maok

That switch under the fedco plate, what does it turn on/off?

Yep, that's where carbking recommends. Its a vacuum port that you can use to tune the carb as well. Same place as mine.

It looks to be like my 1927-28 series 62 sedan.

Thanks spinney, I will check the casting number on the BB1 and hopefully someone will identify it. What would be the difference between a marine and auto carb? Jetting? Probably smaller pump? I would have thought that the jetting would be larger on a marine carb.

Did the carb swap today, it was actually a JR2, not a JR5 Tillotson, my grey matter is getting greyer. After a hiccup with the starter motor and some fine tuning of the Tillotson, she is now burning rubber like a F1 car. Well almost. After making sure it was at full engine temp., took her for a 10 minute drive and I am glad to say the problem was totally non existent. It actually really liked the Tillotson, had noticeably more get up and go than the BB1. Probably more to do with my tuning capabilities of the BB1... I will do more testing tomorrow and look further into the Carter BB1.

Yeah sorry, I should have mention the vehicle in concern. Its the green machine in my profile pic, '28 Chrysler. Its not a fuel octane or ethanol issue. Ethanol gets blamed for almost every problem in old cars, I feel sorry for poor ethanol, not that I use it. I fill up from the same servo every time. I do agree with your octane comments. The problem definitely (maybe) is more noticeably at higher constant speed. But non existent at idle, partial or full throttle situations. I will try my another carb (JR5 Tillotson) to see if the issue is still present. This should eliminate the carb or ignition.

Well its got this young Einstein stuffed. I hope I don't have to apply E=mc2 or some of his difficult equations. It doesn't do it when engine is cold but will at full operating temp. I'm going check the float level again for the infinite time....

Here is Carbkings explanation, lot better than mine;

WoW! 0.035" really? I will try it and see if it likes that much of a gap. It was actually the bolt that holds the distributor, this Einstein forgot to tighten it enough...

Perfectly normal for excess fuel to flow out from there when attempting to start. I hope you don't have your exhaust passing under the carb. Not long ago the carbking explained that you can thread a pipe to feed back up the carb to feed the excess fuel.

Nope. I pulled the carbie off many times thinking the issue was hidden inside. Yeah nah.

That was my first thought last week besides the float level. But nah.

Yes, agreed. Also, if it was a high pressure issue, it would be leaking from the vent hole and/or the pump rod entry and out the main jet down the throat. But a pressure regulator would be a good idea. I use one of these; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Speco-Meter-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-1-6-PSI-512-00-AUS-WARRANTY-/131932272533

Ok, problem solved....Anyone want to guess what the issue was?

G'day all, I've been trying to chase down what is causing this problem that has occurred recently. It just hesitates at any constant speed, but will even out when I pull the choke out a little, so it leads me to believe its carbie related. Its a Carter BB1 updraft. At idle and full throttle no noticeable issue, only at constant speed. I have played with the float level many times now but with no success. Its set about 1/32 to 1/16". I don't have the tool for setting the float but the brass float soldered SEEM is almost the top of the fuel bowl. The float tests ok. An electric fuel pump that I have been using for some time now is set about 2psi with a fuel pressure regulator, I have played with it at higher and lower levels with no success either. The spark plugs look ok, except #1 probably the cause of the missing sound at the exhaust pipe., see pic below. The gaps are all about 0.027". The ignition looks to be all good as well, dwell at about 37o angle, new rotor button and cap. I have tried new insulated spark leads as well. It does start perfectly, so the timing is good, set at about 4o BTDC. #6 to #1 #1 Any ideas?

This is from an ebay seller; This is part number 1838100. This fits the following cars with 6 cylinder engine; Chevrolet 1929-1932 and 1933-1934 Standard; Chrysler 1929 model 62 and 65; Chrysler 1930 model 66, 70; Chrysler 1930-1931 6 cylinder with delco remy distributor; 1932 Chrysler 6 cylinder; 1933 Chrysler model CO with distributor 622C; Desoto 1929-1931 with Delco system; Dodge 1930-32 and 32 model DP with 622H distributor; Graham 1929-1930 model 612 and 615 with 639W distributor; Nash 1941-1942 model 4140 with delcom distributor; Oldsmobile all 1928-1935; P)lymouth 1933 PC with 622H dist and 1934 model PF standard; Pontiac 1926-1932 all; 1931-1933 Reo standard and special; 1933 Reo model 65; 1934 Reo models 58 standard and deluxe; 1935 Reo model 73 and special 74; Reo 1936-1940 all; Studebaker 1929-1930 GL; Studebaker 1930-1931 model 53, 54; Studebaker 1932 model 55; Studebaker 1933 model 56 and 1934 Studebaker dictator deluxe. Niehoff DR51, Delco Remy 1838100 or 822465, Filko DR106, Standard DR402, Hoosick 400, Echlin RR105, Guaranteed DR35, Kem 1496, P&D RE106, Shurhit IC11, Sorenson DR94 and Tungsten DR106 As can be seen, mine measures slightly different..

Delco Remy distributors 622, 631,633, 637 (maybe a few others as well) are all very small diameter units. I will measure my 631 to see if its that size.

I get 15psi at 30mph regardless of what oil I use. Don't ask what I get at idle...:(

If its a Stewart Warner speedo then you can purchase the internals from an early Ford Model A (28-29). There are plenty available on ebay that are re-built. For my 28 Chrysler I had to modified the trip meter stork/knob to work.

Really? You must have the fancy model. My '28 series 62 has no such luxury feature...:( There is definitely a technique to entering the driver seat. Even the rear seat is a challenge for the average human of today. The space through the back door, between the back of the front seat and the c pillar is about 20". Some of the brides really squeeze them selves in...:)

It sure was character building....

This is that 2 piece (not broken) lifter.

OK, mystery solved. The lifter rack is removed by screwing in a bolt into the spacer/towel that holds up the rack on the side of the block and pulling this spacer out.

HI all, I'm scratching my head trying to work out how to remove the cam shaft. The block is bare except the lifter assembly and the cam shaft. I have the block on an engine stand and flipped upside, all the lifters are lowered to clear the cam shaft. But the lifters don't seem to go down lower enough to clear the cam shaft. When I pull the cam forward the journal of the cam makes contact with one of the lifter head, see pic. I have verified this by turn the cam which in turn turns the offending lifter. I have cleared oil, dirt, etc from under the lifter head to make sure its as low as it can go. The lifter rack/assembly cannot be removed without the lifters being removed out of the rack/assembly block through the block from where the cam shaft is, ie. the cam must be pulled out before the lifters can be removed. The lifter that has dropped is not the offending lifter that is making contact with the cam journal but the one right of it, the one without its nut and bolt. This dropped lifter seems to be either broken or these lifters are 2 piece. It dropped when I was removing the lock nut and bolt.

Actually, looking at the diagram in-depth zoomed in, it appears that the rubber isolator side is towards the pressure plate, and no discernible difference in length of the hub of either side of the friction plates. But the actually item definitely look like there was a difference.