ArticiferTom

I had same problem . Coated metal with blue RTV let set up in pits . Added more with hose and clamp with two wire . Worked first time all four connections .

Thanks you Dave . Attached are some pics should help . One thing forgot is thickness after reread . As you can see is nothing special . All measures are decimal inches .

Varnishing looks great . Does it seem to hold well to wire and bars ? I am curious if diode will hold up . Thought heat sink was require under diode mount . Keep use posted . Maybe some non-contact thermal reads ,while under load ,needed . Keep us posted .

Yes , That is a pic from Glenn's truck only 300 serial number earlier than mine ,but less molested over years . Yes , the hoses are for aftermarket heater added . Mine has the taps on engine and coolant line return . Unit was removed . I have a identical one to Glenn's but not installed , yet . Do not real use in Winter and find with windows closed and open floor boards , plenty of heat migrates . I'll do some checking on size of cable and see if we can find . maybe that most mopars are same end from that era .

Henry , I think every thing looks , layout perfect . I never noticed scale variation as needle rises and opens as fall closes ,until seeing your layout . Only note is you missed a hole at bottom for fuel to drain back out if flooded . I will pull mine to get you diameter of over all . What else do you need ?

Hope your well also .

My mistake Paul, it was not venturi but stand pipe and choke cone . Venturi is part of cast . Work delayed To hot today ,granddaughters 18mt and 28 mts coming to play in pool with pop . LOL

THANKS Paul and Jon Ok , pulled plug and was dry . Loosened flare nut to carb , good fuel pressure . Pulled the carb off . Found about 1/4" dia puddle or grit .in bowl . Removed pump piston clean . Removed pump adj. screw w/ spring , low speed idle screw w spring and flushed with cleaner some dirt but worst was brass shave or drilling's . Not sure which orifice it came from . Also to out low speed jet and flushed . A couple notes . Accel pump seems to pic up from bottom thur a ball valve coming to a junction at end adj screw . From there goes to bottom hole in piston well and up to metered carb throat jet and lasting has opening for extra to bleed back into bowl . that question answered . Blowing air and cleaner down low speed adj screw hole did not show it coming out bottom ,in a spray . But was going some where, so figure it is to what they call the low speed well behind that jet, which may also tied to main jet with it's needle . MAYBE . Will try tomorrow to make something to blow or suck across slit of idle low speed to throat opening while having fluid in bowl to see if can create the venture affect that draws on fuel . If can show that will hook back up . What do you think guys , any other suggestions . I do not want to mess with pulling low speed long tube jet . Maybe warrantee issue or worst . It was new as other was broken by PO . Also new well jet and low speed adj screw and choke spring were installed . Tom PS must re check float bowl was full though .

Here a pic how it routed thur engine mount , up cowl ,strapped bend to center hole in and up dash gage panel . Do you have any of it I have only seen the universal internal cables available to cut down to size needed . The shell and connectors will be harder . I remember something about internal seal to keep fluid from working up to gage .

Thanks Jon . Yes had professional rebuild with new tube , cone and venturi . Jon, how does acell pump function ??? On draw back assume it pulls from bowl . Is there a check valve to prevent it going back , but up to carb . Or is it pushed back to both , to ret it of extra fuel . The summer / winter screw limiting to carb . My pump seal seems to have spot where it loses it seal , because of stroke angle . Then fuel gets to back of seal and splashes out on return stroke . Hope that make sense .

Thanks Paul . Want to get back to more original look to vehicle . It is a driver that I display at shows . Your description is exactly how I always started it . I did note , choking and pedal did not help . However was wrong in my thinking on idle screw , something I remember reading before . Will try closing . Also must check if plugs are getting wet . I try to get out today , Heat is bit of a bugger for me , living on oxygen .

