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Hi Matthew, thank you for the reply. The bloke near Bribie Island (I am not sure but most likely the same person as the one in Ningi) apparently has retired and sold his equipment to his apprentice who has moved to Stanthorpe. Interestingly you obviously have had a bad experience with this person, you are welcomed to pm me if you wish to elaborate further. However, my machinist recommends him but does not recommend the bloke in Enoggera.

I know there are few people who visit these forums from Australia, and specifically from Queensland. Just reaching out to any one who may know of a person who can do this type of work in Brisbane Australia. My engine machinist's usual bloke has retired and has ask me to find someone. Any leads would be much appreciated.

That middle head light, is it a factory option or an aftermarket accessory?

If you haven't already, try another battery.

If this was the case then the starter would have gotten hot and there would have been a big voltage drop at the starter and lots of current draw. Are you sure you don't have a very weak battery?

Do you mean (the rectangle red box) its going to the distributor? If so, yes that is where it should go. Inside the distributor it should be wired up to the points contact. If the -ve of the coil is coming from the ignition switch then the +ve from the coil should be going to the distributor. This is a positive ground setup. Negative ground would be the other way around. What is inside the distributor, points or electronic ignition module?

LoL! Its amazing that Buick didn't shake to bits with that monster under the bonnet (hood). That is just crazy....

Do you have access to another 6v battery? If you do, you could connect the two 6v batteries in parallel (that is +ve to +ve AND -ve to -ve) to give you more grunt (amps) to turn the starter.

With the spark plugs out, can you turn the engine over by hand? Are you sure its not still too tight?

How is the ignition coil connected? ie what is connected to the +ve terminal of the coil?

The only way of getting more torque out of the starter would be to change to pinion gear or a much BIGGER battery to supply the power .ie bigger CCA and or voltage.

OH! Don't tap the pin out, the mechanism pivots on the pin.

There is a special tool for it, but can easily be made from an old ratchet extension. Just grind the end of the extension to make it fit into the slot. Use your ratchet with the extension in the slot and turn to the right (clockwise) when looking at the above picture.

"So I guess I'm a Chrysler guy now" - its a good problem to have....:)

A good indicator (and a starting point) of what the previous owner/s may have done is to check the head light globes. Are they 12v or 6v? The globes wont care if its -ve or +ve ground.

I use this one; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPECO-ADJUSTABLE-CHROME-MECHANICAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-1-6-PSI-512-00/131267189543?epid=611561395&hash=item1e90225b27:g:hecAAOSwbqpT6Nna

My fuel pressure regulator adjusts in 0.5psi increments but you could place a fuel pressure gauge after the regulator to see where its at.

Yes but NO. The ignition system is an AC (alternating current) system, it only really functions when its on AND off after the -ve side (on a -ve ground setup) of the coil. When the primary side of the coil (+12v from your ignition) is on, ie. the points are closed, this causes the secondary side of the coil to energize, and then when the points open, the energy stored in the secondary side of the coil is released to the spark plugs.

How about one of these beauties? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/chrysler/imperial/1927596.html

Great! I will only be 74yo in 25years. And you know I will hold you to it....:)

It looks to be Stewart Warner internals, same as many other makes of the period. You can get re-manufactured ones for early Ford Model A from ebay. Its a beautiful looking speedo.

So Ben, are you going tell where the entry to ali baba's cave is?

Regarding the twin points distributor pictured above, my interchange book states that both the 72 and the 80 shared the same Delco Remy twin points distributor. But does not indicate the DR model number.

I'm sure I have seen that ratrod driving around my streets...:)

I have no idea, but my guess would be an Imperial 80 engine from the 1927/28 years