maok

I use Penrite T250 for the trans and diff. Its very think, almost like honey. If you overfill, it will take longer to get to operating temp. and gear changes will very stiff and crunch, especially from 1st to 2nd. The Penrite water pump grease is excellent. Its more like a wax structure than grease.

I prefer to use ' Start Ya Bastard'

Are you running an electric fuel pump? If so, you will need a fuel pressure regulator between the pump and carb. If not, then check the needle&seat, and float level. You are probably over thinking the problem(/s) at hand. Most problems are ignition related then carb related.

Yeah I was just showing off with the triple SU's Wilf not being serious. But you could go for a two barrel manifold (readily available) and place a simple but very suitable Holley 350. Or a weber 32/36 or similar.

Seeing as you are just down the road from the UK, why not go this way....

Leeroy, being an updraft carbie you will get fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb if it doesn't start straight away. There should be a small drain hole. I would recommend that you pull the choke fully and then try to start it when cold. If you are familiar with any carbie, you wont have much trouble with that one, they are very simple to clean and make new gaskets for it.

Show us a pic, you from the non convict state.

Sorry, I should have been a bit more clear in my response;

I think you have discovered that you have to choke the hell out of it to start it when not at running temp. I'm in Brisbane, even I have to use the choke to start.

More pics for you Ben. Yes, you are correct about he piston pins, held in by a bolt that pass a cut out in the pin. However, these bolts were torque down very tight, need an extension on the ratchet to undo. My guess, probably around 50Nm or more. As always, there is one that is a PITA. Interestingly, there we two slightly different piston setups. Four with skirt expanders installed. All of these had a crack above the hole that holds the spring assembly inside the piston. And two without the skirt expander. Couple of chips out of the babbits in a couple big ends of the conrods. And the seals on the rear of the crank. photothumb.db

The only thing wrong about the white walls is the price. Specially here at the bottom of the globe...

IMO, the white walls adds to the sophistication of the style.

Make sure the points gap is giving you the correct dwell angle.

Pulled all the pistons today to find that all the pistons have this gap. There seems to be some sort of a spring set up to hold the piston pin in place. I couldn't get a good pic of it unfortunately. And where did the crankshaft seals go? Front and rear? Front; Rear; Actually, there is two strips that seems to be a seal, on the rear main cap - last pic. photothumb.db

Just a note, being at EXACT TDC is not critical, think about where the valve is sitting on the camshaft base circle, the opposite side to the cam lobe, so there is a lot of lea way. Just make sure the dizzy rotor is pointing to the correct cylinder.

If your cylinder head is off the block then it is very simple to see which ones to adjust. Do all the valves that are fully seated, mark the ones you have done, turn the engine to seat the other valves and adjust until all valves are gapped. If your cylinder head is on the block then turn the engine over to TDC on #1 (confirm by checking the dizzy rotor at #1) do both inlet and ex valves. Turn engine over to the next firing cylinder (1-5-3-6-2-4) by checking the dizzy rotor button, and repeat. This is not the fastest method but it is methodical, I find it easy to keep track of which I have done. The principle is to have a small gap between the camshaft base circle and the valve for heat expansion. If there is not enough gap then at full engine temp the valves will stay open slightly. If there is too much gap then it will be noisy, and also you will lose some power.

Another one fooled. Totally plastic.

The hot rodders admired my hot rod blinkers...:)

Also, check the Idle Passage Tube, step 18 in Sasha39's post. It has a very small hole, make sure its not blocked.

Its possible that it could also be oil/grease on the drum and/or the brake lining. I have to dismantle the band and give it a good clean every 6-12 months on my '28 series 62.

This is the reason why Sasha39 implied that you cant unbolt the flywheel and pull it off the crankshaft when in the block. I wonder if its still covered under warranty. Piston #6 & #3

A balancing act and sludge today. Even though I have had a V8 block on this engine stand, I just don't trust it with this flathead engine. It is so long with the back of the block extending out to cover the flywheel. Some sludge but looks okay so far.

Removed all the valves, springs, collars, and locks today. One damaged (#6 Ex) valve guide...:( Used a conventional G clap style valve spring compressor with some success, but realised it was more efficient with a 9/16 open ended spanner to lever up the spring to remove the lock from the valve.

Thanks for confirming that Sasha39. I was hoping to bolt it to an engine stand and then disassemble, but might be a bit tricky with the flywheel still attached.

Six months goes so fast in an engine tare down...:) Finally something to work under. Gearbox and clutch assembly off. The flywheel looks like it needs to come off with the crankshaft. Any one know if there is another way?