Only being a novice car guy . Looking for some suggestions . I changed my carb form a good running universal Zenith . To rebuild oem brass bowl updraft ,on '31 Dodge pu . Does not even burp or spit trying to start . Although this carb is not oem to trucks it has same 196 ci engine as Dodge cars . Other some what related problem when pumping throttle short exterior accelerator pump splashes out back , leaking around leather seal . Thinking of temporally disconnecting arm for now . Hole is open to carb can see small squirting in back of carb ,when just pumping ,prior to install tested. Bowl was partial filled with syringe to do . Any leather seal , work arounds ?? Does Not show signs of flooding or smell of fuel out tail , which is a little hard because of accelerator pump issue . I opened idle from 3/4 to one turn max listed . Note only cranked 5 times about 20 seconds each time to guard starter . Choking and pumping had no effect . Should I go more on idle screw . Squirt fuel direct in thorough air clean port ? How ? That idle screw is only adjustment ,except accelerator Summer /Winter screw set . And idle linkage speed screw . Truck has always been a good easy start and cranks strong . Pic of set up .

Looks great . Mine looks like aluminum black background like you did and red needle . Was pita to get needle to move . Pinched in glass when tighten . Used 1/8 cord gasket material between glass and face and 1/16" on back . Problem was a fact of wear and rivets loose so arm /float weight droops , jamming .

http://www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.pdf More info on setting up .

His is tank mounted gauge , like mine pic here . I send him a couple pics . What a pain to check . Bet that engineer was cursed a few times .

Your Welcome . flip that butterfly over if it has a 10 on it it from a Carter brass bowl type carb . If not , I still think it is ,some where not marked . I know nothing about insides on Detroit's . Keep use posted , Good luck Tom

How are you setting timing . If you get running at all adjust that first . You'll need a good ear or vacuum gage to do both . Both need rto be revisited as you get closer to optimum . Vacuum adjusting does better job compensating for lash and wear in distributor .

Maybe even solder shut . Not a lot heat there ,when running . Since you need other parts, maybe a e-bay carcass donner .

That flaking is the varnish insulation . Armature may have over heated only testing will tell . You can try it nothing really to lose of if have a motor shop they can test and reinsulate . If run and overheated and wire move can short out . Judging by heat shrink insulation on coil wire , it's had work done . Love the lock/ adjust screw system of it .

That's exactly what I was talking about . As it was being discussed if it was same car ,as wording below could barely be seen by some and not at all by others .

No, no No … Do not mean you did, I am talking look at fifth pic down . You all were talking about trying to read dirty car door . I think the photo had the white Dodge 8 added in over top to highlight it . And in fact every thing is covered in lots of drive dirt . Did not mean to offend, as I see no seam gap of door , as in pics above . Maybe my eyes are bad !

I think you'all may need glasses .LOL. The DODGE 8 was the photo shopped on . You can see it clean and has no line vertically through the second D of Dodge at door seam .

Lube back side splines and tap back on .Look for burrs . Then pull again . If you heat do not use to much to cause color . As a FYI . Remove your electric switch ( CLUM ) on bottom of steering by loosening nut on shaft bottom . Then guard with your live . Replacements do not exist and few come up for sale . The wire at bottom go up to horn button and are usually bad . Test it should ground out , on button push . Bad one ,trip fuses or blow horn when turning . Keep up good work . Tom

Yes, Diode will work better then cut-out . Maybe should say safer . Cut -outs , I read , are prone to sometime fail close thus bleeding battery power back to generator causing the small wires between to heat up like hot plate coil and caused fires . This is why you always watch the amp gage after shutting down engine to make sure contacts opened . If closed will show . draw or discharge . The amp gage is a great tool of diagnosis on your engine . Dropping needle to zero could mean bad fuse , wiring , connection or opening ignition coil , sometimes intermittently . The small size container or Delco cutouts make the diode heat sinking harder . So as said above most are custom jobs unlike Fords being made as off shelf . You will find these kits in Ford restor parts books and maybe ebay , quit cheap . Macungie and Hershey are around corner both should have . I have a kit ready if mine gives up the ghost ...

Please . You must always have battery in circuit . It affects how the generator charges . You risk it going over charge and ruining armature . I have heard they can go wild ,as high as 40 volts . Newer regulators adjust generator out put like third brush and monitor it on amperage with constant voltage rate . These beast charge based on voltage . One reason battery service was so important in the day . I put one of those electronic voltage regulators (EVR)'s on mine this Spring . It is internal and working great . No more under or over charge conditions or dim lights . Good job 26 .