EmTee

I'll blame this thread for shaming me into finally troubleshooting the inoperative rear quarter windows on my '67... The LR window was intermittent when I got the car and soon thereafter just quit working. The RR window was working until about 2 years ago. I started by opening-up the master switch panel on the driver's door. I had suspected a broken wire between the door and the A-pillar, but that was just a hunch prior to troubleshooting the problem. I removed the switch panel and bench-tested each of the window switches using my Ohm meter. All of the switches were functioning properly (~1 Ohm resistance when closed). With the rear seat bottom removed I was able to remove the L and R inner quarter trim panels, exposing the window regulator mechanism and motor. With the motors connected I verified that I could read individually read continuity between the UP and DOWN sockets at the master switch connector and chassis ground. This confirmed continuity of the UP/DOWN wires and the armature brushes in each motor. Next, with the ignition ON, I verified that the 12V feed was present at the center socket of each of the rear quarter window switches. These checks told me that there were, in fact, no broken wires between the master switch and the windows. Next I used a separate 12V battery (the car battery was disconnected) to feed the LR motor directly. I got an arc at the switch connector, but the motor didn't budge in either direction. At this point it was looking like a mechanical issue with the window mechanism. I removed the 3 bolts attaching the window regulator/motor assembly to the body, noting that the window was very tightly closed as evidenced by the bolts being pushed against the opposite side of their respective mounting holes; there was quite a bit of tension. On the bench, I connected the motor/regulator assembly to the separate battery using jumper wires and verified proper operation in both directions. With that, I concluded that the window was jammed shut and there was no electrical issue. I then removed the small track at the rear of the quarter glass, allowing me to clean and lubricate the channel and wheel (attached to the glass). I did likewise on the short channel attached to the regulator arm and the forward window roller. After first 'bumping' the motor DOWN to partially lower the regulator, I then reassembled everything and lubricated the long, forward track (which I did not remove or disturb). I then applied 12V directly at the LR quarter window switch connector, running the glass up and down several times verifying smooth operation. I then moved to the RR window and before doing anything else I applied 12V at the switch connector and to my surprise, the window moved down! Without disassembling anything on the right side I was able to cycle the window up and down using my jumper wires. I decided to simply lubricate the rollers and channels using a spray lubricant w/ straw. I then ran the window up and down several times and verified smooth operation. I'm now ready to reassemble the rear inner panels and reinstall the rear seat bottom. The last thing I want to do is try to clean the socket contacts at the master window switch, as the contacts do look a bit dull and dirty. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the socket holes and connected/disconnected the switch two or three times. I'd like to attempt to squish the socket leaves a little tighter together any apply a bit of 'Ox Guard' to the switch pins before connecting the master switch for the last time.

Sorry for your loss. The sad thing is they're still building Outbacks...

My thought is there are probably a combination of sticky and/or burnt valves (e.g., #6) and sticky rings (the blow-by). In the past I've had reasonably good results adding Rislone to clean oil to help free sticky valves and lifters. Stuck rings may be tougher to resolve without disassembly, depending upon how much carbon is fouling the ring grooves and the condition of the rings themselves. You can certainly try lowering the oil level in the crankcase and driving the car. Exercising it should help loosen things up to a point. Drive the car, monitor the compression, and see what happens.

I've had good results with Meguiar's # 7 Show Car Glaze.

Remley's wheels look great out in the sunshine!

Never twist a brake hose, or install one routed with any 'twist'.

Try contacting Dave Tachney. I believe he is located in the state of Minnesota. He is best reached by phone at 763-427-3460 between 4:00 and 7:00 pm in the US Central Time Zone.

What garage??? That's the Buick's bedroom!

This ^^^ is precisely what makes the Buick community on this AACA forum the best!

That's a classy combination, but the reverse (black w/silver leather) would really stand out to me!

So, what's the verdict? There's probably no way to really know how many cycles that starter had over the 80K miles, but I'll bet it had to easily be five to ten times what a 'normal' car would see over that span. I guess that means the design is pretty robust. I never understood why all the effort to incorporate that start/stop baloney until spending some time on the gulf coast of FL. When being stopped at a light for 10 minutes every half mile begins to add up...

If they are like the ones on my '38 they are held on by spring-clips along the length with a stud at each end. Remove the nuts at each end from behind and then carefully push each of the spring clips through their holes.

I found this barn one day when I was out driving around in my Riviera!

That may be the lesser of two evils...

The window motors are all the same, however, they are mounted to regulators specific to the window location. If your troubleshooting shows power is getting to the motor and it fails to operate, 9 times out of 10 the motor can be fixed. The motors are quite robustly designed and usually if disassembled you'll find the gear drive is packed full of old, dry, hard grease and/or one or both brushes are stuck in their holder and not contacting the commutator. Be careful if you attempt repair, however, as there is a strong clock-spring on the regulator that can hurt you if a finger is caught in the wrong place. Remove the motor with the window up and secure the window somehow to stay up when the motor is removed. If you want to send your motor(s) out for service, contact Steve Lorenzen (ROA #5684) at fostermom1962@yahoo.com .

Don't forget your cell phone!

What did your girlfriend (wife?) think of them?

Perhaps a bit harsh, but I get your point. On the other hand, I don't see a problem asking a question like that on a forum like this - particularly when it comes to electrical issues. There can be dozens of reasons why something like a window stopped working, but it can be helpful to reach out to learn about the most common causes for a particular make/model, as that can allow even someone with reasonable expertise to focus their investigation and save some troubleshooting time...

I remember driving a customer's 6-cylinder, 3-speed '65 Mustang when working at my buddy's father's gas station. My recollection of the experience is that the stick made it actually quite fun to drive.

Mind your ankles on ingress/egress!

Another common issue is a broken wire in the loom that passes from the driver's door to the A-pillar. The passenger side windows get power fed from the master switch on the driver's door. Also check the connectors at each switch, as Joe mentioned; those can work loose also.

Does your Riviera have a temperature light on the dashboard? I don't think that my '67 has any - just the gauge. I'm thinking that you will just leave the sensor pin for the light control (i.e., the switch pin) disconnected.

The '65 Wildcat is a handsome design and a Super Wildcat is certainly a rare bird. Can't wait to see it!

Do your diagrams reflect the documentation provided with the VDO gauge? If you're not sure, you should check the sensor with an Ohm meter or 12V test light. Ground the sensor body and apply 12V to each pin using a test light. The thermistor pin should light the light dimly. The switch pin should not light the test light at all.