XframeFX

Ed, careful with your recommendation. Because you did it. I'm now following-up with my personal experience. It is based on "You're 15 years too late" What you see below is a rebuilt 12" Variable Pitch Torque Converter meant for a ST300. Story: After many attempts to locate a unit, "NO" after acknowledging the 13" VP Torque Converter. However, some did say they can do it with a $100 core charge. "Fine" I said, keep the $100 because I don't have a core. "We have no core either. You bring us your core". Several places were this way. Even J. Weiss at V8Buick had zero cores of either size. Size? From him, I learned of two, the 2nd being a 12" VP Torque converter. "You'll want that one" Fast forward 5 years. I have acquired several 13" units locally. The 1st required extracting the seized Buick 340 in under an hour to make an appointment. Others were there for the taking because engines were already gone, thank-you. My 1st and only 12" required another seized Oldsmobile 330 extraction during a bitter December. It required 3 trips and sneaking a torch into the wrecking yard. That core was in my checked bag on a business trip to a Refinery in Vancouver area. After my meeting, I did a hectic triangle in my rental during a weatherly rush hour. I barely made the shop before closing then rushed off to YVR Airport because my wife announced she was joining me that day. The following week while travelling on another trip, the shop called to say they had one rebuilt on the shelf after all. "Would I like that one?" Dumb-founded, "Sure", then out of cell-phone service. Not long after, I came to realize that $25 core saved me $75 of the $100 core charge after all that effort! Also, the off-the-shelf rebuild would not be according to J. Weiss's instructions! The next day back in cell-phone service I called the Shop and too late, that rebuilt unit was sent out on a Greyhound. I was mad enough to purchase two! Go ahead, Laugh!😆 I have crawled under many wrecks with a 12V battery pack to listen for a solenoid click on that 2nd prong. It saved me a couple of engine pulls because there was no click. Many rebuilt transmissions had that VP function removed. I won't allow being Laughed at Twice! 13" VP Torque Converters are a rare find today because I have the remaining few! That baby 12", even worse! 12 Inch Variable Pitch Torque Converter - Mystery Build:

What did you do for a shifter and enabling the Start/Backup Switch to function? You have the switch pitch version of the ST400? Since you have had both transmissions in the same car, can you please comment on before/after throttle response? I'm sure it was worth it. I need some positive motivation along with $2K or so to rebuild my core ST400. Still curious if I can insert a 1964 front drive shaft into the yoke of the 1963 rear drive shaft at the center support. Possible? If it's possible, not worth the trouble. Just look for a 1965-66 unit. That might be difficult as well because I've noticed some Nailhead ST400s on wrecking yard shelves that have been converted away from its original switch pitch during a rebuild. Warning signs of a rebuild are a painted case. I have amassed various switch pitch torque converters and front pumps in recent years after being told I'm 15 years too late.

BOP TH400s were available with switch-pitch for BB Buicks & Oldsmobile for the 3 years from 1965-67. Chev TH400s can be converted by swapping out the Torque Converter, Front Pump and rear poly bung for one with a 2-prong connector. The last item is to install an orifice in the image below. A cap broken off an AGC fuse with the glass cleaned out and drilling a hole works. TH400 Variable Pitch 13" Torque Converter and Variable Pitch Front Pump showing 2-prong connector extracted from a BOP 1966 340 cu. in. LeSabre 400:

Certainly. Three Bellhousing types were cast for the TH400. The Nailhead was first in the 1-year only/ Nailhead only 1964 transmissions. After that, the Nailhead bellhousing was used for 2 more model years shared with other GMs which by 1967, there were only two for GM. That would be Chevrolet and BOP/Cadillac. So, a direct swap. If you have an AFB, swap out the primary shaft for one having the switch-pitch bellcrank. This will allow use of a 1965/66 Combo switch. You will also need a 1965/66 dashpot bracket. I did this to my 1963 AFB and fab'd a lever to use the Dynaflow's variable pitch to function (image-1). If you have a Rochester 4G, best to swap it out, good luck finding a donor carb.

Man, I thought having my Nailhead for 43+ years was a long time! I never was a car flipper, partially due to being locked-in unfinished projects. Looking at posted Rivieras never gets OLD!

