ArticiferTom

Here Is what I use . Sta-lube with gear oil pump and squeeze tube of double ott for steering .

Thanks Tim , I look at is different than what I believed was on my truck . It being a Graham build Dodge . It has some same design characteristics with the clamp through . Also Thanks to you Graham , Yes anything with those type clamps I think would be later . that's trouble with exhaust being changed over the years and hangers being mostly replaced with what ever universal stuff the garage had . I will probable wing it with what I can estimate . then hope I can bend a pipe close to it .

No , neither pm or email .

There are plenty of threads here on starting engines that have sat . Pre filling the oil system will help get every thing primed . Only requires a hand suction /pump gun and a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe tap connector . Take your time do it right . Keep us posted ...

Sorry to hear about your car . I,ve seen it much to often . You love to show and had when thy look to enthusiastically . I private messaged my email to you . Need stock size of both hanger and clamp , thinking about 1" x 1/8" flat . And any measurement . The pic I have is not available anymore . THANKS Tom

May want to pressurize oil system . Before turning over even by hand . Buy cheap hand suction pump and adapt fitting to and channel plug . Shoot in a couple tubes of oil . You should see the gage rise if your getting in . The babbits will love you for it .

Any one have this type tailpipe clamp . Can please get me measurements to reproduce for myself . Is on 31 Dodge truck ,assume other will have .

This may help .

Yours looks same as mine , must be broke off below cap . See attached . Next disconnect power and loosen nut on bottom . This will allow rods to slip up and expose under horn button .

Can we see under side of steering wheel ? Looks like handle broke off . You have a standard clum switch . Should have number on tin . But screws look like six . Hot , horn , low , high , parking , and tail . Option is take jumper from hot ( maybe negative 6 ) number one or battery and touch each to see what it lights .

Gives us some pics here . We can help if we know what lights and levels are showing . there is a single contact bulb in mine for parking light ????Show clum switch if you have . Tom

lower leveler 8 oclock is Hi ,7 Low, 6 off, 5 Parking if available .

Your Welcome , I know I saw repos of similar in his shop this Spring and some originals . Most where Chrysler but should cross to other Mopars . Get him circle bolt dia and other measurements .

Try Jay

See if this helps is 9150 .

I seen these two cars drug out this week . Ask farmer said he helping friend settle estate . PO was going to rod two door started and use four door as donor ,I guess . I think four would be great survivor . Looks like original paint and says it runs . Was last inspected in 1991 NJ . there located NE pa. I do not know values or how they want to sell or any thing . But if I can help save and preserve these , I'll Help .

I rechecked float was fine ,and tried again same result . Removed and but Zenith back on running after 15 seconds of crank . Emailed builder last week, have not heard back . Will try removing and sealing myself if nothing this week . Question for you Paul or Jon . What is this hole in throat opposite idle slit ? And threaded brass plug on same intake side ( yellow circled ) ? Does it have anything to do with idle circuit ? Thanks Again Tom .

If there like Detroit type universals, it is actually a dust cover . To keep dirt out of joint . Most are found over greased . And it is a suede material as you described . Most where sewn and had laces of clips or eyelets for leather shoelaces . And ends had heavy tie wire in sewn seam to fix to groove on either end of joint .

Go about twenty threads down . I am working on a DRT carb also . Even if yours is RJH some good info given there .

You are seeing bottom , the top had numerous rust throughs . And the tank had it first Evapo -Rust treatment already . Here is cleaning pic .

I know what you mean this is mine being scraped out hole in top . I then used electrolyze on it follow by Evapo-rust chemical . I think PO tried to coat inside .

Miles, Aa-ha! That I did not know .

If it still holds fuel you have a better that most tank . Show some pics of . Mine was rotted through top and baffles and pic up tube loose . I cut top out for rectangle patch to cover all holes . Scrapped and de-rusted insides . Then took to local shop ,had loose parts fixed and top welded on . They even solder near end where there over heating damaged . I opted for no coating . Instead use non-ethanol fuel with Marine grade Stabile with Vapor technology . No rust in last two years .

Great , I struck out with Jay . Some of vendor books show what looks like a 70" modern replacement . I have seen universal cable , cut to fit , some where . Must find if you have a shell . That Speedycables co in UK has some nice stuff . If end are metric should match up . I do think engine has any thing to do with cables as your hooking to transmission and North East gauge . Only difference would be in trans speed drive gear designed for Kilometers . I am right ? Henry , can you tell buy when you drove it ?

Henry attached pic of mine . Yeah! had to crawl under and disconnect , must love these trucks LOL . Looks like flag and square ends and 60" length .