EmTee

Those don't look like Skylark wheel covers -- but I can't quite figure out what car they came from.

Forget the whitewalls -- those snow tires suit this rig perfectly!

Pictures, please!

John, I had to chuckle when I read this, but i know exactly what you mean! Tempus Fugit!

Well, at least when the manual headlights fail to come or or go off you know what (or who) is to blame!

Well, I do like those FWD Rivieras, but the Continental kit... not so much. The Le Sabre (looks like a '70) has a beautiful paint job -- but those wheels belong at the top of a windmill (or maybe a pram).

Yes, you're right - that's the one Napa calls for. 1049 is the long version, whereas 1258 is shorter; either will function for this application. If you have the space, use the 1049. The equivalent Purolator filter for the 1049 is #30005. Pep Boys here stocks the Purolator.

My memory is fuzzy on this, but I think there's an overflow/vent port molded into the bottle. It must be on the far side of the bottle (not visible in the photo). I think the only hose connection was from the radiator neck to the bottle.

I love this thread and can't wait to see each new log entry! Thanks again for taking the rest of along on your adventure!

Wow - driving a Tesla followed by the Model T has got to be the closest thing to time travel that one can experience on four wheels!

I can see that comparison. I had a '92 Le Sabre and I really liked the look, ride and overall performance. That 3800 SFI was a great engine. Nearly 30 mpg on the highway - a nice car that finally succumbed to the CNY road salt...

I recognize this as an aftermarket bottle that was widely available in auto parts stores in the 70's. That funky bracket is surely up to the task of holding that plastic bottle with a quart of coolant -- but it's not an OEM installation!

I believe that 1967 is the first year for the 'energy absorbing' (collapsible) column.

Wix 51258, which I believe is the same as Napa's 1258.

Dan -- Thanks for the continued snippets of Rt 66 history. The tree growing between those service ramps is the only clue as to how much time has passed. Glad to hear the Buick is running like clockwork. So, how many miles traveled thus far?

I think those bags look Photoshopped!

Yeah, but there are no Flowmasters available for the Tesla -- that Hellcat roar is half the fun!

Indiscriminate sandblasting could be the root cause of some wheel failures. Heavy blasting work hardens the steel and can make it brittle. Oxidation has the same effect chemically and put the two together and it can be trouble. A severely corroded wheel that is heavily blasted will look clean, but will have a hardened surface with oxidation remaining in the nooks and crannies that the sand missed. Such wheels would fail regardless of the tire type. I contend the greater grip provided by the more uniform radial tire contact patch is the reason that radial tires 'break wheels'. Bias ply tires, on the other hand, will break traction and put the car in the ditch, sparing the wheel. Most likely any wheel that failed with a radial tire mounted was unsafe to begin with.

This trip is now on my 'bucket-list'...

"Reversible white sidewall tires..." Interesting -- so, does that simply mean that the other side is black; or the additional $60 allows the car to safely back-up...?

Didn't the new bearings that you bought come with the races? Re-using the same worn race could explain the persistent bearing failures at that wheel. Also, carefully inspect the inner bearing and race. That bearing is larger and carries more load. A problem there could possibly stress the smaller outer bearing.

Wow! That '59 El(ectra) Camino is slick! GM shudda built that one!

Thanks, Barney - I'm familiar with you from the Buick forums. What's your 'guesstimate' for fixing the antenna on my '64 GP? It's currently in the DOWN position, the motor runs, but it won't go up...

The symptoms definitely sound electrical, rather than mechanical. I agree with KongaMan that this could be a different manifestation of that other pesky gremlin you're chasing. It may also be the sending unit is right at its ON/OFF point when hot and idling in DRIVE. If so, raising the idle slightly (as Riviera63 did), or replacing the sender may fix it. In any case, temporarily (or permanently) installing a gauge will confirm or rule-out an engine issue.

That's how you know it's alive!