Hmm . . . Mine is the same. All I feel/see is an inverted tarnished post with a fine groove at the bottom. Still not sure what the mechanical Adv bushing should look like. As for the Vac Adv, the rubber bushing at the 90⁰ bend is a mod? If not, is this the bushing that falls off or was there a rubber bushing on the Mech Adv Post? Others have fabricated a plate to limit travel.

I did not push it the full travel, just enough to access with my screwdriver. I tested it out of the box, So, I un-installed it and re-tested. Produced the same values so, still good. Re-installing the 2nd time, I realized using the vacuum pump exposed both screws. Duh, should've thought of it before!

A custom finish is nice. But any car will look good with a fresh quality re-paint, especially the 1st Gen Riviera. Considering our age bracket, I'd paint it a colour that will maximize its value. I would assume that would be the original Bronze Mist. I would also assume you'll enjoy the original colour just as much because the paint will be fresh and Riveiras already look good! I did not re-paint my Riv the original "Arctic White" back in 1992. I chose a 1991 Chrysler White in a Dupont ChromaBase with 8500 Clear. No regrets, people still comment on my "fresh paint job". It's 30 years old!

oh oh

The rubber I have coming will have 1.4" WSW. Thought they would "grow" on me with time. WSW size is not much of a factor 15' back. Looks better with wire 'caps than than rally wheels. Those images are definitely old. Fuel prices across from that Chevron are what we have today in Canada $$CAD/Litre Nice '63 Riviera Jim! You've seen my other post. That is exactly what I desire. Hesitant in removing steel grippers on my wire 'caps. I had a chance to buy a set here for cheap but would like a 5th rough hubcap too try out.

A little side question on Jim's Tire's. Is that a 1.5" WSW? What size tire? Brand? A recent post on this Forum identified WSW tires as unobtainum in Canada, almost. A local tire shop has them, or had them. Gone when I got there. More coming from China. I insisted on a deposit to ensure the first 5 are mine out of the sea-can. Unsure about the 1.5" WSW. Yours look good but need to see them with hubcaps. Better yet, on the Riviera.

Can anyone advise if I have to remove the grill to extract the camshaft from my Nailhead? The camshaft is exactly 2' long which brings it directly behind the grill's center point. I know I'll have to remove the Hood Latch which required much work after locking me out every time. I know the camshaft's rear journal will be smaller than the block's front bearing when extracting it forward towards the grill. So, perhaps I can angle it out? Strange how the Shop Manual has extensive dialogue on hyd valve lifters and nothing on the camshaft.

What cover? The retractor or the anchor (with the "hook") it bolts to? Retractor covers are reproduced. Hopefully that is what you need. Sad fact of the 1-year only 1st Gen retractor belts. If the plastic covers aren't shattered, the steel anchors are usually rusted through. Extremely rare after 58 years. You might have to purchase a 1965 Riviera to get those lap belts.

Thanks All, Seen this just now and trying to grasp all of Tom's tips. Re-reading, there are 2 bushings? Was unaware there was one for the vacuum advance? However, I already did the vacuum advance install this PM. Found that the 2 screws are partially covered by the breaker plate. I used a small flat blade "tweaker screwdriver" to lever at the 90⁰ rod to depress it enough to fully expose both screws. Look at Kev's red circled screw at the top of this post. One of 2 screws partially covered. Out-of-the-Box, the B1 vac adv tested .18" @ 19" Hg travel or .124" @ 16" Hg. This changed to .116" travel @19" Hg when installed. This is very close to the .124" travel of the 60 year old Vac Adv I replaced. My notes indicates .104" of travel equates to 10⁰ vacuum advance. So close, why bother devising a stop? TX. Bernie, your Syracuse Nationals Tee-Shirt! The Mech. Adv Bushing? This tip will save me purchasing a Morosso Kit when all I want for now is the bushing.

Great outcome! Feels good to have as much as possible functional on our Rivieras. What Delco model number is yours Bill? I usually prefer to farm out modules for re-installation and be done as is the case with Bill's Delco. But, I DIY'd my AM/FM Delco 980659 and am quite please with my handi-work so much so, I'd like to do more. AM/FM electrical schematic is not in the Shop Manual so, I had to purchase a Photo Facts Book from Steve Johnson in Syracuse, not far from Robert Pacini. https://antiqueradioschematics.org/contact.htm A big improvement in my upgrade was to replace the final stage amplifier with a German 12W Class-A Mono Unit that allows for a modern 4W 3-Way 6X9 speaker. But hey, I kept the old distortion prone amp in-place and can select with a toggle behind the tuner knob provisioned for a Fader in other cars. No need for a Fader. With the increased dynamic range of that big 6X9 pointed towards my back, talk shows and sporting events come in loud and clear, not just tunes. If I have the Delco out again, I'd like to replace that inefficient Choke hanging on the outside of the cabinet with a modern DC-to-DC device below.

