake air cleaner elements. Would be a good idea to stock up if we encounter any.

I am soon to find out. Small, slow steps, but the Nailhead is coming together! Oh darn, I still have to clean out those lifters, all 16 of them!

So, at a local Speed Shop, I was informed of Comp Cams newest product, their #812D Flat Tappet Hyd. Lifters. Unfortunately the part number is for Chevys only. Hopefully other applications will follow. They appear to be good but, coated? Only $124 for 16? Being NEW, no customer track record. Hate to be a guinea pig for this one so, Chevys can be it! https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-dlc-hydraulic-flat-lifters-for-chevrolet-small-and-big-block.html

For 1G Rivieras, make sure HEAT is ON. Meaning, the water valve is open. Obvious but can be missed if doing a 1st start after major work - multi-tasking.

The radiator petcock should work fine even on an old radiator. Removing the lower radiator hose will drain even more coolant. However, the block will still have coolant. Removing 1/4" NPT plugs on either side of the block will drain it totally. Maybe soak them with penetrant first. What about coolant? I considered "Evans Cool", a waterless coolant. A little too much prep work for me and costly. What about flushing? Something we did in the old days was to install a Prestone Tee in the heater core inlet hose. To flush, we would remove the cap on the Tee and attach a garden hose. I discovered an unused kit in the back of my cabinet last weekend, neat!

Amazing what quality parts were used during GM assembly. After-market seldom "Meets or Exceeds OE Specifications". So, does harness tape purchased today meet that spec? Why not go one better, a product that wasn't available back in 1970? You'd want "SELF VULANIZING SILICONE TAPE". This was a specialty tape available only at Industrial suppliers and manufactured by 3M and Plysil. Only now, it's sold at Box stores at a fraction of industrial prices. The tape is laced with cellophane and has a high temp rating. You stretch it on and it vulcanizes. You will want 1-mil Black silicone tape. Patch-up is one thing. But, to re-wrap a harness requires skilled craftsmen at GM's Packard Electric. With Silicone Tape, no skill is required and patches-up old wrap perfectly. Conventional wrap is for re-wrapping a whole harness from scratch. While stripping my old 1963 harness, I observed what skill went into it and the quality of the wrap which I still have in a pile. 60 years old! I very much doubt harness tape today has the same quality.

Bob, How about plain-o zinc plating and a bath to smooth it out, with or without clear powder coat you mentioned?

Plan-B to the BCA Nationals in Spokane had my son and I driving my daily driver Wrangler and not the Riviera (Plan-A). When my son was driving, he insisted on switching the UOM in the onboard computer from Metric to SAE. A peculiar visual observation, the Bar Graph for MPG went THE OTHER WAY from Litres/100 KMs! I was startled but only for a moment - LOL😅