. . . . and it belongs there. On the topic of Distributor and the Vacuum Advance Actuator, a question: Can the Vacuum Advance be replaced without disassembling the Distributor? Another stupid question on the Distributor: Can the missing Mechanical Advance Bushing be replaced without disassembling same? I'll buy a Morosso Mechanical Adcance spring kit just for the included bushing. Thanks in Advance!

aaah, finally see the modified pancake air cleaner! Your image explains a lot. 1.5" riser eh? What about on a Rochester Q-Jet? I've abandoned the idea of switching to the smaller airhorn on an Edelbrock 1407 750 CFM to fit the pancake air cleaner. I'm holding out for a spreadbore setup topped with Ray's modified air cleaner. Good to share "Big Difference" going to a 750 CFM carb and stating the displacement of your nailhead as a 401. TX!

So we have consensus, classy wire 'caps on the RS and sporty center caps on the LS!

I've had two Twin Turbine Transmissions as they were called in 1963. The low band failed in the 2nd. Maybe previous Owners using it too much or engaging at high speeds. Neither had serious leaks except that failed rebuild. Cause? When relaxed at zero RPM, every torque converter partially drains back to the transmission sump. Only item I can think of is the front pump seal. Correct? Yes, this passive transmission is cool but it is far from an efficient fluid coupling as declared in Page 5-10 of the shop manual. As a conventional transmission by today's standards, the ST400 has far too much parasitic losses but is far more efficient than the "Dynaslow". Would've thought a swap to my yet to be rebuilt 1965 ST400 would be in place by now. Craving for throttle response! Still, if 3 conditions were in-place on the Dynaflow 1) 1st Turbine reduction of 1.6 : 1 ratio 2) Stator in high pitch and 3) Low gear engaged 1.82 : 1 ratio, the resulting torque multiplication is 6.18! However, why so unresponsive? That heavy, sluggish torque convertor, my analysis. Page 5-15 in the 1963 Shop Manual:

Great, I'll be transitioning from 30 year 3/4" WSW to new 1.5" WSW tires. Not sure about appearance. Thought they would grow on me. Hmmmm . . . .😕

Congrats Andrew. You were the one alerting us on the WSW situation. A simple trip across the bridge from Sarnia huh? Nexen N'Priz are supposed to be good, all season tread of course. Check the sidewall for country-of-Origin. I am waiting for SureTrac all season tires to arrive from China.

You didn't mention what year. Oldair.com - this one for 1963, a bargain at $104/set. I struggled with replacing the core with music wire before discovering this: https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/26-1463-ez-slider-cable-set?gfid=p118170-c145140 Again, what year? 1963 Shop Manual identifies colour striped vacuum hoses Again, Oldair.com: https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/23-0905-vacuum-hose

Agree. Check with them on external balance requirements for specific Nailheads and if it is a concern. I'd say anything other than an original Harmonic Balancer would get you "In-the-Ball-Park" for balance of rotating/reciprocating mass. Infact, external balance masses are considered "a trim balance". An excessive imbalance has to be corrected on the Crankshaft assuming all reciprocating masses are correct. Excellent Images and video Sparkkeeper. Certainly helps trouble shooting. Rivnut's June 4th, 2020 image of an assembly with bob weights on a balancing stand is the correct procedure PRIOR TO FINAL ENGINE ASSEMBLY of course. Definitely worth the expense. However, back to the Balancer, There were many final year Nailheads (1965-66) at DVP Auto's Black Canyon Lot in January. A last resort if you can't find any.

A surprise to find something like this '66 Electra in 2023? So, what was that I encountered under the hood? A rats nest? "Holy infestation!", a good description! This car was a new arrival at DVP's Black Canyon Lot. Not picked-over and sitting outside the Lot Gates. With all that they had out there, lucky for my wife, I couldn't find much anything to bring back on the flight home, except for the '65 seatbelt fiasco. In Alberta, we have had a "Rat Patrol" for eons. The Province is supposedly "Rat-Free".